Hello from Southen California

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by PocketBiker, Feb 5, 2015.

  1. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member

    Just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Jim. Ever since my neighbor rode by my house on his Motored Bike last week, I can think of nothing else! I've spent hours looking at eBay and motor bike cataloges. Perhaps someone can get me going on the correct path..... As I see it, I can buy a Schwinn for $120, a 66cc $120 (though I'm in California and it sure seem strange that all California dealers, print in their ads that they don't sell to California residents??) Thinking of going with the metal hub rather than use the spoke drive?? I'd like some opinions on that subject (though I'm sure it has been discussed a lot on this forum) And, I saw a great video about adding a centrufigal clutch for $60 for the kit..... So, looks like I'd have over $400 for a bike going down the road. I'd really like to hear any advise concerning how to keep from getting pulled over for anything....... I would be using the bike for weekend cruising around so I thought the simple Wally World $120 Schwinn would suffice?? Any comments on that or any advise would be welcome, before I start shelling out $$$$ Thanks, Jim

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  2. Paul E.

    Paul E. Member

    Nice cruiser!

    One thing though: in my opinion, a good pair of front and rear brakes are mandatory, although one could get away with rear coaster and fronts.

    the only thing I see that might be an issue, is the reinforcing tubes under the main top tube might interfere with a HS142/Honda 4 stroke. the smaller two strokes would fit though.

    You should measure for this anyway.
  3. Wolfshoes

    Wolfshoes Member

    I motorized a Schwinn Delmar last summer. It is a nice bike for the money. A weak point of a bike in general is the attachment of the gorilla handlebars to the neck. The attachment point is not up the leverage created from pushing down on the handlebar while mounting or stopping the bike. This clamp should have had two bolts instead of one. Also, the tire tubes have two thin dimples near the fill stem which will blow if the tube is overloaded or over inflated. There are frame attachment points above the fenders for cantilever rim brakes to be installed, but care must be taken when ordering them that the reach is long enough and the pads have a rubber grip. Frame slots are too easily bent from tightening the rear axle nuts. Next time; I would be taking a second look at a Schwinn with V brakes even if it was a five speed. The overall cost is less than adding cantilever brakes to a Delmar, and in my opinion, the V brakes provide more stopping power. A Walmart five speed I looked at also had a different handlebar neck situation. Coaster brakes may be good as a backup emergency option, but getting your feet in the correct position to back petal takes time you may not have when riding in traffic. I do like the aftermarket dual pull brake lever. Good luck with your build whatever it is!
  4. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member

    Great advice

    I was really interested in what you had to say about the Delmar. I'm really not crazy about the huge handlebars, partly because ..... I'm not going to riding it on the beach. I was actually thinking of just bending them in a bit..... and even cutting a couple of inches off on both sides. I suppose, if the single bolt really does become a problem, as a last ditch effort, I suppose I could find a good position and drill a 1/4" hole through it all.

    The funny thing about this new hobby is how inexpensive it started out to be.... I mean, I'm got everything from a $50 centrifugal clutch kit, to a $55 sprocket adapter (to save my spokes) so it's not going to be a cheap hobby, but it sure sounds like fun! Paul had me thinking of the 4 stroke engine today, but I'm just stuck on the ole 2 stroke. I guess you just have to learn some things on our own. So, tomorrow morning I'll drive up to Brea and meet the people at BikeBerry.

    I'm interested to know what effect the "rubber donuts" have on the spokes with the style that comes with the kit. It seems like something you might put on a yard sale bike, but man, I would hesitate doing that to new spokes, so I thought the metal sprocket adapter seemed better?? Then, after I check out the engine, I plan on doing the centrifugal clutch mod.

    I'm not 100% sold on the Schwinn Delmar but for the $$, it might be fine for starters......

  5. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    Welcome to the forum from Orange County.
    I would not recommend the centrifugal clutch.

