Help with Digital Tachometer 4 Wires.

This is going to be the best way other than useing the extra mag type...ton of wires.. You don't want to connect anything to the sparker mag searching for a signal on 12V AC and a milliamp of power...
I understand that but that won't solve my issue regarding not adding another gauge to my already full handlebar lol as well as keeping the battery fully charged. Hence why i went ahead and bought the Rectifier
 
Ok so new things have happened recently. I did connect blue/white to the black coil and it robbed all my spark from the coil so in my need to get to work i did not attempt to mess with it any more and disconnected blue/white wire for time being. Went ahead and ordered a voltage regulator online to hopefully get past this mess. Its a 4 wire Rectifier, regulator. Now this being said, is this blue/white wire from the tach going to connect to the voltage regulator? Or is that still going to block the proper pulses? The only reason im not willing to get another tach is i dont want a million wires running down to my motor and this tach already has all the functions minus a temp gauge

Voltage Makeithappener on Jungle Web.
Hook it to tack lead on rectifier im sure that's where it needs to be. But you might need a small 12volt battery in system as well.
 
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Hook it to tack lead on rectifier im sure that's where it needs to be. But you might need a small 12volt battery in system as well.
Tach lead? remember its a 4 wire setup two go to the coil and mag and 2 go straight to my 12v AGM Battery. Im starting to think i should have bought this other regulator that has a tach sensor like you just mentioned.
 
Tach lead? remember its a 4 wire setup two go to the coil and mag and 2 go straight to my 12v AGM Battery. Im starting to think i should have bought this other regulator that has a tach sensor like you just mentioned.
Yeah you might be right, I would have to go look, on my couple mopeds, 1 has tach & the other 1 dont. The 1 that dont have tach is a 4 pin regulator, & I'm sure the 1 moped with the tach has a 5 pin regulator on it.
 
Why couldn't you get a pulse from this and leave the sparker mag completely alone... It's only enough to power a USB port...1.0
 

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Why couldn't you get a pulse from this and leave the sparker mag completely alone... It's only enough to power a USB port...1.0
I thought about it but then there is also the Law of conservation of energy. Which would mean more wear on said magneto. I naturally assumed this due to the extra coil needing a source to be magnetized from. So i was going to eventually get one of those Yanmar diesel tractor 20 amp magnetos to mount elsewhere to the shaft altogether, However those are currently worth a dime right now so i am just making do.

I also am still tuning the motor itself and finding what makes it more reliable before i add too many more things to it, as of last night it has started a ping or tick noise that increases with rpms and gets drowned out with the exhaust pipe, Taking it apart i discovered my cylinder wall has become scuffed quite a bit and the sad part was this was a new cylinder body and piston. Piston was slapping sideways maybe? Rings clipping?

Even closer inspection it seems my rings and piston are not of same quality and size as the stocks, Stock rings look like they have chrome plating or are smoother, these new ones and piston are more rough, and the inside of the piston seems to have more of a curve to the connecting rod bearings seat. Inside the cylinder wall at the bottom on the edges of the ports it looks like the rings may have been clipping somehow as i see jagged edges and abrasion that previously was not there. Quite a headache these china-girls can be. Seems like pistons and rings are just pumped out like Pokemon cards these days.
 
I thought about it but then there is also the Law of conservation of energy. Which would mean more wear on said magneto. I naturally assumed this due to the extra coil needing a source to be magnetized from. So i was going to eventually get one of those Yanmar diesel tractor 20 amp magnetos to mount elsewhere to the shaft altogether, However those are currently worth a dime right now so i am just making do.

I also am still tuning the motor itself and finding what makes it more reliable before i add too many more things to it, as of last night it has started a ping or tick noise that increases with rpms and gets drowned out with the exhaust pipe, Taking it apart i discovered my cylinder wall has become scuffed quite a bit and the sad part was this was a new cylinder body and piston. Piston was slapping sideways maybe? Rings clipping?

Even closer inspection it seems my rings and piston are not of same quality and size as the stocks, Stock rings look like they have chrome plating or are smoother, these new ones and piston are more rough, and the inside of the piston seems to have more of a curve to the connecting rod bearings seat. Inside the cylinder wall at the bottom on the edges of the ports it looks like the rings may have been clipping somehow as i see jagged edges and abrasion that previously was not there. Quite a headache these china-girls can be. Seems like pistons and rings are just pumped out like Pokemon cards these days.
I would suggest taking the sharp edge off the rings I got caber rings but haven't tryed them...
 
I would suggest taking the sharp edge off the rings I got caber rings but haven't tryed them...
I noticed my stock rings are thicker and can fill the groove that holds the rings in place more then the new rings i got with replacement. That's when i figured that maybe my rings were slaping inside the groove as the piston completed a motion causing my ping noise. Did a fingernail test on the scratches and i feel like there is still some life left in the cylinder.

Going to try something probably frowned upon and see if these stock rings will perform on the new piston better than the these new rings. I will note i did sit down and attempt to polish the rings without chancing any crazy scratches and then decided to flush my entire my motor jug out with WD40, Which i will say is a amazing way to find any leaks if you have any and can show you just how much trash is actually in the motor and damn was it filthy, I can only guess that's what has probably been causing my scuffed cylinder walls. And i had a Crankcase bearing behind the magneto leaking like no tomorrow, i took a socket and mallet and leveled the seal out and it stopped the leak just hoping its not too tight now. It made turning it over a bit more stiff.

Its currently on its 2nd bath soaking for a while then i will drain and give it a oil bath to wash the wd40 out. Regulator parts came in and cant wait to see if i can finally get this bloody tach to work or if i should cave and look for a better one.
 
You know I have a little tuning tach that has it's own battery, it has a cable that just wraps around the plug wire. Is one of your wires coming from your tach like that, maybe the black one?
 
Note to self: Do not ever tap the bearings in on the crank shaft. I may have fixed my leak, but I'm pretty sure I just misaligned my crank and now it is in need of truing. Felt like throwing it over the balcony and just buying a racing engine as a whole. But the wallet is looking kinda depressing right now so maybe we wont throw it out just yet.....
I may have just opened pandoras box of problems with this china girl. Been spending a lot of time measuring and spinning my crank for the past few days trying my absolute hardest to get it centered again without any kind of wobble. Not easy when your Clutch Gear Remover tool is on a shipping delay..... I think my motor is cursed. I can remove the wobble to a small degree, but boy is she hard to turn by hand, and if I find a way to free the stress from the bearings, well, then my crank is off center. Betting its even bent. Cant believe I went from needing a tach wire to needing a new crankshaft.
 
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