Happy-Time Magneto Installation Video

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by will_start, Feb 9, 2008.

  1. will_start

    will_start Member

    Hi All,

    here's the link for the impatient readers.


    After much delayed waitings to diagnose my bike,
    and to get it to at least start, I have finally at least got it starting.
    Note, not running properly, but starting...I used a lubricant (INOX, like WD 40)
    as a kick-start. I chatted about using Aero-start elsewhere,
    and after a initial failed start, this stuff got me running right up,
    so my next issue is definitely fuel related...

    The key failure was the magneto. I had no resistance Blue to Black.
    Or open circuit. Same as with leads apart.

    Take note of the 318 reading half way through.
    This is what it should be Blue to Black, and will be my memorial to
    my magneto's validity.

    Something I realised, is that the %$*(~! hole where the electrical wires
    enters the motor, caused about two months worth of bad starts for me.

    My bike came with no plug for this hole, but Warren provided me
    with a plug for the replacement mag, you'll see me hold it up with my fingers.

    I remember doing a engine degrease (water and all),
    and straight after that the bikes performance degraded on a
    gradual down-hill slope.

    I recently installed a new magneto and sealed it with Silicone.
    You'll see the gasket repaired with this as well.
    Along the route of doing the install, I took shots with my Mobile phone
    at key points of the install.

    I did this in my small bedroom as I have no garage, so the red thing is a
    plastic tarp on the floor.

    This gave me still footage to combine into a video.
    Many thanks to all those who gave me advice.

    I took the advice of Papasun, to use business cards to seperate
    the arms of the magneto, and ibdennyak's to use a sealant.
    Its been raining alot here, so this will be key to keeping it running
    in the wet.

    There's davidsis ibdennyak eltatertoto (for vid inspiration),
    anyone else who's answered my questions/given my big mouth ideas advice,
    thanks, this is what makes this site great.

    I think next time I'll use a my pocket digital camera,
    this vid lacks picture quality, but makes up for it with "artistry".

    Anyone hard of sight, run it on smaller size I guess.
    My only feedback so far was "I can't see it clearly".
    I ran it full screen and looks ok to me.


    Any feedback/comments ?
    Any technical faults in my install ?

    You may notice the muffler changes from chrome
    to black (high Temp Black Paint), as this is my original wiring with the Kill switch wired in.
    Notice big chunks of solder.

    Here's how this was wired.

    Red (kill switch) to White (motor)
    Black (kill switch) to Black Motor and Black CDI
    Blue (motor) to Blue CDI.

    I painted the whole bike black, even cables so you have
    to analyse it, to see the colours through the black paint.

    The new wiring has no kill switch, no solder, to simplify trouble shooting.
    I am going to wire in kill switch across blue to black,
    as heard that its better to short than over-load the magneto.

    Stay Positive, It Helps.


    Will Start

    Last edited: Feb 9, 2008

  2. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Any feedback/comments ?....gotta love those BMW's. :)

    Just kiddin man.Your making progress and that's good...nothing worse than standing still with nothing happening. :(
    Please keep us informed as we wanna see u properly mobile,Zoom Zoom. :)
  3. will_start

    will_start Member


    My bike has been more stationary spider home/art statue than reliable transport.
    I've learnt not to ride it work, when its running rough.

    Since getting on here I've learnt alot of self-diagnosis.
    So update:
    I now know I that my bike is bogging out. Which is a fuel issue.

    Course of Action:

    -1. Adjust Idle Screw to 4 turns CCW.
    0. Each time, try it again with the INOX can shown in vid.
    1. So my next course of work is to change the E clip to 2nd top and then lowest position.
    2. Top up the fuel.
    3. Seal the carb with the glass sealant shown in this Vid.
    (is that a bad idea ?)
    4. Change inlet gasket, I got a spare.
    5. Clean muffler and baffle.
    6. try muffler without baffle.
    7. think.

    thanks for feedback.