    We are racing these bikes on Sat March 28th at Grange Motor Circuit in Apple Valley.
  6. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member

    Explain please

    Why would you not recommend the centrifugal clutch. I was under the impression that it is like having a more conventient automatic trans. as opposed to a manual.... where you have to pull in the clutch, everytime you stop (or stop your engine). Of course, 1/2 of me likes your answer....... it'll save me about $80!

    Thanks for you information.
  7. dougsr.874

    dougsr.874 Active Member

    The spoke mounted rear sprocket is about the only thing that I've NEVER had aproblem with...the Delmar bike's frame with break where the rear rack is welded to the frame....Schwinn cheapen it up....If you add a cent. clutch then you'll need a pull start....also a wide pedal crank kit....cause pedals won't clear the pull start..
  8. kgyrobotron

    kgyrobotron Member

    Shift kits are sick!! check em out. You don't have to wind out your engine..welcome to the hole in the pocket hobby...its only change..lol
  9. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member

    Thans Much!

    I am really happy now....... I can scratch cent. clutch and metal sprocket off my wish list....

    Hey, you guys just saved me $135! Do I need the boost bottle?

  10. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member

  11. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member

    I'll check out the shift kits! Does that use the jackshift kit? That really WILL put a hole in my pocket..... I just need to get to the store and back.
  12. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member

    Walmart bike.jpg

    Today, I changed my mind and bought a cheap, but cool looking bike.

    Wally World's vintage-replica of the 1937 Columbia. I'm sure, it's a very cheaply made bike, but, when I saw that mock gas tank, I couldn't resist the temptation of building my own fiberglass tank inside. I hope the bike holds up. It had a scratch for 10% off and I opened a Walmart credit card for another $25 off. Heck, you can't buy a used, beat-up bike on Craigslist for that price! It might be a good bike on which to get my motorbike feet wet.....

    I plan to simply screw a wooden floor to the top of the bottom bar, put my form-fitted fiberglass tank on it and build the sides around it all. If I pull open one side to fill the tank, I don't need to mount a gas cap ON the outside of the bike, and I can use the space at the front and back of the tank to store oil and tools. But, the "devil is in the details" and I've got a lot of fine details to work out.

    Any design ideas are very welcome. :idea:

  13. kgyrobotron

    kgyrobotron Member

    greetings, a grocery getter,yeah me too. Nice bike! Shift kit parts are bout 70.00 if you weld your own. Maybe your next one.! You know you can't stop with just one...there'll be build 2 next...lol
  14. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member

    Is the bike good enough?

    I was contacted earlier today and told that not only are the 66cc kits are garbage with non-stop problems, but this Walmart Columbia bike will never stay in one piece. The opinion about the bike was that it was made to go 5 MPH.... not 25 MPH, and that the road and engine will tear it apart.

    Well, that was discouraging because I know the bike is not a high quality bike..... But, is it really any worse than most other bikes being built? Just because it is sold at Walmart for $150, is it any worse than a $400 basic "no name" bike at a bicycle shop?

    When I was a kid...... okay....... 50 years ago, we kids would ride our "no name" bikes so hard.... to the onlooker, it must have looked like we were trying to tear them apart instead of just ride them. We would jump over this brick wall and over that dirt hill and bash into a curb here and there..... and on and on............... So, would a 61 year old guy who treats the bike like a jewel, just riding it down smooth hard surfaced streets really going to tear them apart??? I know the 2 cycle vibration is a different dynamic than my childhood bike had to deal with but I'm interested to get a reality check on my friend's opinion on the Walmart Columbia ........... and a recommendation of where to buy a 66cc for about $160.....

  15. kgyrobotron

    kgyrobotron Member

    wally bike..

    Your bike has bigger tubing than my Kent. I remember 50 yrs ago too.lol. I'm first time builder also.. But like you say..take care of it. Don't drive 50 miles at top rpm vib'n every weld..shoot get up and build your bike. I've got a 4stroke so I don't need but bottom end torque.
  16. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    That is a nice looking bike, red and white would be cool too. Grease those bearings from the gitgo, they only dab a finger gob at the factory to grease them.
  17. Paul E.

