I have started making 2-strokes again because the Grubee ones are pretty good. This one is a 66cc Grubee Skyhawk in a Schwinn Alloy with Nexus 3spd hub. The Nexus 3 spd hub has a spoke flange that just allows ( the clearance is about 0.02mm) the standard sprocket clamp to fit it but the centre hole has to be drilled out for it to fit. Fortunately my 54mm drill leaves me some play so I can get the sprocket aligned to minimise up & down movement of the sprocket teeth.
BTW has anyone ever been able to mount a sprocket so there is absolutely no variance in chain taughness/slackness when the wheel is turned through one revolution? I haven't ever managed that on either a motor chain sprocket or a pedal chain because the chainrings are never perfectly round, I found that out when I scanned a few and imported the images into AutoCAD and tried drawing circles around the teeth.
This 2009 model Schwinn has a really beautiful metallic paint job as well as great looking welds. The frame colour is metallic light teal & dark teal and I got the tank colour computer matched by flattening the bit of fender I cut away and feeding it into the colour analysis computer. It's not quite right but next time I'll darken it a bit and get it perfect. I use high density foam strip that has adhesive on one side and fits beautifully into the channel on underside of tank. This lets me tighten it securely without over-stressing the tank holding studs. Works great on curved top tubes like on a cruiser. Also use M3 bolts and locnuts on chain guard and fenders because those always vibrate loose and break their brackets without secure fixings.
I've noticed that this 66cc drinks fuel - I used about 2.5 litres of mixture over 60 kms which is pretty terrible. I hope it improves as the motor wears in. Anyone know why this might be?
I never thought I would use the 2-strokes again after my terrible experiences with ZBox ones but the Grubee guy offers me a 3 month warranty and they seem to have corrected a lot of things using M8 studs for cylinder & head with nuts that don't loosen. Also larger exhaust studs and pretty good chains.
You need to be pretty strong to pull the clutches in on these new motors but that might ease a bit over time.
Schwinn have discontinued all their classic Californian Cantilever Cruiser Frames for 2010 except the all steel Deluxe 7spd and that makes things very difficult for me cos the alloy ones are the perfect host for the 4-strokes and very good hosts for the 2-stroke. I like how they come with steel fenders and a great saddle and those tapered steel forks are actually very twangy and great on bumps. This years Schwinns have flat box steel forks (blade forks they call them) that are nowhere near as good and are totally rigid with no play at all. The top tubes won't fit a tank either cos they are like the Nirve cruiser and they have silly bottle holders and stuff on them that make motorising almost impossible. I don't think the makers ride these bikes much. I like the Alloy Schwinns much more than the big steel D7 even though the D7 looks spectacular. With a suspended saddle post the rigid alloy is every bit as comfy as the steel with springer forks and they are so much lighter. In hindsight I think a 700C wheel gives a much better ride on a 2-stroke and you can cruise faster at lower revs but they cost more cos you have to buy saddle and fenders.
Here are some pics of the build. I had to use Map Gas on the exhaust to bend it quite a bit and that discoloured it but no great harm done.
BTW has anyone ever been able to mount a sprocket so there is absolutely no variance in chain taughness/slackness when the wheel is turned through one revolution? I haven't ever managed that on either a motor chain sprocket or a pedal chain because the chainrings are never perfectly round, I found that out when I scanned a few and imported the images into AutoCAD and tried drawing circles around the teeth.
This 2009 model Schwinn has a really beautiful metallic paint job as well as great looking welds. The frame colour is metallic light teal & dark teal and I got the tank colour computer matched by flattening the bit of fender I cut away and feeding it into the colour analysis computer. It's not quite right but next time I'll darken it a bit and get it perfect. I use high density foam strip that has adhesive on one side and fits beautifully into the channel on underside of tank. This lets me tighten it securely without over-stressing the tank holding studs. Works great on curved top tubes like on a cruiser. Also use M3 bolts and locnuts on chain guard and fenders because those always vibrate loose and break their brackets without secure fixings.
I've noticed that this 66cc drinks fuel - I used about 2.5 litres of mixture over 60 kms which is pretty terrible. I hope it improves as the motor wears in. Anyone know why this might be?
I never thought I would use the 2-strokes again after my terrible experiences with ZBox ones but the Grubee guy offers me a 3 month warranty and they seem to have corrected a lot of things using M8 studs for cylinder & head with nuts that don't loosen. Also larger exhaust studs and pretty good chains.
You need to be pretty strong to pull the clutches in on these new motors but that might ease a bit over time.
Schwinn have discontinued all their classic Californian Cantilever Cruiser Frames for 2010 except the all steel Deluxe 7spd and that makes things very difficult for me cos the alloy ones are the perfect host for the 4-strokes and very good hosts for the 2-stroke. I like how they come with steel fenders and a great saddle and those tapered steel forks are actually very twangy and great on bumps. This years Schwinns have flat box steel forks (blade forks they call them) that are nowhere near as good and are totally rigid with no play at all. The top tubes won't fit a tank either cos they are like the Nirve cruiser and they have silly bottle holders and stuff on them that make motorising almost impossible. I don't think the makers ride these bikes much. I like the Alloy Schwinns much more than the big steel D7 even though the D7 looks spectacular. With a suspended saddle post the rigid alloy is every bit as comfy as the steel with springer forks and they are so much lighter. In hindsight I think a 700C wheel gives a much better ride on a 2-stroke and you can cruise faster at lower revs but they cost more cos you have to buy saddle and fenders.
Here are some pics of the build. I had to use Map Gas on the exhaust to bend it quite a bit and that discoloured it but no great harm done.
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
