Help predator 212 on trike.

Eternalchilde

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Hi guys first time posting here. I've been an mb enthusiast for a minute now got into it to get away from cars and govt control lol. Anywho I've ridden a 66cc for a while now and with winter coming I decided to get serious on a more reliable daily driver that hopefully won't kill me if I hit ice. So I know nothing about the four stroke builds. I have a predator 212 motor and an old tomahawk industrial trike super heavy duty. It has a 7/8" solid axle motor cycle spokes long frame it's a beast! Anywho it has 20" rims on the back. I'm thinking either hook directly onto the axle or possible the rear "hub" where the chain switches. Lol now that I bragged about my new toys :) my main question will I need a gear reducer torque averter cvt or will I be able to direct drive it? Oh I'm planning on mounting the motor in the back under the flat bed on it. I'm trying to load some pictures still figuring that out.
 
Also if I can do a direct drive setup is there a sprocket you'd recommend for the predator motor.
 
Do you live in a hilly or flat area? That'll help tons in deciding gear ratios. Also keep in mind that you should never brake as you turn or you risk flipping with trikes.
 
Not too hilly I live in Ohio. I'm hoping to travel with it though so I will be climbing some hills with cargo. Between myself the bike the motor and all my gear I'll probably be sitting around 400-500 lbs which might seem like to much for a bike to carry but I'm pretty sure this trikes mother was a tractor :) And most the weight will be sitting over the rear axle. I might get a trailer too to distribute the load. I'm not too worried about speed I don't wanna go fast on a trike sounds like a recipe for disaster. Thanx for the warning about breaking in the corners im planning on turning like a grandma anyways. It's a one wheel peel right now but I've been thinking about switching the free spinning wheel to a direct drive setup. I know that would hurt handling some but I'm curious how much. It would be way better for stopping and going and going straight lol I imagine that motors gonna make it want to turn a bit.
 
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Here is the best choice, http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=179 They also have the sprockets. This you drive form the center and both wheels drive, as well as brake if you put a disk on other side. ( Sprocket with teeth removed ) These were made for Lawn tractors and later used in go-karts. With that big of motor you wont need a CVT just a jack shaft to reduce, and it also make for easy gear changing by just changing sprockets. There is a gear chart on the forum check it out for ratio & speed, ............................Curt
Another: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_35768_35768
 
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Well.. 212 is going to punch out enougg torque to give you wheelies off the line and top speeds of 45mph all on the same gear, so I wouldn't worry about what gear you'll be using.

That differential posted is pretty freaking sweet, up to 600lbs on the axles! I'm rather curious about it since I've been contemplating a trike but couldn't find a good design of a differential to copy or buy.. Certainly a good idea to toy with.
 
Yes they are and really work well, the old lawn tractor version was 3/4" shaft, but need 2 of them to make one as they had a short axle on one side. Both wheels pull till you go around a corner then the slip, also need a bearing next to the diff. and one outboard by the wheel. Not sure on this 1" as it is heavy duty............Curt
 
Thank you for the differential advice! I might have found a used one on an old go kart! Im tempted to just get a half finished go kart and steal all the components off of it. Since it looks like I'll model be using go kart parts. Still not sure if I'm gonna go with a jack shaft or a cheap knock off tav. Between the clutch and jack shaft it's about the same price and the tav looks like it will be easy to setup. Im thinking I'm gonna try to get it built with the solid axle and try to get the differential for it later. I'm not sure if the 1" will work without having to change all my bearings and the wheels the axle I have now is 7/8 and the sprocket for pedaling is dead center. I'd have to cut my current axle and the new axles and figure out a way to connect them off center.
 

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I se i miss qued on the other site , here is the correct one: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_35768_35768 A little cheaper, you could turn down the axle ends to fit your wheels.
Doing live axle is not to good with big wheels, as will scrub ( bind ) to much and bind in turns. That's why they have only one wheel drive now, it does ok on go karts because of the power ratio and small wheels.
I have a Worksman trike and it really pulls to the left just when pedaling, and if you hit the brakes it pulls to the left. Would not be good with a motor on, some are doing it and get by but i sure wouldn't. At 76 i can get it up on two wheels and balance it, in other words it to high and should have wider axle, to be stable, with motor on it.

Take a look at these ,they used to race them https://www.google.com/search?q=189...AhUJwlQKHS4BBBYQ9QEINzAB#imgrc=qIsCzjk2UrnAyM: And are shorter and wider. There was some old Schwinn ( i beleive ) trikes that had differentials, chain to the center and sprocket out on the end, then chain back to each wheels, but not sure if it was a true differential.

I would say if you are serious about it do it right in the first place and save money in the long run, CVT would be the better as you have a variable to start with, then level out on top, just get the proper sprockets to start with.............Curt
 
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