Hard Rubbish collection pics

Since I got the USB cable sorted for my new phone, (Thanks to customer service at Crazy Johns Phones, saved me $50, they gave me a cable.)
I had to practice and work out how this USB thing works, to get the pics from the fone to the PC.

So I'll start my Album thread with something that startled me on the day.
I don't know which blessing to count, but I seem to have all these bikes to fix.
Some are ladies bikes and there are 2 who want motors on these frames someday soon.
So I have a bit of a challenge to figure this out and all of a sudden I seem to be busy. Fortunately I have the loan of a garage/workshop and it has a drill press and some electric tools.
Still much of my work is with basic tools and nothing fancy.

How do I get rust off old chains ?

 

[ozzyu812]

PB Blaster

sorry i did'nt notice you was in AU. They may not have it there. http://www.pbblaster.com/products.html 1st one under featured products is the one i'm familiar with.

 

[BoltsMissing]

sorry i did'nt notice you was in AU. They may not have it there. http://www.pbblaster.com/products.html 1st one under featured products is the one i'm familiar with.

np,

 

[dbigkahunna]

If the little lady(or man) has some lamp oil, even scented, it makes a fine cleaner. It is high grade kerosene and I have found it at the dollar store for, uh a dollar for a quart. Cheaper than any of the real solvents and their primary ingreadent is kerosene. Add a few ounces of marvel mystery oil to the lamp oil and you have dandy penetrating oil

 

[losenup]

U dont geet rust of an old chain, you throw the chain away, and buy a new one.
Otherwise the chain will wear down the sprockets.

If your thinking of the enviroemnt you should not use any detergents, oil or whatever pollutant to clean the chain.

It alls about the money. But in this case the most affordable and smart thing to do is to buy a new one.

 

[miletwo]

U dont geet rust of an old chain, you throw the chain away, and buy a new one.
Otherwise the chain will wear down the sprockets.

Huh? How does a chain "wear down" a sprocket? As to getting rust off of a chain, that's absolutely possible. I'm restoring a 1975 Toyota Landcruiser and I get rust off of it in a number of ways. Electrolysis would work great on the chain, but any number of mild acids would do the same thing. Just flash the rust off, then oil her up. Like new.

 

[sjackson]

Huh? How does a chain "wear down" a sprocket?

An old rusty chain will actually stretch out, because it's wearing away the pins in the links. A normal chain will make contact with the entire part of the sprocket that it's wrapped around at any given time. This means the force is spread out over all those teeth. An old, worn out and stretched chain will only make contact with the upper teeth on the sprocket. This causes it to wear down the edge of the teeth into a shark fin shape. The angle of the teeth should be symmetrical on both sides. If it's not, that means your chain has been wearing down the sprocket, and also seriously torqueing the hub. If you neglect to replace your chain, it will eventually fail when a pin breaks. When you replace it with a new one, you'll find that the shark finned sprocket will actually catch on the unstretched new chain, and cause problems, forcing you to replace the sprocket.

Take a look at some of these links:

http://www.bicyclinglife.com/HowTo/ChangeAChain.htm
http://ramblings.cyclofiend.com/?p=159#respond

This is the easiest way to keep an eye on your chain, and avoid having to replace sprockets. Always have a spare chain or two lying around for your bikes. (Taken from one of the linked articles):

The rule of thumb is you should replace your chain BEFORE a foot of chain has stretched to the point where it is a foot and one eight of an inch.

Checking this is Simple:

* Shift to the big-big gear combination. (Gives a nice long place to measure).
* Lay your bike on its left side.
* Lay a one foot ruler or tape on the top run of chain such that the Zero mark is dead center in one of the chain pins. Hold it there very steady.
* Check the other end of the ruler. On a new chain it will be dead center on another chain pin.
* If the chain pin center is less than 1/16th beyond the end of the ruler it's OK.
* Between a 16th and an 8th, you should think about changing the chain at the earliest convenience.
* If the chain pin center is 1/8th of an inch beyond the end of the ruler it is past time to change your chain.

You may get anywhere from 2000 miles to 20,000 miles on a bike chain before it needs replacement. It all depends on how much grit and dirt accumulate on the chain and your style of pedaling.

They make special tools to measure chains, but they basically do the same thing as described above.

 

[miletwo]

Wow! I sit corrected.

Thanks for the links.

Jeremy

 

[sjackson]

Wow! I sit corrected.

Thanks for the links.

Jeremy

No problem. I wish somebody had explained this to me before I wrecked a perfectly nice (and a bit pricey) group set on my road bike by not replacing a simple little chain. I only had about 1800 miles on it before I started having problems with my rear hub. When I took the bike in for service, they basically explained this to me.

What wore it down was the fact that when I built up the groupset piece by piece, I opted to use the chain that came with the bike, which was pretty bad quality. Add to that the fact that I was an all weather biker at the time, and it's just a recipe for short chain life.

 

[BoltsMissing]

Thanks sjackson, those links are very informative.
Makes sense cos there are some cassette gears and big sprocket gears all in very good condition.

 

[ozzyu812]

my errors

Not totally related to rusty chains, but I felt I should share.
I ride my bike everyday to work 5 mi. This year we had one of the worst winters in NH recorded history. I leave my bike outside because I live in 2nd apt. One day this happened (see pic). I thought it was due to metal fatigue, because it was so durn cold. But it was because the sand, I didn't take it to the car wash because as I said it was so durn cold! And I was using WD-40. 2 no-no's! I was goin to get that expensive bike chain oil, but the wife talked me into that chain oil for chainsaw chains. Been using it for 500 mi more or less with no problems.(fingers crossed)
I got another lightly used wally world bike for $30. It had a larger front sprocket, old style caliper brakes so I could run dual rear brakes again.The forks didn't have the now useless cantilever "studs". But it had a tiny,tiny frame. I'm 6' 3". I wound up moving almost everything from the 2nd bike to the 1st. I liked it so much my XR-250 took a back seat. Now I have the e-zip so its back to being back to my #2. I do plan on putting a HT on it, for transporation "emergencies". When I get legal it may be my #1 again.

Windows update trying to restart my machine!

lata