grubee kit installed below seat :D

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by Frogz, Jul 21, 2009.

  1. Frogz

    Frogz New Member

    since i didnt have a proper sized bike(neither of the bikes i had :( oh well) that would allow installation of a 66/80 grubee in the diamond i ended up installing the engine under the seat on the top bar(the back is lower than the front so it has a tiny triangle) cant mount the tank obviously but i will probably buy a shelf kit and put it behind the seat/above the tire
    got a mustard bottle as a improv gas tank for testing, it works pretty good, may have a problem as its not vented(ie, the engine has problems running at times) will try to fix with a pin***** hole in the bottom to vent it
    or maybe i'll just get another bike entirely
    ordered on friday, received on monday from uh...whatshisname... devrou on ebay, $160 shipped grubee gt-4 66 cc mfg in april 09

    btw, even with clutch on, its hard to pedal(like, alot more work than just bike alone) will this clear up with time or do i need to adjust/lube anything specific?

    also, when it starts it doesnt ALWAYS run, like, if you keep pedaling it'll sound like its running but not offer any actual power to the wheels(clutch im guessing) but when the clutch is removed, the engine doesnt keep running, its also like low rpms(it runs faster, atleast like 5k rpms by sound? and provides actual power when its actually started) removed the cable from the carb to move it around the frame a bit, hope i put it in right haha, throttle isnt the most responsive but it obviously is getting more gas although not really changing speed much(the engine just runs different) so it IS doing somthing when i pull the throttle

    as for the choke, it runs when not choked at all and fully choked(although somewhere in the middle has the best chance at working) it starts with any clutch position as well, any advice?

    so basically to summerise, its hard to pedal when clutched, rpms are too stable when throttle is pulled, and i have NO idea what to do with the choke

    i'll get pics soon(i forgot to bring my camera with to transfer pics to pc)

    edit: btw, at 16:1 ratio of semi synthetic 2 cycle oil, also it races when clutched(need to adjust idle im guessing)

    also is useful although im sure its been posted before
    it accepts fractions of a gallon(ie, 0.52 gallons for a 2 liter bottle)

    btw, want a laugh?
    when i installed it at first, didnt hook up the kill switch
    so i had to pull the spark plug(i shoulda pulled the blue/black wire huh? it discharged into my hand 3 or 4 times before i let go :D
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2009

  2. Frogz

    Frogz New Member

    and btw, before you say to use the search function, im already there
    2nd post reserved for pics :D
    edit: ok, the search function sucks...
    so in summery, i need help with: my bike is hard to pedal when clutch is not engaged(clutch factory adjusted)
    i also need help with: bike doesnt always start properly although i suspect this is my fault for being a newbie with the choke, it dies when i either a: disengage clutch or b: stop pedaling(ie, it isnt powering itself, only forward momentum allowing it to fire)
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2009
  3. caprirs302

    caprirs302 New Member

    The same thing happened to me and I threw it into a bucket for three years. When I finally pulled it out and put it back on a bike I found that I was not getting any spark. I tested the magneto with a 12 volt wire tester, it was fine. I couldn't check the CDI so I just took the next step and bought a new spark plug. When I popped it in the engine fired right up like it was nobody's business. There didn't appear to be anything wrong with the original plug, IU guess it was just bad. I don't know the plug numbers from auto zone, but it is a motorcycle plug and you could definitely search for the part #'s here.
  4. Frogz

    Frogz New Member

    ....i cant edit older posts???
    not very dialup friendly btw but its a nice high res pic :)

    The administrator has specified that you can only edit messages for 1440 minutes after you have posted. This limit has expired, so you must contact the administrator to make alterations on your message.
  5. caprirs302

    caprirs302 New Member

    How is there clearance with your engine so high? Doesn't the drive chain hit the frame?
  6. Frogz

    Frogz New Member

    yes it hits the frame but not enough to seriously effect it(it barely touches it when running)
    gotta ride with a slightly wider stance than normal but it isnt so bad,
    had to drill a hole through the frame and idler pully because it kept flipping upside down on me but now with current config, it runs pretty good
    it ran good yesterday before i fixed the pully but when the chain pulls off when in use, it isnt too fun to have to get off and put it back on every few minutes
    but ya, a bolt through the frame/pully solved that no problem
    i need to get a chain breaker tool and make it a little tighter(possibly not needed with how the pully is pretty much touching the rear sprocket or even if i add a second pully to the top to tighten it
    but as is, i can hit 30+(as the engine is still being broken in, a little worried about fully opening throttle
    lubed the entire engine with some radioshack lubricant(its thick and supposidly doesnt attract dirt/dust/grime, think its silicon based)
    this engine rocks :D
    although still kinda hard to pedal but unless its an alignment issue, dont think it'll really get any looser without more breaking in
    lost a few bolts and replaced them with 6 mm standard thread metric bolts from menards(btw, anyone else think the "bolts" that come with the kit suck? its a nut on a threaded rod...not a actual bolt...)

    i'll get more pics when i get a chance, anyone need anything specific in high resolution while im at it?
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2009
  7. you might have a airleak,put a o-ring in the carb to intake and use silicone around intake.
    adjust your clutch,it only should start with clutch engaged,maybe thats why its hard to pedal,maybe your clutch is not disengaging and might be engaged all the time.
    fix the airleak then adjust your idle. and your chain looks loose.

