Sprockets Help ! Threw a key on engine sprocket

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by WIZARDOFOZONE, Oct 23, 2007.

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  1. Oh man, bad day today. I had a suspicion the other day that I hadn't really tightened the nut down very tight on the engine drive sprocket. Today, the key jumped the shaft slot and has made a mess of the slot, the key, and threads on the clutch drive shaft. I looked at the listed parts at King's and Dax but no shaft, Anybody know where I can get a replacement clutchshaft that holds the engine drive sprocket ?

  2. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    There is one other last choice thing you can do. I have done it many times.
    Find your local machine shop, have them weld up your keyway with low carbon rod then have the mill out the keyway again. Use new keystock.
    Shouldn't take but a few minutes. not counting setup time.
  3. azbill

    azbill Active Member

  4. thatsdax

    thatsdax Guest


    Yep... Got to weld it now....
  5. Thanks everyone for the help,and thanks Augi for referring me to the identical problem in an old post ... threads aren't really gone,the nut does tighten but I'll need the key slot cut for sure .... all in all the welding seems like the best overall way,especially since it seems to me that there is little concern that the clutch shaft can no longer be removed for other reasons or other work if parts arent available anyway for related work in that engine area. New clutch pads or pressure plate only requires installation from the other side no ? Luckily it couldn't be more fortunate that the storage space guy right next door to me has 3 different kinds of welding machines and has offered help in the past ! Couple of 6 packs ought to get this thing done !! .... thanks again everybody !!
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2007
  6. japat100

    japat100 Guest

    a dremel tool ,you can get 1 inch grinding disk ,very handy and should grind out or repair a key way ,after you fill the bad spots with gas weld ,, dermel tool is quite expensive but if you check local hardware you will find other names tools that work good and less them half the price ,,

    the key itself should be softer then the shaft so if something does happen it should just shear off and not destroy the shaft
  7. HoughMade

    HoughMade Guest

    The Dremel may be expensive- but I've had the cheaper ones (notice the past-tense). The Dremel is worth it.
  8. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    I didn't think about it but why couldn't you just take it to a machine shop and have them cut a new keyway 90 degrees from the old one. I don't think it matters where the keyway is on the shaft.
  9. I have several Dremel kits. I considered cutting a keyslot opposite the other slot too and I agree, I don't think it matters ... 2 things are stopping me .... of the many cutting tips I have or ever recall seeing, nothing to my knowledge gives that square channel cut a keyslot has. The cutting wheels are the closest and a continued straight down slow cut might be possible ... one good thing about deciding to weld it is it couldnt much hurt anything to try a keyway cut I guess .... the 2nd thing is how the heck much work is it to pull that shaft ? another type of puller ? anyone ever pulled one ?
  10. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Hey Wizard,
    You don't pull the shaft, you pull everything else off the shaft. You definately will have to open the cases. I guess if you have the room you could leave it together and use dremel cut off discs but you can throw accuracy out the window. You would probably end up welding it anyway.
    Note: remember to pour cool oil over the shaft and sprocket after welding to keep it's temper.
  11. Welding the engine sprocket

    Well, it was a scary morning for awhile, I stress easily over things not experienced before and I was certain I'd hear something like "oh,this is chinese 687 test metal ,totally unweldable !" or some similar migrane producing news ... But, no problem and in fact it might have been helpful because I noticed that since we were welding it the care taken to be certain it was seated straight caused more care with centering and locking it all the way to the back of the shaft. To be honest, I do believe I have previousely been fooled by the resistence of the woodruff key and have probably not been torqing the nut as tightly as I should have, because it appears a lot closer to the rear of the shaft now and the chain floats smoothly. All in all I'm glad that scare is over.
  12. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Dang, now I feel relieved too. Thats good news Wiz. Sounds like they aligned it good then tacked it, then welded it. Thats the way. Only way better would be to clamp it but no real place to do that.
    Hopefully now that it's welded it will last you a few thousand miles.
  13. Thanks Doc. Ya, I think the welder did a great job, I was expecting a peanut butter looking ring all around and had made plans even before going that I was coming back to the shop for some serious grinding cleanup work .... turns out he made 3 perfect 'spokes' radiating from the shaft to about a 1/4 inch onto the sprocket. perfect, it looked like the sprocket was molded that way. Tell ya something else too, that clutchshaft is REAL decieving ... since I knew fooling around with the scarred keyway couldn't hurt (since I was getting it welded anyway,) I used the Dremel tip that is kind of silver white like a diamond dust file, and is a sharp pointed cone . Yikes ! I thought at first the shaft was only aluminum because it cut so fast I actually had started a pinhole near the end of the keyslot. Knowing that welding aluminum was probably not going to happen I grabbed a shop magnet just to be sure it is made of steel. I was grateful to see the shavings clinging to the magnet. Very thin,and very soft for steel I do believe.
  14. Dockspa1

    Dockspa1 Guest

    Thats scary! Almost Pot Metal!