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fetor56
Guest
Let us know your thoughts John when u start riding this build around....maybe,just maybe,it'll work & ride exceptionally well.
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Irish John
Guest
That's a nice thought but it won't happen Fetor. This kit is too wide and can't even go far enough over to the right to get a true chain line. I took the engine out today to try and move it further over to the right but it was already as far as it could go even though it didn't look it. I had to change the nut on the throttle cable barrel because the idiots who semi-assemble these things ALWAYS put the nut on the wrong side of the barrel which means the throttle can't go through far enough to idle. Because the throttle at the carby end is inaccessible up under the top tubes it's an engine removal job to get the barrel off and put the nut on the other side the cable barrel holder where it should heve been in the first place. Then horror of horrors - two of the bolts that secure the engine to the tray sheared off as I tightened them - those engine base bolts are the ones that are 2 mm too long and need extra washers so they don't hit the end of the bolt holes in the motor. Now I'll have to get them drilled out in a machine shop and if the don't come out cleany it's a helicoil job or an engine write off.
I wasn't using Aussie steel bolts because the guy I'm doing it for just wanted the kit assembled. I used Aussie steel bolts and nuts for the sliders because I never use anything else on those.
The bolts just sheared like cheese.
This kit is actually pretty unbuildable but with the 3 piece crank that is being rushed through production right now it would at least sit lower in the frame but the drive line of the chain will never be right because the drive sprocket needs to go further over the right. There is a way to move the drive sprocket further out along the shaft about 2mm using a washer but that's all and it needs to go over about 10mm min. What the kit needs is a wider tray I reckon but the whole shebang is too wide to begin with.
What a dog's dinner the whole project has turned into. I feel depressed an a failure but as I have built 12 of the older kits and got them really good I reckon I have done everything possible to make this drivetrain work. I got about 1.5 kms last evening and the chain jumped the tensioner wheel. I haven't thought of a way to make the tensioner wheel line up with the chain but i could use a spring loaded motorbike one maybe but I can't really be bothered. This kit has a lot of inherent problems and never use the chinese bolts on the engine base - in fact don't use chinese bolts anywhere.
I wasn't using Aussie steel bolts because the guy I'm doing it for just wanted the kit assembled. I used Aussie steel bolts and nuts for the sliders because I never use anything else on those.
The bolts just sheared like cheese.
This kit is actually pretty unbuildable but with the 3 piece crank that is being rushed through production right now it would at least sit lower in the frame but the drive line of the chain will never be right because the drive sprocket needs to go further over the right. There is a way to move the drive sprocket further out along the shaft about 2mm using a washer but that's all and it needs to go over about 10mm min. What the kit needs is a wider tray I reckon but the whole shebang is too wide to begin with.
What a dog's dinner the whole project has turned into. I feel depressed an a failure but as I have built 12 of the older kits and got them really good I reckon I have done everything possible to make this drivetrain work. I got about 1.5 kms last evening and the chain jumped the tensioner wheel. I haven't thought of a way to make the tensioner wheel line up with the chain but i could use a spring loaded motorbike one maybe but I can't really be bothered. This kit has a lot of inherent problems and never use the chinese bolts on the engine base - in fact don't use chinese bolts anywhere.
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That's for sure. I've replaced all the bolts that came with my grubee stage 3 kit even all the ones on the rear wheel sprocket, they seemed cheap and besides they were too short to make assembleing the sandwiche anything less than a nightmare. I'm disappointed to hear what problems this kit has caused you. Even if you got a different plate, or redrilled some holes to remount the one more to the right, it is excessively wide. I emailed Don once to ask how much wider the 4g was compared to the stage3 and he told me 2 cm's, but the stage 3 I have is less than 2 inches out from the motor. Maybe chinnese cm's are bigger than normal cm's
abikerider
Member
That's a nice thought but it won't happen Fetor. This kit is too wide and can't even go far enough over to the right to get a true chain line.
Exactly how wide is it. Can you give us a measurement from the engine case to the outside of the cover. I'd like to see how it compares to the other trannies. Thanks.
Hi Irish John,
I guess I can now comment on the EZM kit without punishment because you mentioned EZM in an earlier post.
We are sad because we thought the Grubee G4 was the fix for earlier inventory of HS & Honda GX series motors. When we learned the G4 doesn't fit the ealier motor we decided to produce and sell the EZM automatic drive system for the many with problematic earlier kits.
Unlike the G4 we considered motor & drive system width an important issue. Our automatic drive system is only 2.125" wide and when added to the 8" width of the motor & rope starter the width is approx 10.125". We also tilted the drive system upward at the rear to gain more pedal crank clearance.
Our kits use 8.8 grade 6 MM bolts to affix the drive system to the motor and to fasten the motor to the mounting plate. FYI you can use 1/4" X 20 American bolts to repair the stripped out motor bosses. 1/4" X 20 is larger and only need the hole to be tapped to fit the slightly larger American bolts.
