Clutch Hard Clutch and non working Kill Switch

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by core2kid, May 28, 2010.

  1. core2kid

    core2kid Member

    I just installed the 66cc 2 stroke engine on my bike and it works well except for a few problems.

    First, the clutch is very hard to pull. It requires all the strength from my left hand. Should I replace the cable with a shorter brake cable from walmart?

    Second, the kill switch doesn't work. It's connected with a wire from the engine and another wire grounding it screwed onto the engine. Is this right or is my switch bad?

    Third, I used the same gas I use for all my 2 stroke lawn equipment such as leaf blowers, weed wackers and chansaw. Is this alright? I've never had a problem with any of my lawn equipment and the bike engine kicks right in.

    Fourth, some people told me that the fuel filter isn't required. Is this true? I'm currently running without it and it's fine.

    Fifth, I gave the bike full throttle (I know I'm not supposed to but I was curious) and my speedometer clocked me at 25mph on a flat road. Is this normal during the break in period or did I install something wrong? Also did I damage the engine by doing that?

    Thanks in advance for helping me out. I'm more of a building type person, not really good with engines though.

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Hope these help, others will have slightly different answers. Did you change out the cheap Chinese hardware. Did you mount the engine to the frame and not the frame to the engine?
  3. core2kid

    core2kid Member

    I used the hardware that came with the engine to mount it to the frame. I drilled through the bottom part of the frame for a more secure fit.

    For the fuel filter, today I will go ahead and cut the gas tube and install the filter. I will also drain all the gas and get some high quality 2 stroke engine oil and mix it with the regular gas from the gas station. Should I use high octane premium gas?

    For connecting the kill switch, the CDI only had a black and blue wire on it which connected to the engines black and blue wire. The only wire left was the white one off the engine. What do you mean by connecting it straight to the CDI?

    Lastly, you said something about replacing the cheap chinese hardware. What hardware is that? Is that the hardware that mounts it to the frame or hardware that actually holds the engine together?

    Also, how long is the break in period?
    Last edited: May 29, 2010
  4. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Here (picture below) is a solution to the tough clutch cable.... One finger operation.

    Go to my profile and check my photo albums. I'm a stickler on mounting the engine properly, I can't say enough about that subject. I feel that 90% of broken engine mount studs are caused because of improper engine instillation AND/OR improper torque on the nuts/studs. 5 builds not one broken or striped stud....think there might be a correlation there?

    Good reading on these threads, when you have time.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 29, 2010
    mosquito13 likes this.
  5. core2kid

    core2kid Member

    I'll go ahead and replace the screws and for mounting, my frame won't crack in half, it's quite thick which is why I had to drill.

    I use this for basically riding to my friends house (5 mins) and for just riding around the neighborhood, nothing major. Do you still suggest replacing all these screws? If I don't replace them and wait until the engine doesn't start, is it still repairable? I've been able to tighten the head screws on a leaf blower and get it started again.
  6. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    My MB is a toy and used much like you do, although I do ride to the next town (10 miles one way) every now and then, I also ride Oak Mountain in Pelham,'s a 1,200 foot climb. After seeing what others went or are going through (I myself blew a head gasket on my first build), I wouldn't ride one of these around the block without the stud mods, besides I can't as it is done directly out of the box, along with other mods, before it's ever installed. Watch the frame very closely for cracks appearing around the drilled hole.
  7. core2kid

    core2kid Member

    Thanks, I'll do that. Is the tutorial for the stud mods in the list of links you gave me?
  8. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    No need for it. Just buy some metric 6mm and 8mm all thread. I get it by the meter. Cut as needed. I have a die to chase the threads but a file will work. One thing that will or can help is to put nuts on before you cut the all thread. File the burs and remove the nut. The nut will straighten the threads out. When I use lock tite, I will put a drop or two on the stud or in the hole, insert and tighten, back out about 1/2 turn, let set and dry. If you use two nuts and jam them together you can use the outside nut much like the head on a bolt to install the all thread.
    Last edited: May 30, 2010
  9. core2kid

    core2kid Member

    For the clutch, I adjusted it a bit so pulling it less activates it. It's working well now, not excellent but good enough. I don't think I'll end up doing the pully mod that you showed me in the picture though I'll keep it in mind. I also drained the fuel and put 8oz 2 stroke engine oil from Autozone (for mopeds motorcycles etc) into 1 gallon. It's fairly cheap so I'm thinking of just sticking with that ratio. More oil can't hurt.

    I haven't gotten a time to swap out the headscrews but somebody told me that I can just make sure they are tight after each ride. If thats the case then I'd rather do that than risking damage to the piston when replacing those screws (those are the 5 screws by the spark plug right?)

    Second is that I messed with the idle and it started to stall. I finally got it to idle at a good sounding speed. Only thing is that from a complete stop, if I accelerate the engine stalls. Is this to do with the idle or do I need to pick up some speed at least before I accelerate again? I also didn't check the killswitch but I will check it out with a multimeter tomorrow. That's the last of my worries right now.

    Third, the bike doesn't start on the first kick. I shut off the fuel switch after each ride so I am starting to think it's just air in the carb or fuel lines. Do you think thats the case?

    Fourth, I have a fuel leak somewhere. I don't know if it's from the line, screw into the tank, carb or fuel filter. Should I end up replacing the tube and fuel filter? Don't all leaks happen from there? I was also thinking of teflon tape (that white tape for sealing pipes) on the screw for the shut off valve onto the gas tank. Is that necessary?

    Finally, the bike only seems smoother at higher speeds. Is this due to the break in period? I have a speedometer and I try to stay under 15mph. Usually between 12-13mph. Is that safe for the engine?

    So far I put 10 miles on the engine. I want it to go up to 1000+ Is that even possible with these engines? I'd assume with the right care that it is. You can see Fords in the junk yard after 6 years but others still on the road from the 80s.