Has Anyone Moved The 212 Engine's Clutch To The Flywheel Side?

The outboard bearing support will be fairly simple, yet strong.

I bought a steel plate that’s 8” x 12” x 3/16” thick.

It’ll duplicate the 5” x 8” motor mount and sandwich between it and the engine base.

The bottom plate should be about 8” long and 9” wide.

The 3/16” plate will extend 4.5”inches towards the right, as the base. It’ll have a 2” wide x 6” long hole, so the timing belt can connect the clutch and the outboard chainring on the bike’s bottom bracket.

The bike’s bottom bracket is almost directly below the outboard bearing plate.

The 3” x 7” bearing support plate will rise at a 90-degree angle, It’ll be bolted to the bottom plate, for easy access to the clutch, outboard bearing and removable clutch shaft.

The clutch shaft will begin at 6” long. After being drilled, tapped and grooved for a keyway, the shaft will be trimmed to fit a .75” x 1.75” x .5” outboard bearing.

The outboard bearing’s snap ring will secure it in its vertical support plate.

It’ll also prevent the screwed-on clutch shaft from unscrewing itself.

So no set screws, locktite or hose clamp will be needed to retain the clutch shaft.
 
Sickbikeparts freewheels don't need to screw onto the right side crank. Mine is halfway between the crank arm and BB assemble floating on the shaft, held on with the 2 setscrews. Get their freewheel adapter to fix the chain line.
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