    be careful riding that thing with that engine mounted like that.
  8. clay

    clay Member

    dude thats a girls bike, you may as well be riding a sportster
  9. Frogz

    Frogz New Member

    re: girls bike
    sadly, no, it isnt, alot of newer bikes have a lower top tube now :/
    ironically, my stepfather has a pink ACTUAL girls bike that the engine would fit perfectly

    donno how much of a problem this will be but the chain is cutting into the pipe holding the wheel on haha, oh well, i need a new bike anyway
  10. Will Snow

    Will Snow Member


    I think Clay is right, that is a girls bike. You are right about the top tube slanting down on a boys bikes, but not that low.

    You really should back off a little. Until you know things are at lease close to right. You could get seriously injured and that really spoils the fun.

    Might want to find a bike so you can mount the motor lower.

    Check the chain alignment ( chain is running straight from back sprocket to front drive sprocket and not off to one side ). Check rear sprocket to be sure it is well centered ( chain should not get tight and loose as the wheel turns ). You may not be able to get it perfect, try to get as close as you can. Back sprocket should be running straight and not wobble. Chain also should not be hitting anything. Where the engine is mounted maybe part of the problem. Need to move it away from the frame but yet keep the alignment straight

    When you pull the clutch lever in you should be able to roll the bike forward with no resistance with the engine off. Adjusting the clutch is problably needed.

    Could not tell from the picture. Is the carb level? If not, try to level it as close as you can.

    If you are not sure how to do some of these things, ask this forum. someone will probably walk you through it, step by step.

    These are just a few suggestions. you may get some better ideas from others.

    Wish you well and BE CAREFUL!.

    Will Snow
  11. Frogz

    Frogz New Member

    heh just got a new frame on craigs list for $20, its pretty, looks kinda old
    and been in walmart recently? guys bikes look like this
    guess it IS a girl's bike after all, and it was recalled
    why do girls get the pretty forest green and guys ugly red?
  12. Frogz

    Frogz New Member

    4 times now i've had to friken install 9 bolts on this bloody sprocket
    so tedious
    the chain keeps popping off, i think my tensioner is at fault
    upto 3 full links removed from original chain on this incarnation of my bike
    i shoulda ordered more plain white on black stickers, not sticking the best to this bike lol
    $20 on craigs list, missing seat
    stole the seat off a old kids bike of mine(the 1 in the magna equator the engine formerly was on was too fat)
  13. Frogz

    Frogz New Member

    i didnt add any tags to my upload, its only labeled "dscnwhatevernumber.jpg"
    and this was listed as a "related image"
    btw, if i didnt mention it, i want 1!!!
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2009
  14. Frogz

    Frogz New Member

    since my clutch cable broke i had to get a kit at walmart ($5, includes enough for all brakes and gears) i had a few extra cables
    turns out the bike i just bought, the cables were so corroded that it couldnt change gears at all, replaced them with the spare cables from the kit and its working nice, i think i need to adjust my carb though as its taking longer than average to actually produce power(instead of chugging along when cold and not able to self run yet and not provide any power to the wheels) although the ambrient temperature could also be effecting this, oh well, my new bike is fun, although i prefered riding the old "unsafe" green bike
    which was a little lower to the ground, its good once your going but its a pain for stop and go, especially on a cold engine
    blew up a few leds
    wired as... first being a regular diode, then 2 leds in series with it, both were originally operated on 4.5v so maybe 9 or 10 volts would be good to drive them with
    next attempt will be after i measure the peak to peak voltage
    and i'll add a capacitor and resistor(not that this will do any good if i dont know the right value to add, wheres my dmm...)

    i also have a stepper motor from a printer that can produce ACTUAL current(its rated at 5 volts at like an amp to DRIVE it) i've pulled 40+ watts off of it before no problem at roughly 20 volts, perfect for a 12v system
    just gotta figure out a good way to mount it, was thinking about adding a small spocket to it and driving from the chain directly but that wouldnt leave power when not in motion(unless battery is added) not that without directly adding it to the engine i'd be able to do this anyway
    i dont wanna cheap out and use purely battery power, even if this robs it from the engine

    heh actually with how fast the diodes smoked without killing the engine, it probably has power to spare
    although i dont wanna release details just yet, i have a cheap led flashlight that'd be a perfect canidate for standard repeatable mod for nearly all HT engines, its water resistant and looks like a professional bike light to boot
  15. furament

    furament New Member

    ride the pink bike
  16. Frogz

    Frogz New Member

    my chain broke and took the engine with it, ripped it half off my bike when the chain snapped
    had to put a crapload of epoxy to hold the rear mount on, the front mount got slightly screwed up(it lost 1/4 inch of metal on the threads) but its usable
    just rode 5 miles today without a chain(lulz) on my bike to grainger to pick up some number 41 roller chain and some master links(10 feet of chain and 5 extra master links is $40! twice what i paid for the bike itself) but now my bike is back on the road and **** does it feel good, i'll get new pics soon