    Last edited: Feb 9, 2008
  4. Papasaun

    Papasaun Guest

    Good to hear that you are almost ready to ride again. :cool:

    But tell me,,,,,,,, is there an inline fuel filter on your bike? I looked at your woodriff key vid and did not see one.
    clean your tank out and make sure the Carb is clean also.

    Filter in line and the float bowl off,,, turn on the gas and see that it drains thru, (no gunk in the line to slow the flow).

    Back OT: Nice vid and it really shows it step by step for the install.

  5. will_start

    will_start Member

    I can feel the realiability creeping in.
    Mainly because I'm understanding more.

    what does float bowl off mean exactly ?
    I once put on a fuel filter and the bike stopped, altogether.

    Once I get it running, I plan to re-add the filter.
    I have one at the ready. But until it cleanly starts and until it runs properly,
    I'm not adding it again.

    I have done 1 10 litre Can of Fuel, and just started the second,
    which led to the Woodruff and now this vid.

    The carbie is brand new, and I've cleaned the fuel tank out and cleaned
    the internal tank filter.

    ages ago, I filled a hole in the barrel, which I attach a pic of.
    It still seems to have lots of compression,
    so the hole I've been told will have no effect.



    Attached Files:

  6. Papasaun

    Papasaun Guest

  7. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    No problem my friend. I (we) appreciate your appreciation. Just happy to see you are on the way to a healthy bike again. Actually you have confirmed my theory that most of my problems are climate related also. Have to say, my Dax 70 has been pretty bullet proof mechanically. Most of my problems are moisture related. (Will that get me a discount on a Titan, Duane?:grin:)

    Actually, there is one thing you could do for me. With your video expertise, could you flush your old mag down your toilet and post a vid of which way the water swirls? It would save me a trip "down under" to see for myself.

  8. will_start

    will_start Member

    RE: Bolts, Holes, Toilets, Bowls and floats...

    Hey guys,

    The hole stopped at the engine bolt. you can see the bolt
    in the picture, maybe its a fault that will haunt me forever.

    As I could get everything else right, and still have a "hole in my lung".
    (NB Thats a reference to the second song on the vid.)

    However, this motor used to take off in the first 10 Litres of fuel.
    I once clocked at 40km per hour, on a road-side radar detector.
    (I have a speedo to install).

    Papa, thanks for the link, I understand the test now.

    Denny, maybe you could do a special toilet mag vid for me (that made me laugh).
    (Oz Toilets have a small amount of water at the bottom, US toilets fill to the high tide mark, so would be a cross cultural comparison :) )

    I'm going to try get some resistance back into my old coil by removing the coating and wrapping it in wire. I never throw away my old parts, as I can use
    them to study, and ponder over, when its raining, and I can't go out to play.


  9. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Will...have u concidered returning your HT engine for replacement....it's VERY unusual to have a hole in the barrel like that and honestly i don't know how much u could trust it (and the rest of the engine)
    I'm not trying to be an alarmist i'm just thinking of safety.....is it still under warranty?
    Now that u know the do's and don't's swapping over HT's would be relatively easy.
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 9, 2008
  10. Scottm

    Scottm Guest

    Augi, that time lapse in the audio makes it look like you're gonna crash into the house. I love the sound of that motor. It would be so awesome to just jump on a MB and be on the beach. Just think a few more months and there will be a High Tide of Motoredbikes on that beach.
    Will, that's a great video and sound track. Good work! You are going to be so friggin proud of that bike!
  11. will_start

    will_start Member

    hey scottm,

    I don't care about proud much, I want easy.
    Although I do get off on creating
    something really unique.

    It turns a 15 minute back ache ride to the surf, into a 5 min cruise.
    thats got my vote, and why I really started down this path.

    fetor, I have been offered a replacment barrell,
    when I am ready to do it.

    I repaired the barrell, and think its ok,
    but I would love to do a compression check on it,
    just to make sure.

    Will have to visit a real mechanic for that,
    as sticking your thumb over the plug hole is a bit
    on the coarse side for a quality test.


