Help!! My bike won't stay on anymore

[Bbish]

I found the leak when I first built the bike it always leaked from one corner of the bottom of the cylinder but it still worked great I was just tired of it leaking and when it didn't start up the other day I just figured maybe I should change it to see if that was the problem. But I found out that my bolts were loose in the bottom of the motor so I tightened them with some pillars and that seemed to fix it but the day before it stopped working I topped off my tank with the rest of my mixture . Then the next day it wouldn't start. I also noticed that the plug was straight black when I took apart the motor.

 

[Frankenstein]

Oil ratio?
First, drain the carb of gas if you can, and let it refill with fresh gas. I found in my experience that when I left a bike sit and it was just warm enough the bowl will fill with gas, and evaporate the gas leaving oil behind, and then more gas in, more oil left. It would feel like it was impossible to start if the fuel was left on in certain weather.

Also examine your tank a bit? Caster oil falls out of gasoline at low Temps. Depending on your oil type and weather your oil could be settling out in the carb and tank, giving you just too oily gas. Shake the bike back and forth a bit to mix up the gas before you attempt to start if you think that your oil is settling, run some fresh(er) fuel to the carb and give it a go.

If it's not your fuel then carb is going to need help. If it suddenly got warmer were you live and ride, the carb being tuned in for the cold will run kinda blah... You mentioned not touching it after getting the idle right. Could be clogged? Check for metal bits in the carb bowl if needed.

I had a problem like yours, really did the run down for a leak. Turns out I had small metal bits and dirt like stuff in my carb bowl. It made the bike run very bad.

Filter? How's the air filter look? Sometimes if your too rich or too much oil (black spark plug) the engine spits back and coats the filter in oil. This is especially bad with the Dellorto clones with the cloth/paper/screen filter it usually comes with. It litteraly soaks up oil and chokes the bike out on wide open throttle.

Maybe take the filter off for a moment and try to start, if it looks like it could be oily on the inside of the filter then it might be just that. Even my lawnmower has this problem when the dust caught up in the filter. Same with atvs and many other vehicles.

I do recommend getting a new filter if yours is dirty. Or get carb clean and clean it out. Wait a few minutes to let the filter dry out nicely before you try starting.

Sometimes it's just not where you think it is. Spark plug connected right? Gotta love forgetting to hook that up and try starting... Pass the inhaler please.

Check how tight it is on the plug. You certainly pulled it off to take the engine apart right? Double check that just in case, maybe the spring clip inside turned sideways

 

[crassius]

the leak from front left bolt under cylinder is common - add a washer or o-ring to that case bolt - it does not indicate a base gasket leak

 

[Frankenstein]

He means stack a washer or 2 on the stud before adding the nut, this prevents it from bottoming out and stopping before it can fully press on the head. I went to Lowe's with my bike, unbolted the head nut from my bike and brought it in since I couldn't find a match in my nut and bolt collection. Then I matched it on sight and bought lock washers and matching nuts that didn't have an "acorn" on top. Then torqued it back on and rode home, swapped nuts and washers.

 

[KCvale]

No I do not have a torque wrench but...

There are no buts. You either have the required tool to do a job right, or you don't.

..when I took the motor apart I did not notice any cracks or warping.

Of course not, you weren't looking for any, and I doubt you even put the head on a true flat surface and checked it but neither here nor there for this topic...

I replaced the gasket with a higher quality one because the stock one was leaking even when the bolts where tight. They are the same thickness

Again, you don't know if the bolts are tightened correctly without the tool that tells you how tight they are but that is not what concerns me the most...

Since you pulled the jug off my guess is most of your problems are related to how competent you were putting the engine back together. e.g. the Rings!

In short here, you can't 'adjust' your way around a screwed up engine, either replace it and never open the new one, or actually learn how these little engines work and get the tools required to repair/improve them dude is my advice.

 

[Bbish]

I think it maybe my fuel mixture because I just toped off the tank with the last of my mix(16-1) so I'll drain it and put a freshly mixed ratio

 

[Frankenstein]

I think it maybe my fuel mixture because I just toped off the tank with the last of my mix(16-1) so I'll drain it and put a freshly mixed ratio

Or you could listen to kc and everyone else...

 

[Bbish]

First I took off the head made sure the seal was good and checked the head for any cracks or warping, then I checked for comparison and there is compression, then I cleaned out the inside of the carb like you guys said, and then after that I put new gas in . And finally I went to unscrew the magnito housing and a soon as the screw started loosening the water started to run out of it... so I opened it up and tried to dry it out with a hair dryer for like 45 minutes but when I assembled it it did the same thing so I think I'm gonna buy a new magnito

 

[Frankenstein]

Water for certain right? Crank seal leak on that side is common.

Pot your next mag with some cheap epoxy.

 

[Bbish]

I think it is water it was definitely not oil or gas, but the liquid did smell weird and had a yellowish color too it