I'm not sure how fast I'm going, on level or slight uphill I can get maximum speed but the digital speedometer isn't correct, when I walk with the bike the speedometer was showing 6 mi per hour so that isn't working right. It feels about 30 or a bit faster. I've seen it saying 60! I took some pictures of that grinding, the clutch, etc. It is much smoother, the gearbox is running cooler - the picture of the gearbox cover inside shows the grinding. I don't know if it is still touching the cover or not, but it is sounding smoother, using the white lithium grease and the bike will go fast now. White Lithium Grease - from an old can - The new Lithium Grease I got is red and says it's for disc brakes. Didn't mention the color of the grease on the outside.. That grab and surging feeling is still there with the start up, and if I try to start up a bit slow, or uphill, then the motor really sounds like it has to work and the ride is bumpy as the clutch is engaging, what I would like is a way to get that start up smoother, with the engine not sounding like it is working so hard, with me peddling easier and more feeling balanced, and also as long as I'm dreaming bike has a fast running top end, as it is now, the top speed is more like there might be a fuel starving or filter clogging at max, but otherwise the motor runs great, with the idle very slow and quiet. Your description of Labored and Juttered The gearbox is quieter, but still very loud to me. From the pictures - there was grease in the clutch, I cleaned off the pads and reinstalled. This only had grease, no oil in it, but it was not white lithium grease. I wonder what that grinding is from, the pictures show the housing damage. This is fun project, bell housings that you can hold in one hand.
The first picture is the gearbox cover, second shows the clutch and that keylock pin that I couldn't get out, third pic shows how the muffler exhaust actually touches the bike, I have worked on the motor mount and have fastened the motor more forward, running 1/4 inch bolts all the way through, as the existing metric were stripping out.
Irish John- I got that clutch bell housing off, there was a sleeve that I had to pry off once I got the screw loose. I held a fin from the flywheel to be able to unscrew that first screw, it was not very tight at all, and I put loctite back on that screw when I put it back together. I tried to see how to get the clutch actually off, but I just cleaned it up, took these pictures and put it back together, because I could not get that pin out that fits in the slot that seems to hold it all together, it looks like it was hammered in there tight. I would like to be able to remove the clutch pads and isn't there something that is lubed in the back there? This bike has a 46 tooth sprocket. 56 tooth seems like it would give a better ride while climbing hills.