Help please!

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by jim_himself, Apr 8, 2010.

  1. jim_himself

    jim_himself Member

    After a near death experience on my motorized bike due to the chain jamming and tearing through my gearbox, causing my motor mounts to be destroyed and the entire engine to come loose, tear my fuel line, and soak the whole thing in gas, all while going 25mph or so I've decided to switch a friction drive. They seem to be much more reliable. I'm going to purchase a motor for BMP's friction drive kit and would like to know what you more experienced riders think is the best motor out of the following:

  2. machiasmort

    machiasmort Active Member

    You got LLLUCCKY Bro!!!

    A lot of guy's speak highly of the HF motors. I havn't been on much but I think you have to adapt the carb on them or something?
  3. loquin

    loquin Active Member

    If you can find one, a (genuine) Mitsubishi TLE43 is a good choice in the two-cycle side. It's reliable and strong.

    It's also hard to beat the Honda or Robin/Suburu 35cc 4-stroke motors for reliability and ease of use. (not having to pre-mix is a plus)
  4. jim_himself

    jim_himself Member

    I found one of the mitsubishi motors for about $165. it is a bit too small though I'm looking for as much power as i can get.
  5. jim_himself

    jim_himself Member

  6. a/c man

    a/c man Member

    looks good to me

    I don't own one personally, but it looks mighty sweet to me.
    I think you have more money to fool around with than I do.
    So from my standpoint go for it and let us all know what
    we are missing out on. Don,t forget the pictures

  7. seanhan

    seanhan Member

    Check out

    The Tanaka 33 cc for 2 stroke
    and the robin 35 for 4 stroke
    it's that simple with either of these you won't be in the engine repair business at all !!!!! They both offer unmatched quality and value, you can get cheaper but after seeing what the cheap kit got you why ??
  8. give me vtec

    give me vtec Active Member

    good advice... I couldn't agree more.
  9. jim_himself

    jim_himself Member

    Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll have the rest of the money for my build in about two weeks (garage sale week in my hood) then I'll order the parts and start the build.
  10. jim_himself

    jim_himself Member

    ill try to post lots of pics
  11. RusticoRay

    RusticoRay Member

  12. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    A few brave souls and I have run this engine with varying degrees of success. My experience had been with friction drive. If you search this forum you will find valuable information regarding this GP460 engine.
  13. seanhan

    seanhan Member

    here is a Tanaka on sale !!!

    *** note *** on the Tanaka you can flip engine so the gas cap is on top and you can fill the tank all the way to the cap. You can't do this with a 4 stroke becuse there is crankcase oil on a 4 stroke... and it will run out into the air cleaner and make a big mess...

    It's the little things !!!!
  14. seanhan

    seanhan Member

  15. jim_himself

    jim_himself Member

    Thanks for all of your help everyone! After all of my research I decided to go with the gp460 motor. The next step in my build is to figure out the best way to beef-up the friction drive mounting kit.:grin5:
  16. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

  17. jim_himself

    jim_himself Member

    thanks for the link, hadn't found that one yet, has lots of great info:grin5:
  18. jim_himself

    jim_himself Member

    I'm thinking that the way I'm going to strengthen the mounting is by adding several struts and thickening the U-braket, as well as triangulating the entire thing.:eek:
  19. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    My first intent was also to brace, triangulate and strengthen the U-bracket. After the project got started, I found it unecessary. However, I DID replace the rear struts to "old-style" Staton single on each side.

    That REALLY held the roller solidly onto the tire

    This GP460 doesn't have a lot of pull at low end. But once it kicks into high rpm, you will feel a VERY powerful KICK! The engine does NOT like to climb hills, but runs like heck on flat ground.

    I tried 1.25" rollers, also 1.375" and 1.5" rollers on my BMP friction drive. Maybe I should've tried 1" and 1.125" rollers.

    Engine noise got to me at steady 10,500rpm on the road.:ack2:

    I'm a glutton for punishment and might try this GP460 engine on a shift kit.:whistling:
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 10, 2010
  20. jim_himself

    jim_himself Member

    I'm hopefully going to order the friction drive and the motor next weekend:D Can't wait to put it together, I will hopefully find a way to improve its low end performance, but its not biggy if I can't since its pretty flat around here.

    It's going on my gary fisher or timberline gt bike. Can't decide which one since the fisher has been very beat up, missing some paint and scratched pretty bad but it shifts very smoothly:grin5: The timberline is much prettier though.

    Also between the friction drives I was thinking the BMP, but is the staton one better?

    Another thing I was wondering what you were saying on your thread about the compression head and the gas...... I intend to leave the engine almost entirely stock and want to make sure I can just give it the 93octane gas.
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2010