Head studs / top end

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Careful with removing and reusing those metal head gaskets. They will get work hardened and stop sealing if not annealed or replaced.
What could be the reason I see a few small gaps ? I heard that happens here n there with the china dolls as in they look like their not sealed but they are . I’ll take a picture of it when I get home I would def like your opinion. I even tried putting two gaskets on it to make it seal better , it helped but again still a few small gaps. The one is brand new and the other one is slightly used but in good condition and the better copper one ..
 
You shouldn't see any kind of gaps if the head and cylinder are milled flat and torqued down evenly.

Two gaskets isn't the cure, your squish band will suffer unless the piston comes up above the deck.
 
You shouldn't see any kind of gaps if the head and cylinder are milled flat and torqued down evenly.

Two gaskets isn't the cure, your squish band will suffer unless the piston comes up above the deck.
So what’s the solution? I don’t want to over torque it down , I have two gaskets on the bottom as well bc the kit came with two so I assumed they both needed to be on there.
 
So what’s the solution? I don’t want to over torque it down , I have two gaskets on the bottom as well bc the kit came with two so I assumed they both needed to be on there.
So what has been explained to you a few times is that the head's sometimes come with imperfections in the flange surface and they aren't even all the way around. Most will still seal just fine, but if this bothers you then you can tape some wet/dry sand paper to a smooth glass surface, get the paper wet, and lightly move the head surface across the paper. Don't push down at all, just guide it in a figure 8 pattern. Check it after a few passes and see what the pattern looks like. Do this until the entire flange surface all looks the same. Just make sure to finish sanding with at least a 200 grit. I like 400 myself. No need to go beyond that, but some guys will go up to 2000+ to get a mirror finish.

You aren't looking to remove a lot of metal, just enough to ensure it is flat. You can use less aggressive grits to be safe, it will simply take longer to get the desired results. Also make sure to occasionally re-wet the paper as you go.

For the most ideal results it also can help to do this to the top of the cylinder too.
 
So what has been explained to you a few times is that the head's sometimes come with imperfections in the flange surface and they aren't even all the way around. Most will still seal just fine, but if this bothers you then you can tape some wet/dry sand paper to a smooth glass surface, get the paper wet, and lightly move the head surface across the paper. Don't push down at all, just guide it in a figure 8 pattern. Check it after a few passes and see what the pattern looks like. Do this until the entire flange surface all looks the same. Just make sure to finish sanding with at least a 200 grit. I like 400 myself. No need to go beyond that, but some guys will go up to 2000+ to get a mirror finish.

You aren't looming to remove a lot of metal, just enough to ensure it is flat. You can use less aggressive grits to be safe, it will simply take longer to get the desired results. Also make sure to occasionally re-wet the paper as you go.

For the most ideal results it also can help to do this to the top of the cylinder too.
So what’s confusing is one person says one thing and then another says something different and if it’s annoying to answer my question then don’t "EXPLETIVE DELETED" answer . All y’all that have been doing this awhile are ignorant as hell to people just getting involved in this "EXPLETIVE DELETED" . If you read the whole thread you would see what I’m talking about .
 
So what’s confusing is one person says one thing and then another says something different and if it’s annoying to answer my question then don’t f***in answer . All y’all that have been doing this awhile are ignorant as hell to people just getting involved in this s**t . If you read the whole thread you would see what I’m talking about .
Dude, uncool. I was offering advice and nothing more to help with the situation you are dealing with. I never once talked down to you or said anything negative.
 
Dude, uncool. I was offering advice and nothing more to help with the situation you are dealing with. I never once talked down to you or said anything negative.
“So what has been explained to you a few times” is talking to someone like their a child . You may see it another way and that’s fine , I didn’t mean to be disrespectful either but it’s just something I’ve noticed since I started asking for advice and I honestly don’t understand why people feel the need to do that.
 
“So what has been explained to you a few times” is talking to someone like their a child . You may see it another way and that’s fine , I didn’t mean to be disrespectful either but it’s just something I’ve noticed since I started asking for advice and I honestly don’t understand why people feel the need to do that.
No, it's talking to somebody that seems to have missed a point the first few times it was mentioned by multiple members. Don't mistake me pointing out your errors as condescending. It's just a factual observation. I don't care one way or the other if you want to follow the advice given or not, but this isn't high school and I ain't your daddy. I don't have time for soft language and childish games. You get the facts and nothing more. Can't handle it? Not my problem. Working in shops my whole life and around a bunch of old timers taught me one thing. It ain't personal, it's just efficient.
 
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