Has Anyone Tried a M.M. Billet Head ??

Discussion in 'Performance Mods' started by 210061741, Apr 26, 2010.

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  1. 210061741

    210061741 Guest

    Now that the billet heads are available i'm wondering if anyone has one.
    I do have one but it didn't work out so well in my case.
    I ran with a NGKB7S Plug but it runs way hot.

    I have thought of trying a B8S but i got a different head so i haven't used it for a wile.

    What plugs are you guys running and what are your results.

    Riding Rich

  2. G-Superior

    G-Superior Member

    I dont know the anwser to your questions but i think billet heads run yo hot because the air just runs thro it, its not like a standart one that is porous so it causes turbulence making the air get all the heat out of it:thinking:
    at least that what happens when you polish a connecting rod to mirror finish, it over heats :icon_cry:
    so i think pirates or what ever make it is they should make it by sand casting so make it porous and also a few more fins in near the plug like this bike:

    Attached Files:

  3. 210061741

    210061741 Guest

    Yes i agree about the runnung hot.
    Allthough you can get more heat out of the engine by using a colder heat range plug.
    I run a Puch Hi Comp head, like the pic you show the fins are much bigger.
    Also the fins down the center of the head allow for the air to travel through.

    The funny thing is the Puch Head has a combustion chamber that is a little over 5cc. 2cc less than the MM billet head but it still runs cooler.

    Hopefully i can get this MM Head running good.
    Seems a few people are having some trouble.
  4. 210061741

    210061741 Guest

  5. G-Superior

    G-Superior Member

    probably the flow in the punch head is not as good due to the side fins no being pararel to the airflow
    your head comes from an flat engine like in the picture but you need to find one that has all the fins pararel to the airflow like the second picture(up right engine)
    and last thing, have you got the measurements (from hole to hole ) of a HT head and i will see if i can find one in my old cylinder head box in the garage(got tones of 50cc heads there :rolleyes7:
    good luck

    G-Superior :D
  6. G-Superior

    G-Superior Member

    forgot to post the pics:goofy: hahahahahha:D

    Attached Files:

  7. 210061741

    210061741 Guest

    Yes i will measure it up.

    Anyway that puch head runs fine.
    Yes it would be better if the fins ran across.

    But it is mcuh better than hardly any fins at all.

    I will calculate the total surface area of all three heads and post it here.
  8. andrew88rmz

    andrew88rmz Member

    why not machine the stock head. Heck you could probably take about .010of an inch off and be fine. You could even sand the head down over a piece of glass. Is anyone doing this? Ive thought about doing it to mine.
  9. 210061741

    210061741 Guest

    I have done those things.

    A stock head has 8cc combustion chamber and barely any squish and not much for fins.

    MM head has 7cc combustion chamber and a good squish band.

    Puch has a 5cc chamber good squish band and a ton of big fins.

    If you sand the ring off the stock head you might run into trouble with the gasket sealing.
  10. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    Just wondering, do you reckon that roughening the fin surfaces of a smooth billet head might improve cooling? (More surface area.)
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2010
  11. 210061741

    210061741 Guest

    Well more surface area = better cooling.
    Allthough i think it would be a minor increase in cooling efficcency.
    You could shot pene it and that would be the best.

    I think the 2 most critical aspects are.

    #1 most important.....The total combined surface area of the fins and head.

    #2 also important .....the direction of the fins and the impact of the airflow due to the fin direction.


    The sparkplug Heat Range is actually the rating of how quickly the sparkplug removes heat from the engine.
  12. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    I thought about shot-blasting. Probably best, but I think that a stiff stainless-steel wire brush in an electric drill would help cooling.
    (My RSE hi-comp billet head runs a bit hot too. Not too bad, but it needs more than a cooler plug. That only goes so far.)
  13. 210061741

    210061741 Guest

    I know what your saying.

    You know the head runs too hot when......

    Your sparkplug shows good color and not running too lean.

    Your engine runs great at first really fast and powerful.

    But after a 2 or 3 mile WOT it starts to loose power and bog down.

    Also you will hear a rattling noise that sounds like you got BB's in the cylinder.
  14. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    Mine's nowhere near that bad, but it does run a bit hot.
    The idle reduces as it heats up, if that's relevant. After a couple of miles hard riding, I need to adjust the idle up a bit.
  15. G-Superior

    G-Superior Member

    I probably will help if you get something like a 40 grit sand paper and sand it all so it has mini colling fins(like a porous sand cast)
    And Andrew that what i have done lots and lots of times with my heads. Piece of glass+sand paper+gentle 8 figure sanding=perfectly flat head:rolleyes7:

  16. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    Yep. I also considered 36 or 40 paper. In fact, almost anything that can roughen up the surface sufficiently. Fine, closely spaced knife grooves etc. It won't just increase surface area but also increase turbulence, providing even more cooling, I would think.
    (This wouldn't be useful on a stock head - they run at a good temp.)
  17. andrew88rmz

    andrew88rmz Member

    Thanks 210061741.
  18. tacoshell4

    tacoshell4 Member

    ok so i have the original ce hi comp head and yes the compression is too much for pump fuel causing detonation and scorching pistons yes i agree but it was a prototype rich thats what prototypes are for i had no issue with the head because i run only race fuel and have easy access to it i run about 106 to 108 blend of vp i mix 3 gallons of ms103 oxygenated which is 99octane and 1 gallon of q16 oxygenated with lead the ms is unleaded. so needless to say that head works for me and def gives me a good power increase and i cant say i have or ever will do a 3 mile wot run either. the hottest the head has ever gotten is 300 which is toatally fine for an air cooled engine considering my jd's at work run 450degrees the new head has lower compression than the prototype head and is made to run with 93octane with a b8s plug i have that head on a bike and run the same blend of fuel with the max temp of 280 to 300 and have the same performance maybee a bit less but not much
  19. 210061741

    210061741 Guest

    Ok thats good.
    However the puch head has a 5cc combustion chamber making it 2 cc's less than the billet head and much higher compression.
    The puch chamber is centralized and about the size of a quarter to resist the pinging.
    I am running a NGKB9HS PLUG and i am having no issues with fouling and the engine is running cool enough.

    I do like the billet head i just think it needs more fins.
  20. Neon

    Neon Member

    This is something new to me. I was always taught that the heat range of a plug meant that the electrode maintained heat better to resist fouling and better combustion. I never knew that it had anything to do removing heat from an engine. Thanks for bringing this up.