Help choosing engine kit (please look - not noobie question)



Hey guys,

New to forum so HI!

(note: I always use Dax420 as my nickname on forums, I am not associated with ThatsDax and the name is not related to his engine kits)

I have read pretty much every thread on this board this past week so I believe I can speak knowledgeably on this subject. I also have been riding and repairing dirt bikes since I was 8. Please do not down talk me, use big words. ;)

I wanted an electric bike, but they are too expensive so now I want a motorized bike. I have an older MTN bike that I want to convert to a single speed commuter and add an engine kit to. The frame is aluminum, will this be a problem with these engine kits? I am worried about vibrations and stress fractures in the welds... But that's another question!

On to my question about choosing a kit. I found a local seller who is selling these engine kits on craigslist. The posting is here:

EDIT: new to fourm so I can't post URL's... Replace the DOT's with .'s to view the link. Sorry!

Unfortunately, this is the SAME seller who is so lovingly trashed on in the infamous "damaged cylinder" /review of Power-King 80 thread located in this forum.

So here is my dilemma. I can order a known quality kit from ThatsDax and have it shipped to my door for around $350CDN or I can settle for a known lesser quality kit from a local seller for $195CDN. That is quite the difference in price!!!

Now, I have 3 things going for me here:

1. I will be picking this engine up, so I can inspect it for obvious damage/quality issues before I fork over the money.

2. I can easily return the kit if it does not live up to my expectations... I live less than a 15 minute drive from the seller.

3. I know where he lives.................... :devilish:

Now, money is always an issue and I am quite poor at the moment so I am seriously considering going with the cheaper local kit. I came here so that you guys can talk me out of it.

hmmm.... being neighbors with this dealer, gives you some pull. In exchange for a $uper deal on a good running engine & service after the sale, you could mention a good report you could make to 300+ MBc'ers.
Just a thought....

welcome & good luck
Agree with Dave. Go for the bucks, do all the special tightenings you've learned, used fingernail polish instead of Locktite.

Get 12 gauge wheels for the rear, 40-45 bucks.

Oh, and at about 4:19 quit for the day. :cool:

Hi dax420,

i was the one in the thread mentioned above...they did me right by refunding me 100%. Since you are on the poorer side as i was too, why not give em a try so others in your neck of the woods can do the same. i will warn you however, that since what is pictured is not what you get, it's good to know you can find them close by to fix it. Personally, i think you will be replacing parts constantly as they are made sub quality in my opinion...good luck in all your endeavors.... :cool:

Yes they get smoother.

(edited because this joke was found to be creepy)

Keep on breaking in that engine. vary the throttle often for the next gallon. use a fuel filter (this will become my catchphrase soon) switch to 32:1 and finally 40:1

just make sure your seals are tight, no leaks. it will smooth out.

we found out here that different frames vibrate differently and it mostly has to do with the shape of the frame, and the material its made out of. so far i have not seen proof that a certain type of frame is better. sometimes you get lucky with one that absorbs the engine vibration and feels smoother, or get unlucky with a frame that amplifies the vibration. after the engines broken in. I you are still feeling alot of vibration, you might want to try installing it on another frame, just to be sure that its not all the engine.
Haha, go a head and search for my postings. I am a good boy... Digging up dirt on random forum strangers is kind of creepy though. :eek:

I think I will try to purchase the engine from the local seller and try to put it on this aluminum frame parts bike I have sitting around. I emailed the seller almost 6 hours ago with a question about his return policy and so far no response, not a good sign...

Question, the chain stays (both) on this frame kind of dish inward towards the wheel, its almost like they kinked it in the center. Will this cause clearance problems with the drive chain? Or does the drive chain go in between the top and bottom chain stay?I will try to get a picture tomorrow...

I will just buy the kit and if it wont fit this frame I will either search out a junker cruser bike or save the pennies for a chopper frame 8)
Oh and PS for anyone in BC reading this. I looked into it. These things are super illegal to use on the roads in BC. The electric guys messed up the pedal assist category so that your engine MUST be electric and less than 500 watts. Our bikes fall into the category of "limited speed motorbikes" you can not exceed 70Kph, 49cc, have lights, turn signals, horn and all that crap. You are also limited to a certain wheel size (smaller than 26" bike wheels :() you have to have insurance and register it as a moped. Basically, you have to make it into a tomos scooter.

I guess I will be living on the edge...
Dax420 said:
Haha, go a head and search for my postings. I am a good boy... Digging up dirt on random forum strangers is kind of creepy though. :eek:

No, it's a by-product of boredom. :D
briefly, if you're aware of the shortcomings & are willing to upgrade what's needed (as candidly laid out in "that" topic), you could use that kit.

remember, you can't do anything about the displacement discrepancy except grin & bear it, or pay more for more. the final cost of a sturdy & reliable kit could still be about the same either way. just more for the scales when you weigh your choices...keep us posted 8)