Head torque specs

[Quenton Guenther]

This ceramic coating is sprayed everywhere, exhaust port, intake port, top deck of cylinder.
Bead blast it all off if possible! the NE cylinders use to be 24mm intake valve, 22mm exhaust.
This one is 22mm and 22mm why?
and now there dropping in a 24mm intake valve but leaving a 22mm valve seat, why?
Not that you can't still upgrade this one. Intake port is just a little bit bigger than the WC-1'S intake port. you can also move the piston all the way to the top.

Ray View attachment 71681View attachment 71682View attachment 71683View attachment 71684View attachment 71685View attachment 71686View attachment 71687View attachment 71688View attachment 71689View attachment 71690View attachment 71688

The intake valve was reduced to 22 MM and the carburetor reduced to 16 MM and later models use a 20 MM. It is difficult to change the seats as they are installed during the casting process and have a grove cut around the seat where the aluminum fills and holds it in place. In order to increase the seat size you would have to mill block and "press" in the seat. This works with the NE cylinder because of the wider fins and lower operating temperature.

You ask why Joe Lin would put a 24MM valve in a 22MM seat, for the same reason he does most downgrades, cause he had the parts and needed to get rid of them. If you want another puzzle about Taiwan engineering, ask why some camshafts are advanced three teeth instead of one. Answer.... cause they messed up a bunch of camshafts and the gear was installed wrong. Instead of fixing the gear location, he just advanced the camshaft extra teeth to correct the timing. Sure confuses the correct camshaft timing.

Have fun,

 

[mason_man]

The 16mm carb was used with the 24mm intake valve starting in 2008. Here's a NE-R with one, and with the baked on black paint. wasn't a good idea. Let me show the results, even with some mods this baby ran lean and HOT.
I made the needed corrections and more.

Ray

 

[Quenton Guenther]

I don't suggest painting head. The [block] head normally runs hot because it is a thick block of aluminum with small fins. I have been milling the fins deeper and adding many more. This process lowers the head temp almost 80 degrees. The cylinder in your post is one of the salvaged NE versions. When the seats were not installed correctly, they machined the cylinder for the oval shaped valve seat. Many problems from the salvaged cylinders, including one of the block retainer screws hit the rear of the head and caused sealing problems, the gasket under the block leaks and allows incoming gas to find a direct path to the exhaust port, and block shifts or works loose and causes the valves to loose the seal on the 45 degree angle. I normally remove the block, replace gasket with copper version, coat block with sleeve retainer, re-install block, grind screws flat, and deck cylinder. Only advantage to cylinder with valve block is valve size can be increased with out replacing seats.

have fun,

 

[mason_man]

I haven't had any problems with the head. I mill them, they heat coat it.
Cylinder needs more work done to it to use the bigger carbs,a bigger intake port. Help it breathe,exhaust port needs just a little work.
The 1"intake valve makes a nice differences, bringing the piston up, spot on.

Ray

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Don't you love the way the intake port is located everywhere but center. That is exactly the same way I upgrade the "valve block" cylinder. The combustion chamber on the "Block" head is a great design, too bad they didn't add a little more "meat" between the chamber and the rear center head bolt [where gasket most often fails]. I mill the head down .090" for serious motors, and .065" for normal upgrade.
I use Toyota valves, what are you using? I also found the head flows much better if you remove the "cup" from the valve head.
Have fun,

 

[mason_man]

Ron Houk supplies me with the valves.
You mentioned earlier that the 10mm head bolts needing the thick head bolt washes, you can use the 5/16 (same as the 8mm head bolts washers )
You need to use the high speed steel step drills.

Ray

 

[Quenton Guenther]

I just use vintage 5/16" washers and chuck them in my lathe and drill them with a black oxide bit, and "presto" it is perfectly centered and I let the machine do the work.
Do the valves from Ron have the same stem O.D. as the original stems? The Toyota stems are .002" smaller and I have to change the guides. I think the stock are .217", and the Toyota are .215"

Have fun,

 

[mason_man]

Yup, the valve is plug and play.
Are you looking for a bigger valve?

Ray

 

[Quenton Guenther]

No, already have several O.S. valves, just trying to find valve with same stem size as original. I know several sell the O.S. valves with the smaller stem and suggest using them in the larger guide, just don't agree with concept.

Have fun,

 

[mason_man]

I have a NE cylinder I'm going to use the 1" intake valve.
Then use the 24mm intake valve and valve seat in a WC-1 cylinder.

Ray