Hausheng 53 cc engines

[darwin]

If dax is out bicycle -engines had that carb and adapter. Been awhile since I've looked at that site.

 

[BigBlue]

Sorry about the bad info. on the carb. Didn't realize it was out of stock. Maybe you can contact Dwayne after holidays to see when he'll get some more in stock.

Here's his video on how to for the install if you interested:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNqCia47K6U

Here's what came in the kit. I show both sides of the carb. You need an adapter since the mount spacing for the rotary carb is 31mm. I believe the mount spacing for the Titan, Huasheng and Honda is 41mm.



Good Luck,

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

[darwin]

I just happen to have a reg 49cc titan with that carb installed for sale. Had it for sale earlier this year but 4 times sale fell through due to bs/no money. 125$ its yours plus shipping . This motor was used only for about 10 rides then it was replaced by a tanaka 40cc. Contact me if interested.

 

[GreenMantis]

I was under the impression that these carbs were dependant on a pressure pulse that comes from the crankcase. But I didn't see that port on the manifold, although I do see it on the carb, which means it's the same as a couple that I have already. The manifold bolt pattern was a little bit too small, so to make the manifold from the 2 stroke fit, I had to widen the holes as far as I could. But that being done, it all bolted right on, and seems to run fine. I can't actually test drive it for a few days, I'm waiting for some other stuff it needs. But I ran it for a while, and it didn't run out of gas in the carb, and this is with the fuel pump port sealed off.
What got me motivated to try, were the carb size specs listed at AGK. The shuishyball carbs I have are 15mm, the one I used, and I also have a 12mm. The former is what is supposed to go on a 49cc, 2 stroke, so in theory, it should be more than enough, even though it looks really small on this engine. But my math shows that even the little 12mm bore, = 0.4724395", while the 15mm bore I used = 0.5905494", either of those is an improvement. I can't wait to road test it.

 

[BigBlue]

Good that you got it to fit. Make sure it isn't running too lean and check the plug. I believe these carburetors are copies of the Walbro WYJ and WYK series. They don't need to be connected to the engine crankcase. If your running lean, you may be able to bend the metering lever up to make the carburetor richer. I don't know if it would work or not since i've never done it. See page 6 in either manual on how to bend the meter lever.

http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/WYJseries.pdf
http://www.walbro.com/media/21913/WYKseries.pdf

Here's a video on how to rebuild the carburetor if you have to put it back together:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=844VJIcVVUw&feature=relmfu

Good Luck,

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

[GreenMantis]

So far, so good. The plug looks normal, and it runs great with this carb on it. Since I have it mounted with the starter on the left side, I used one of these exhausts, it was economical, runs good, and looks good on there, too, imo.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190518115417?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
The reverse mounting is because of this transmission, which has about a 5:1 reduction, and reverses the direction, also economical. It also bolted right on the clutch on this engine, and can be bolted on in different orientation.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gearbox-Kit...H_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec4ae8953&vxp=mtr

 

[GreenMantis]

If I am not mistaken, the 142f, 49cc engine doesn't have a cdi, like this one does, so I guess this is the most relavant thread to bring this up in. But it's really easy to advance the ingnition timing on this engine, just move the sensor a little bit. I'm going to elongate the bolt hole on the bracket on mine, and make that adjustable. I'm going to get one of those nice, billet velocity stack kits for this carb, that they make for the pocketbikes, since that's what these rotary, squishybulb, carbs come from. And the camshaft from AGK, then I'll have a practical reason to mess with the timing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Performance...938?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae5a88fb2

There was one thing, there is a flat plate on the bottom of the crankcase, and mine was leaking engine oil from that when I got it. I was horrified to find that there is nothing sealing that except some kind of liquid gasket. I cut out a piece of thin sheet copper, and made 3 holes, such that it was the same as the metal plate, and used that. I put a tiny bit of RTV on the sealing surface, just because, but copper is the best gasket meterial, particularly there, where it will hold in the sump oil like it does. I reccomend making a real gasket for that out of something.

 

[GreenMantis]

And one other thing. I am really scared to overspeed this engine, there is a vid on youtube someone around here posted of their 142f blowing up from overspeed, that I have watched a dozen times. Fortunately, this engine has that cdi, so there has to be a way to incorperate a rev limiter, by finding a suitable replacement for it. The ones on the cheap, Chinese, scooters have rev limiters. I'll update again, when and if I find one that will do. They say an ounce of protection is worth more than a pound of cure, I think it's a LOT more, actually.

 

[GreenMantis]

I have been exparamenting with the charging system on this. My first try was the cheap as they come, 4 wire regulator-rectifier for chinese scooters. Wiring it up was simple enough, but it didn't work. Fortunately, I have a transformer with several different outputs, that came in handy. I only got 6v out of the r-r, on the engine, so I tried first, the 24v output from my transformer, and it worked perfect, at 12v. But when connected to the 14v output, it only made 6v, again. The output from the stator goes as high as 13v, when I tested it, so I guess the r-r needs more input voltage to work properly. I diy'd together a bridge rectifier, and the dc charge controller from an old 2 stroke scooter (which it probably doesn't need), and that works, but I'm looking for an all in one unit that will install cleanly. It also needs to be cheap, and easily found, I'll update when I do.

I was reading a wiring shcematic for a scooter with cdi, and it showed a seperate "speed limiter (adjustable)", I'm looking into that, it might be the overrev limiter we need for this engine.

I think that the 15mm rotary valve diaphram carb I used might be a little bit too big, it has a very slight tendancy to bog out a little bit if I open the throttle too fast at low speed. It doesn't bother me, but I think that I will rebuild the 12mm one I have, and try that. I think that should be perfect: it's the same bore size as the overbore carbs that AGK sells, roughly. The 15mm is way bigger. Either will fit the billet velocity stack kit, as well as working with the Dax adaptor. I don't know which size diaphram carb Dax sells.

I love this engine, it runs really good, and starts on the first try, every time. I just replaced it's oil with Royal Purple synthetic, it'll like that. That exhaust I used sounds really good, it's deep and throaty, but not particularly loud.

 

[GreenMantis]

Spark Plug Mixup. I happened to have an identical spark plug around, or so I thought. But I just took the plug out, and happened quite accidentally that the 2 I have have slightly different part numbers, one is an NGK C7HSA, the other an NGK CR7HSA, and immediately the word "resistor" came to mind. So I whip out the old multimeter, and check across the plug, and wouldn't you know it, the CR7HSA has 5K ohms, and the C7HSA dead shorts. But then I realized, I couldn't remember which one was the original one, so I looked in the book, which said TORCH A5RTC. I cross referanced that and appearantly, the "R" in each indicates a resistor plug, and that is what this engine requires. I don't know what the 142f, whithout the CDI calls for. I also don't know what would happen without the resistor, if I used the other plug. Does anyone know anything more about these than I do?