Head nut torque specification

[rwomer]

After rebuilding the fuel system from tank to intake and everything in between, I noticed I could see the head studs THROUGH the GAP between the head, gasket and cylinder! No wonder I wasn't getting fuel delivered. My cylinder was sucking air through the GAP instead of the carb. Took it apart and noticed the burn pattern was about 3/16ths out of line. Right up to the edge of the gasket which was already basically "floating". There was oil all over the "sealing" surfaces. Which told again improper seal.
A bit of investigating revealed the cap nuts didn't tighten down the head because they had bottomed out on the studs. With 2 flat washers and a lock washer. Didnt have a new stainless head gasket but used copper head gasket tack/sealer with plain nuts.
SO, What is the torque number on those head nuts. Anyone?

 

[rwomer]

Oops, I guesstimated about 20. Googled it says 25 ft. lbs. I'll back it off about 5 or so. Then check. I have no torque wrench but lots of experience. The head was on wrong from the factory. I couldn't get it to run right. Discovered the issue and noticed the head was beginning warp already during reassembling. Might have to run it as is then retorque several times to achieve satisfactory seal. Might even buy a new torque wrench lol. Thanks For the Help.

 

[rwomer]

10-4

 

[Member 30059]

The gap is there by design. Take a look at the bottom of your head. There's a raised sealing ring on that surface. You may have under tightened the head nuts but seeing that gap is no symptom of that

 

[Purple Haze]

If you think the head is warped, it can be fixed by sanding it on a piece of flat plate glass. You should do this any time you loosen it, shouldn't take much to make it flat. Also, flip the gasket and you can reuse it.