Help identifying part?

Oh @Cosmonaut another tip the OCC has holes/tabs in the bike for the rear brake to hide the cable, if you cut open the tab a little you can feed the throttle cable and if mem serves the clutch cable, this way you don't have to have them all feed down, less cable clutter and much more stealthy look especially for a OCC named Stealth :p
 
the front is easier, just a fork swap, but i'm lazy in that department and either go with none or drum brakes.


i should do a cruiser build instead of a OCC and see how it goes lol
 
the front is easier, just a fork swap, but i'm lazy in that department and either go with none or drum brakes.


i should do a cruiser build instead of a OCC and see how it goes lol
Yea but, then the addiction would be gone. My cruiser is so comfy, I can ride all day.
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Yea but, then the addiction would be gone. My cruiser is so comfy, I can ride all day.
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does the end of that exhaust hit the ground or grind when going over railroad tracks at all being so close to the ground like that?? i gotta know. other then that I love the way it looks except for that black side panel that throws me off a little.
 
No the exhaust doesn't touch the ground ever. It's just the angle of the pic. I'm thinking of remodeling it so the muffler runs along the rear dropout. I was going to put a sticker on the panel and painted it black to outline it but changed my mind. I think I'm going to sand it to a polished chrome finish.
 
Chainlube said:
My cruiser is so comfy, I can ride all day.
And im hoping for your safety in doing so as well...I notice that your using caliper type brake on rear wheel...The entities selling these mags for motorised bikes are now starting to run these warning in their sites when selling these mags to M/Bers...They are trying to avoid more law suits regarding wheel failure causing injury and worse that has been resulting from caliper type brake usage on these rims...DAMIEN
WARNING: MAG WHEELS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO BE COMPATIBLE WITH CALIPER BRAKES. USE OF CALIPER BRAKES THAT STOP USING FRICTION PLACED ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE RIM EDGE MAY RESULT IN PREMATURE FAILURE OF THE RIM.
 
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if you haven't bought any chain, you can go buy some basic #41 chain from your local hardware store or any store that deals with lawn mowers.

you have to make sure the chain is lined up with the motor the occ is very picky... aligning the sprocket is easy for the occ so if its off straighten it out :p


your running your chain under which works but if you want a CLEANER run, run the chain under the brake arm so the brake cable goes between the chain, you use less chain this way also.

If you need a tensioner use it right before the sprocket at a angle and run the chain above the brake post

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when it comes to your shavings just clean it, grease everything upon installing bar and make sure chain is tight and aligned. :3

also when you get the $$$ get rid of that Barry Mount PLEASE and get CNC mounts.
Wow, thank you for this info! A couple questions: do you have a photo of your entire bike? Would love to see how this type of setup looks.

to be honest, my main goal as a total beginner here is to get the bike running properly again before I start rearranging the setup

When I dumped the bike, I believe it knocked the tensioner off which resulted in the original chain popping

I am trying to get my setup exactly how it was when I bought it just so I can get back to it at least functioning.

I will then move on to asking you what is a Barry mount and why do I not want it haha

also, I need to ask what the correct fuel ratio should be? I’ve been seeing about 32:1 for a broken in engine like mine. The dude who sold it to me said “it takes a 70/30 mixture” which made zero sense to me so I have not taken that advice.
 
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