help with the clutch/sprocket shaft

[insane engines]

I can get one or the other to come out of the case to the point it needs to be for the key and nut. But not both sides. It is one or the other??

Does this shaft flex or just the spring?? This is nothing short of pure madness! Telling me there is some type of trick to installing this shaft and have it with equal length coming out of both sides.

This is on a yd-100 lower end that comes with a phantom that I got from bicycle engines.com and have fought with ever since.

When this engine showed up with bad shaft bearings for this exact shaft. I replaced all the bearings after a fight to get the factory ones out.

I heated up the cases in the oven at which time they went in far better than they didn't want to leave. And it came with one cylinder stud with the nut way over tightened which crushed the to few threads. I got those repaired using s die of the right thread pattern.

However then I found out trying to get the top end on that that stud and another on that same side were both Bent. Making the cylinder both sit up off the case and almost impossible to get the cylinder back off at which time I told that shop I wanted to return it. Only to get put off and this was supposed to have a six-month warranty. So much for that and this engine gets even worse.

When they advertise it having a stuffer crank and it clearly does not. But open holes in the flywheels. Then what good is stuffing the flywheels with the open feed ramps for transfer ports that are not made for that in this cylinder?

This engine a mess as far as I am concerned. Another real issue is the fact the ring gap runs through the ports and not on closed surface. I thought they delt with any ring hangup Clearly did not. So I chamfered the ring edges. That were squared of now are rounded. I hope this helps. The last thing I at all want is any type of scared cylinder.

The last issue on this engine is the cooling fins that are really lacking. IF to rework any engine like they made claim to. Why not do it right. Not at all impressed with this mess. Yes the port kickass but that's all that does. Anyways what need I do about this shaft madness??

 

[DAMIEN1307]

I am going to break down this Great Wall Of China, (wall of solid text), that you have erected here because frankly when things are not broken up properly into sentences, paragraphs, etc. no one wants to read the posting.

Please keep this in mind when posting anything on the forums...Thank you...Damien

 

[Gordy]

How long have you had it? Contact Molly for warranty claims. Pictures of your shaft issues would help alot.

And as far as quality of the build goes.... Have you been inside of any generic engines? How about the CDH110? Terrible stuff. Don't even get us started on the avenger.

The phantom is a great engine. If you break it in properly it won't run hot and it will last a long time. The major mistake people make with the phantom is hot rodding it, especially out of the box. The phantom is not a engine to hot rod, but more if one to cruise.

 

[ImpulseRocket]

The stud issue with your case halves - they aren't bent. The two halves are not aligned properly so one set of studs is offset at a slight angle. I had the same issue with my Phantom, but also with other engines.

One way to alleviate this issue is to put the halves together loosely (don't tighten the bolts, just put them most of the way in) and then put the studs and head on and lightly snug the head in place. This will help hold the studs square so you can then tighten the 2 halves together. Once this is done you can remove the head. Then, make sure the two deck surfaces are square and correct if not.

Sometimes even that won't work, and I would suggest new case halves or to open up the stud holes in the head a little for some extra room with a drill bit one size up.

Proper engine building is correcting flaws and taking the time to ensure everything is true/square/aligned.

As for the clutch shaft bearings. The right-side bearing is pressed on to the shaft and the left is pressed into the case. I install the shaft from the right side through the left side and put a socket or other appropriately sized object behind the left bearing so it doesn't push out of the case as the shaft is pushed through from the right side. Or, you can put the shaft in from the right and then install the bearing on the left side over the shaft and into the case if you have a tool or other such object that can press on both the inner and outer races at the same time while also allowing the shaft to pass through. I use one of my bearing installers from a kit I have with a socket for this part.

This is one of those tool sets that seems like a waste until you need it.

Amazon.com

Keys and other items should be installed after he shaft and bearings are in place.