The EZM automatic system is still in testing [something the Chinese don't consider important], however the tests are so positive we are in the process of accepting bids on the fabrication work. My personal EZM automatic has over 400 test miles logged without any problems. Production schedules appear to fall between 30 and 45 days. We know we won't be able to meet the initial demand, but hope to increase production ASAP.
Because of our design, the motor can be easily aligned with the rear sproket. On all of the current test bikes the motor was mounted in the center of the mounting bracket slots with great success. We also designed an addtional mounting location using the outward bearing carrier to mount to the seat post for additional motor support.
Of the several EZM automatic tests we conducted, drive ratios were also worked out and we tried ratios from 14.68 X 1 to 16.43 X 1. NO PEDALING needed! Using a 26" Schwinn "Del Mar" bicycle the numbers are .......14.68 X 1 is 36.8 MPH @ 7000 RPMs, and 16.43 X 1 = 32.9 MPH @ 7000 RPMs.
The EZM automatic appears to smooth out the differences between the Honda & HS motors and end up with almost identical speeds. The HS motor seems to pull harder at lower speeds whereas the Honda has a slightly higher top end.
The EZM automatic will soon be offered as a stand-alone product via authorized EZM dealers and hopefully the cost will remain close to the manual version.
Have fun,
I guess I can now comment on the EZM kit without punishment because you mentioned EZM in an earlier post.
We are sad because we thought the Grubee G4 was the fix for earlier inventory of HS & Honda GX series motors. When we learned the G4 doesn't fit the ealier motor we decided to produce and sell the EZM automatic drive system for the many with problematic earlier kits.
Unlike the G4 we considered motor & drive system width an important issue. Our automatic drive system is only 2.125" wide and when added to the 8" width of the motor & rope starter the width is approx 10.125". We also tilted the drive system upward at the rear to gain more pedal crank clearance.
Our kits use 8.8 grade 6 MM bolts to affix the drive system to the motor and to fasten the motor to the mounting plate. FYI you can use 1/4" X 20 American bolts to repair the stripped out motor bosses. 1/4" X 20 is larger and only need the hole to be tapped to fit the slightly larger American bolts.
The EZM automatic system is still in testing [something the Chinese don't consider important], however the tests are so positive we are in the process of accepting bids on the fabrication work. My personal EZM automatic has over 400 test miles logged without any problems. Production schedules appear to fall between 30 and 45 days. We know we won't be able to meet the initial demand, but hope to increase production ASAP.
Because of our design, the motor can be easily aligned with the rear sproket. On all of the current test bikes the motor was mounted in the center of the mounting bracket slots with great success. We also designed an addtional mounting location using the outward bearing carrier to mount to the seat post for additional motor support.
Of the several EZM automatic tests we conducted, drive ratios were also worked out and we tried ratios from 14.68 X 1 to 16.43 X 1. NO PEDALING needed! Using a 26" Schwinn "Del Mar" bicycle the numbers are .......14.68 X 1 is 36.8 MPH @ 7000 RPMs, and 16.43 X 1 = 32.9 MPH @ 7000 RPMs.
The EZM automatic appears to smooth out the differences between the Honda & HS motors and end up with almost identical speeds. The HS motor seems to pull harder at lower speeds whereas the Honda has a slightly higher top end.
The EZM automatic will soon be offered as a stand-alone product via authorized EZM dealers and hopefully the cost will remain close to the manual version.
Have fun,
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Irish John
Guest
That's a nice thought but it won't happen Fetor. This kit is too wide and can't even go far enough over to the right to get a true chain line.
Exactly how wide is it. Can you give us a measurement from the engine case to the outside of the cover. I'd like to see how it compares to the other trannies. Thanks.
You can read more about the build on:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?t=22467
The G4 plus engine is 11.5" wide from outer edge of pull starter to outer edge of gearbox case (i.e external overall width) as opposed to the old Grubee gearbox rigs which are 9".
That extra 2.5" makes all the difference in the world and it really got off to a bad start on the width problem alone. It's a bit like Sir Clive Sinclair's C5 electric tricycle except that Sir Clive had already invented the electronic calculator and had a reputation for innovation. The C5 was a coffin of a trike just waiting to go under a truck and the G4 is similar in that it is too wide to get through the Suez or Panama Canals and you'll have to go the long way around the Capes!
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fetor56
Guest
Will International sales be included in this offer?The EZM automatic will soon be offered as a stand-alone product via authorized EZM dealers and hopefully the cost will remain close to the manual version.
I don't get it what's the difference between the manual and automatic. Is the automatic and centrifual clutch as opposed to what was the manual? I remember in the 1st ezm video he could rev the engine without it engageing. What kind of clutch was it or was it an engager like the dreaded grubee?
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