Hello, new here and looking for any and all help.

[FurryOnTheInside]

Damn, the frame has been drilled through for the front engine mount.

I was just going to say, I didn't bother with a kill switch at all. The choke lever can do that, as can setting the idle too low (which I did for now). It has helped me to keep the electrical connections to a minimum.


Yes it takes two stroke oil. Preferably synthetic or semi synthetic two stroke oil, for air cooled engines. Opinions vary on what ratios to use.

 

[Hickory n steel]

Damn, the frame has been drilled through for the front engine mount.

I was just going to say, I didn't bother with a kill switch at all. The choke lever can do that, as can setting the idle too low (which I did for now). It has helped me to keep the electrical connections to a minimum.


Yes it takes two stroke oil. Preferably synthetic or semi synthetic two stroke oil, for air cooled engines. Opinions vary on what ratios to use.

Thanks for the info.

Btw one thing I don't like about this thing is that someone else built it, if something is going to be cobbled / Jerry rigged together I like to be the one who did it so I know what it can take.
On the other hand if I screw it up I can blame it on the other guys s**t can assembly skills

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Thanks for the info.

Btw one thing I don't like about this thing is that someone else built it, if something is going to be cobbled / Jerry rigged together I like to be the one who did it so I know what it can take.
On the other hand if I screw it up I can blame it on the other guys sh*t can assembly skills

Not to be alarmist but
You might not be around to see who gets blamed if that frame splits in two while you are riding in traffic.

It would be wise to get a new frame or at least add some extra bracing and brackets to help prevent the jack hammer effect of the bolt that is piercing the downtube, or to stop the two ends of the bike drifting away from one another when the downtube does crack across this much weakened and stressed area.

 

[Hickory n steel]

Not to be alarmist but
You might not be around to see who gets blamed if that frame splits in two while you are riding in traffic.

It would be wise to get a new frame or at least add some extra bracing and brackets to help prevent the jack hammer effect of the bolt that is piercing the downtube, or to stop the two ends of the bike drifting away from one another when the downtube does crack across this much weakened and stressed area.

I probably won't rid the thing all the time, just cruise around the neighborhood once in a while.
Not like there's any traffic in my dinky little rural town.

This may not mean much but the bike appears to have been ridden a lot without issue.
There's a frame i left in my mom's shead that I can always grab next time to put everything on.
My brother was going to build it so he thought, but the kit his friend gave him is probably only 80% at the most.

 

[Tyler6357]

I would put a fuel line and your fuel filter in and mix gas and a good high quality semi synthetic 2 stroke oil at about 25x1 and see if it will start.

 

[Hickory n steel]

I would put a fuel line and your fuel filter in and mix gas and a good high quality semi synthetic 2 stroke oil at about 25x1 and see if it will start.

Will do.

 

[Hickory n steel]

Well atm it is a bike all together and rideable as a regular bycicle , a heavy one of course.

Hopefully it will be a functioning motorized bycicle when I can get a fuel line and some synthetic 2 stroke oil.
I tested the spark plugs and it works so that's one less thing to worry about.

 

[Tyler6357]

Well atm it is a bike all together and rideable as a regular bycicle , a heavy one of course.

Hopefully it will be a functioning motorized bycicle when I can get a fuel line and some synthetic 2 stroke oil.
I tested the spark plugs and it works so that's one less thing to worry about.

That's good, but I still recommend that you replace the spark plug boot with one that doesn't require you to remove the spark plug cap. The vibrations will eventually cause problems and it shouldn't cost you more than about $5. I've seen those cheap plastic ones melt!

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

That's good, but I still recommend that you replace the spark plug boot with one that doesn't require you to remove the spark plug cap. The vibrations will eventually cause problems and it shouldn't cost you more than about $5. I've seen those cheap plastic ones melt!

I'm sure my stock boot (that I never actually used) didn't require removing the cap, but my NGK non resistor boot that I upgraded to, did.

 

[Tyler6357]

I'm sure my stock boot (that I never actually used) didn't require removing the cap, but my NGK non resistor boot that I upgraded to, did.

Really? It always seemed strange to me to have to remove the cap, I never even seen one that required it until I got one of these cheap kits years ago. But I know that some kits give you better ones. One time, I had one that started arcing and actually melted the plastic which dripped down on the spark plug and head but that happened years ago. Also, I agree with you that it was stupid to drill holes in the frame to mount the engine, even worse if it's an aluminum frame.