    WWWill Start

    (thats me stuttering, not that US president, we all love to be amazed he's actually president)
  12. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Just would like to feedback on those bolt holes by the carby intake, I have them to and discovered this only an a hour ago.
    I prodded the holes with a plastic and I don't think it's serious, but it is concerning.
    My motor is brand new and not started yet, I have a temporary motored bike I'm using with the 70cc engine to get me around and it has no holes, where the 50cc seems to have holes.

    I think it's a casting error, I don't like it either, might be a idea to try blocking those holes with
    Selly's plastic metal mix, so no corrosion and dirt sets in ??
  13. will_start

    will_start Member

    hey bolts, I've already filled it, thats a picture of when the motor was new.

  14. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Show us some pics,but off-hand NO happy time engine should have casting error holes anywhere on the barrel....to me it's just an area of weakness,hence metal fatigue then failure.
    I have the 50cc and it's fine,but by all means do a Search and if nothing has been posted start a thread.
    Other MBc members have the right to know.................Chinese,sheesh. :rolleyes:
  15. will_start

    will_start Member

    I've seen people seal the join between the carb and the inlet pipe,
    by using a aluminium can.

    I will have probably done this by someday this week, but...
    from above.

    3. Seal the carb with the glass sealant shown in this Vid.
    Is that a bad idea ?

    anyone tried this ?

    If its sucking air into the carbie, then a sealant is whats needed.
    I know I'm getting fuel in that gap.

    The downside would be having to do it each time you
    unsealed the carbie.

    Upside, if you had this glue with you on the road, you could
    easily repair your bike with a small tube.

    am realising everyone has access to different glues...
    whatever works for you.

  16. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    It's directly inline where the carby stud threads end, as if the thread tap tool went too far and poked out some alloy.

    It is not in a space where stress or strain would occurr because it's sort of between the air fins, BUT very close to the outer casting of the cylinded stud round had the thread tap kept going.
    Blocking it would be fine I think and just know it's there for future reference if replacing the carby studs. Know the max length.
    I would like to see the Chinese manufacturers or their design and engineering staff to read all these error and quality bashes that are being posted, surely thay must know by now ?
  17. davidsis

    davidsis Guest

    Glad to hear I inspired you. Did you have your multi tester on 2 horse shoe setting thing or the 200 horse shoe setting thing?
  18. will_start

    will_start Member

    2 horse shoes ? no wonder newbies get confused.
    check the vid, it was the 2000 ohm setting.

    am looking forward to working on me bike this week.
    I've a list of ideas to try....

  19. will_start

    will_start Member


    My bikes update.

    After the magneto install, and the associated vid,
    my bike ran for one night only.

    (sounds like other areas of my life, but lets not go there!)

    The next two nights I moved the e-clip to postion two and four, added some fuel
    and after a total of 10 block laps, got no ignition, but did get very sweaty twice.

    I completely ignored my own advice, and forgot to change the idle screw.
    But I don't think thats the issue.

    Its probably that the carbie is leaking air in from the carbie to motor connector.
    I'll have to try the aluminium can trick.

    I went to a hardware store and they had a can of Start ya B****ard.($17)
    Literally, thats what it was called, but no Aero-Start. I check a service
    station and they had it for $18. I've seen it at SuperCheap Auto for $8 a small can.
    OK, so I'm tight. spent too much for too little gain so far...

    I'm thinking of strapping/taping a can to the bike, so I can give it a squirt whenever
    I need to start it.

    I think that'll be the next vid. One with me riding and squirting the B. can.
    I have a vid thats almost complete, sort of a travel montage, plus bikes.
    Will post that to vids when done.

    Last edited: Feb 12, 2008
  20. Will it's better I think to simply cut off the magneto than to short or overload it. That's how cars and motorcycles do it.
    Read this:

    I mean have you heard of anything else that uses a short the magneto approach to cutting off an engine?
    Maybe it's out there but it just doesn't make any sense to me.