    Paul E. Member

    Hold on, not so fast!

    The rear final drive 'rag joint' sprocket adapter that sandwiches the spokes should be tossed in the trash; engineering wise, its a terrible design but one that is widely used because it fits nearly every bike.

    For my money, this should be the first upgrade for any mb simply because it lines up the driveline perfectly, and eliminates to a large degree, the non-concentricity of the rag joint adapter. This makes a much smoother driveline, and relieves the irregular stressors on all bearings and clutch.

    As far as clutchs go, for simplicity sake, the cent clutch is twist and go, perfect for giving test rides, but the two-stroke clutch design I like also, because it simulates a motorcycle; IE, popping the clutch etc.

    I'm having trouble finding a good replacement for the OEM clutch thats included with the HS142 5/8 keyed straight shaft; its a bad design that doesn't look like it will outlive the motor.

    I agree with the previous poster who liked buying a bike with V brakes already on the bike. cheers, have fun!
  18. PocketBiker

    PocketBiker Member


    I really appreciate that advise! You know, I'm a rookie... and know very little..... so, I have to depend on the kindness of strangers.... but not on a street car...... a motored bicycle! I have been wondering about the "rag joint" drive. It's a done deal then............ I'll spend a few more sheckles, and spare my spokes! I believe, the sprocket adapter is $55. A happy bike, is a happy rider. (I don't need to add any needless vibration)

    And, I also liked what you had to say about the cent. clutch. So, are you saying, with the cent. clutch, you can't lift the rear tire and push down on the pedal to start the engine? This, I would like to do. So, I believe I'm correct, that with the cent. clutch, you must install the pull starter. Hell, I'm not building a lawn mower!

    I'm really quite dedicated in sticking with the 66cc 2 stroker though. Do you have a good tip as to where I should buy it. I would like to stay in the $160 range. BikeBerry has about three silver kits from $160-$190. I will discard a few pieces of the kit (like the rag drive and gas tank) But, the exhaust alone almost pays for the kit. I want to beef up the chain tensioner. I thought about combining a larger spring loaded lever like the one below and replace that small fiber wheel with the large, grooved BikeBerry wheel. With the sprocket adapter and the large tensioner wheel, It should make for a smooth running drive train.

    I'm redesigning my gas tank now.... expanding it's size, in readiness for an internal fiberglass tank. As for a vented gas cap.... are we just talking about a 1mm hole in the cap?


    $(KGrHqVHJFYFHmfkHjpoBR6bjvf),w~~60_57.jpg tensioner wheel.png
  19. Paul E.

    Paul E. Member

    Jim, I chose the smallest drill I had in a regular Dewalt drill set; it seems to be fine so long as I keep the gas below the filler neck.

    As for tensioners, my experienced bike-building buddy swears that the CNC sprocket adapter cures 90% of driveline issues, so he uses the stock tensioner.

    Yeah, once you get the cent clutch, the only way to start is pullstart; its fine with me, no issues. Before you get your adapter, be sure to ponder this:

    Do you want to use the stock wheel/rear hub permanently? My next main upgrade will be a rear wheel laced with heavy duty spokes and coaster brake..this is a different hub diameter that my smaller free-wheeling hub, so a sprocket adapter at this point makes no sense for me.

    By the way, I'm almost as new as you are at this, so take everything I say with a grain of salt, and double check my findings. Cheers!
  20. Paul E.

    Paul E. Member

    Forgot the 2stroke purchase question: I don't know where the best quality/cheapest price nexus is; some others here will know for sure.

    Some here will try to steer you to an aftermarket machinist who massages these motors for balance and power, but those motors cost hundreds more than what you are willing to spend at this point; not that they aren't worth it.