Hand Brakes
- Thread starter jhendrix
- Start date
machiasmort
Active Member
I'll speak from experience and say, don't rely on just a coaster!
Search the threads and you'll find adaptations for disc breaks! Either way, you'll be logging miles and most important is to keep breaking surfaces clean!
There's a lot of worn out heels on sneakers!
Search the threads and you'll find adaptations for disc breaks! Either way, you'll be logging miles and most important is to keep breaking surfaces clean!
There's a lot of worn out heels on sneakers!
professor
Active Member
I just put a V brake on the back, instead of the caliper that was there (the bike already has a V on front) - huge difference in stopping ability.
Don't even think of using a single brake.
I like V brakes, disc are better because water affects them less.
Riding in the wet yesterday, the dual Vs were fine with a total bike and rider wt. of 250#
Don't even think of using a single brake.
I like V brakes, disc are better because water affects them less.
Riding in the wet yesterday, the dual Vs were fine with a total bike and rider wt. of 250#
professor
Active Member
Um, Jh- V brakes require a post attached to the frame/ fork to work off of, unless you obtain an adaptor. I think an adaptor is available somewhere.
happycheapskate
Active Member
V-brakes are awesome, if using a quality brake, lever, pads, with well lubricated parts.
Try the Cane Creek "direct curve" vbrakes and levers. They are inexpensive and very powerful, and stylish.
Bike Nashbar (www.nashbar.com) sells the set of Jail Brake v-brakes and levers, and a variety of replacement pads for conditions.
Remember, a 26 wheel becomes a 26" brake rotor with two 1" pads. I will ride v-brakes as long as they are available. I like them better than disc brakes for performance and familiarity.
Try the Cane Creek "direct curve" vbrakes and levers. They are inexpensive and very powerful, and stylish.
Bike Nashbar (www.nashbar.com) sells the set of Jail Brake v-brakes and levers, and a variety of replacement pads for conditions.
Remember, a 26 wheel becomes a 26" brake rotor with two 1" pads. I will ride v-brakes as long as they are available. I like them better than disc brakes for performance and familiarity.
Well was wondering if you have run both and what you like better on the V Brake performance-wise? I'm just curious as I currently have a v brake on the front of my bike and am seriously looking at putting a big disc brake on the front. On the other bike I plan on building it already has a drum in the back and a V-Brake on the front and will likely keep it that way using a double brake lever.
happycheapskate
Active Member
Disc brakes are nice, if they are hydraulic. I don't care for the cable ones, esp the walmart/low end ones.
V brakes are cheap because they are "out of style" now but they have pretty much been perfected in the XT and XTR parallel push models from shimano, and the Cane Creek Direct Curve v-brakes with calculated leverage.
Even cheap v-brakes with good pads will have loads of stopping power and work fine. The best upgrade to any v-brake is a good cable set like Odyssey Slic-Cable linear cable housings and teflon inner wires. ($5-15 a cable and housing)
I am using a beach bike with a cheap caliper front brake, but v-brake pads, on sanded sidewalls, and it works passably. I have a coaster brake rear wheel and it is used mostly for a hill control brake/ drag brake. I can skid the tire on dirt or sandy roads, but it does not have as much power as a v-brake. It was improved by using a lower pedal gear.
If I ever change forks I'm going to a v-brake and long v-brake lever.
I've ridden some friends bikes with the cable operated disc brakes. I feel like they required a lot of work by the hands to operate vs the v-brakes, and that they had a "dead" feel. It was easy to tell the amount of brake power used by the bike speed changes, but it felt the same throughout except at the hardest stopping power.
I rode a Cannondale bike once that had a Hayes front disc brake. I almost endoed (flipped over bar) the first time I touched the front brake. It was very powerful. It did have a feeling of modulation (could feel how much tension applied to brake rotor). It was very sensitive though.
Remember that closed loop systems (no reservoir or ventilation) can overheat eventually, causing the brake to drag and finally fully engage until the fluid cools. Most bicycle disc brake systems are cable operated or closed loop. The best ones have finger knobs that let you loosen or tighten them while riding to prevent this problem, like the Magura hydraulic rim brakes levers.
V brakes are cheap because they are "out of style" now but they have pretty much been perfected in the XT and XTR parallel push models from shimano, and the Cane Creek Direct Curve v-brakes with calculated leverage.
Even cheap v-brakes with good pads will have loads of stopping power and work fine. The best upgrade to any v-brake is a good cable set like Odyssey Slic-Cable linear cable housings and teflon inner wires. ($5-15 a cable and housing)
I am using a beach bike with a cheap caliper front brake, but v-brake pads, on sanded sidewalls, and it works passably. I have a coaster brake rear wheel and it is used mostly for a hill control brake/ drag brake. I can skid the tire on dirt or sandy roads, but it does not have as much power as a v-brake. It was improved by using a lower pedal gear.
If I ever change forks I'm going to a v-brake and long v-brake lever.
I've ridden some friends bikes with the cable operated disc brakes. I feel like they required a lot of work by the hands to operate vs the v-brakes, and that they had a "dead" feel. It was easy to tell the amount of brake power used by the bike speed changes, but it felt the same throughout except at the hardest stopping power.
I rode a Cannondale bike once that had a Hayes front disc brake. I almost endoed (flipped over bar) the first time I touched the front brake. It was very powerful. It did have a feeling of modulation (could feel how much tension applied to brake rotor). It was very sensitive though.
Remember that closed loop systems (no reservoir or ventilation) can overheat eventually, causing the brake to drag and finally fully engage until the fluid cools. Most bicycle disc brake systems are cable operated or closed loop. The best ones have finger knobs that let you loosen or tighten them while riding to prevent this problem, like the Magura hydraulic rim brakes levers.
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