Help me diagnose this, please?

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by Rainsawck!, Apr 21, 2009.

  1. Rainsawck!

    Rainsawck! Member

    Hey guys. Here I am again. :icon_cry:

    So for the past two days I've been trying desperately to start my Schwinn Delmar Motorized bike. Each time, I peddle my bicycle up to about 5-6 mph (With the Clutch handle pulled in), then, when I release the Clutch bar, the engine turns over around 7-10 times, and the engine must be fighting it pretty hard because every time it pulls my pulley system for my engine chain straight into the wheel. When I hit a dead stop, I smell what basically smells like fire. Like a moth ran into a stove burner.

    I have adjusted my Carb idle screw, checked my CDI wires, remounted my sprocket and realigned it, Checked my fuel lines, reset my spark plug... You name it. I'm not looking for a straight "HERE'S YOUR PROBLEM" answer, I just need some opinions as to what to check...

    Can anyone tell me what this sounds like?

    P.S. - I checked the "ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE" in the "Newb" section, and I have absolutely no idea what this means :

    2. Check for spark with lead on plug and earth spark plug on cylinder head fin.

    Lift the rear wheel, and give it one good hard pedal down as if you are
    kick-starting a bike. If plug sparks at the tip, re-install the spark plug.

    If this is where I need to be going, can someone please elaborate?

    Thank you guys. Pictures available upon request, if you'd like.


  2. Might be the clutch needs alot more adjustment might be burning the pads on it as your actually pedaling. Will it move forward easily with the clutch lever pulled in a locked? If not you need to take off the cable and move in the brass stopper about an 1/2 inch or so then tighten and have a friend push in on the clutch arm while you try to attach the cable in. Kinda hard at times,then on the engine there is a adjustment that screws out also acts as a cable guide..screw this out to pull in on clutch to fine tune. Hope this is your problem. If not let me know. Ive got 3 under my belt so far and have seen some strange stuff lol. Also on your pulling chain tensioner into wheel. You may have to drill a small hole and put a bolt through it. I never have yet but others have, I put rubber in between them or just on one side for a little extra bite and tighten the **** out of em ,one guy i know on his build put black tape on first to build up the space and his did not hold it did what yours is doing . I took all the tape off and put a small rubber strip on it and tightend it up with no more problem. Hang in there sometimes its ruff but it will be worth it in the end. Trust me
  3. Rainsawck!

    Rainsawck! Member

    The bike peddles pretty well with the clutch pulled in, but I'm going to try to tighten it anyway, with the clutch pulled in it's only a TAD bit harder to peddle than it used to be Pre-Engine mounting.

    I just got fed up with the tensioner and am going to remove it, as I have one of those... Straight slots on the back frame for attaching the rear wheel, just going to pull it back really hard. That should work, right? It's a 36 Tooth sprocket.

    I just broke my third bike chain tonight, so I get to wait until tomorrow to try to fire it up again. :shout:

    I wish I could just ride this **** thing :icon_cry: ...

    Here comes day 5 in my "EASY, 2-3 HOUR INSTALLATION!" :rolleyes7:
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2009
  4. Does the bike roll back and forth with clutch in and locked very easy? Not by peddaling just rolling with you beside it. Which chain broke the bike or the motor chain? Maybe you should post some pics of the setup might be able to see something that way , maybe an alignment problem or something . As far as pulling the wheel back to tighten chain on motor that will work if your bike chain will tighten up the same or it might not let you pull it back far enough. You could put a chain tensioner on the bike chain instead of motor seen that done too. Take a break from it and cool down, theres nothing that cant be figured out just takes time. Its a hobby not a race lol.
  5. cooltoy

    cooltoy Member

    Your idea with the chain is fine. It's also a lot quieter not having that chain flopping around.If possible , try to have a little room to slide the wheel back in the future.
    As for your question , if you remove the spark plug and lay it on the engine with the wire attached, it should spark as you turn the motor over. "Earth" (or Ground) is the engine and the wire is "hot" (or positive). It's very simple and turning the motor over is really easy with the plug removed. You want to face the plug in a way that lets you see the tip as you spin the motor over. You want to see a nice spark and may even hear the spark snap.

    As for not starting, are you "tickling" the carb by pushing the little button down a few times. It's on the left side of carb and pushes down. Also you need the choke up/on to start these babies. I think when you fix the chain, you will have better luck.
  6. mbike1

    mbike1 New Member

    Clutch problems too

    I can't get my clutch to release. I've tried removing cable and moving the arm with a pipe as suggested. This does move the arm but it still seems it requires considerable force. How far should the arm move? I can't move any farther because my pipe hits the bike vertical tube. With the pipe on and holding the arm inward, I tried to move the rear wheel and it is still locked up.
  7. cooltoy

    cooltoy Member

    Try to keep in mind that there is a huge amount of spring fighting you.
    These pics may help

    Attached Files:

  8. Yeah it needs to go in pretty far ,also if you oil your cable from the top and let it run down inside cable it will take alot of the pressure it takes to operate it. I just used some wd 40 on mine it worked alot lot easier.
  9. KR4WM

    KR4WM New Member

    I realize I'm hitting this thread two months late- I'll try to help if I can (assuming you haven't yet figured out the problem?). Let me know if you're up and running or still sitting on the sidelines. If you got it fixed, what was the problem? My first guess would be that you flooded the engine and the cylinder is full of fuel/oil. -Web
  10. Rainsawck!

    Rainsawck! Member

    My throttle was installed incorrectly :)

    Excuse my layman's terminology, but to be as specific as possible, the small grey cylinder that goes down into the top of the carb was sitting on top of a small protruding notch that was supposed to slide into the cylinder. It wasn't down all the way, once I figured it out and got it inside, it was up running (to be honest, like a possessed monster the first couple runs, still needed some fine tuning.) and I've been working with it to get it more tuned over the past few weeks. Thank you for the help, though.
  11. KR4WM

    KR4WM New Member

    I think I understand- sounds like a mis-assembled carburetor. It's kind of odd that it would present with the symptoms you describe though. Usually if a carb is stuck WAO (wide *** open) it gives too lean of a fuel mixture to a cold engine, and the engine will turn over easily but never start. Especially with a new engine with rings that have not yet seated and hasn't built up full compression. It sounded like the engine was locking up on you and difficult to turn over- which is why I assumed the cylinder was full of liquid. But- great to hear you got it up and running! I guess if the float was stuck open even if the carb piston was all the way up it might have caused flooding which would give the symptoms you were seeing. I haven't gotten my engine kit yet (will arrive in about four more days) so I'm not totally familiar with these bike engines yet. But I worked at the local Harley shop as a wrench for about a year, and owned a small engine repair shop for a couple of years. I'm retired now so am looking for something to fiddle with. One of these motorized bicycles sounded like it might be just the ticket! -Web
  12. Rainsawck!

    Rainsawck! Member

    Yes, it was definately a challenge, I had no previous mechanical experience, and it smoked me several times. But once it was all finished, it was definately worth it.

    I was DEFINATELY stuck in WOT the first couple runs, scared the **** out of me. It may have been changing the spark plug that did the final trick, as I did blame it at first. It may have been luck for all I know.

    I nearly crashed at about 20 miles an hour and a coaster brake going down a residential road (WOT stuck first run) , that would have been a good way to meet the neighbors, huh?
  13. Hawaii_Ed

    Hawaii_Ed Member

    yikes! Get some brakes on the sucker! Congrats on getting it running!