Here's yet another question for the expierinced MBers

Unfortunately I don't know what size the diameter is of the rear sprocket and the bike is in a shop getting worked on due to my lack of experience. Honestly I just love riding the MB and pay someone else to do the work but I'm learning as I go. I'll try and get those #'s for ya ASAP.
How many teeth does it have? Half inch pitch is space between each link and tooth, so number of teeth/2= average circumference of the gear in inches. Divide that by 3.14 for your sprocket diameter. A 255 rotor is about 10 inches. A 48t rear sprocket is about 7 and a half inches, and lay on another quarter inch of chain around and the whole thing is about 8 inches, unfortunately so is a 203 disk. I just looked but can't find an adapter separate from a 255 disk, it's a whole kit, but the 203mm rotors available are about the same price as a good 12" miter saw blade. The adapter could probably be made to work with some kind of spacer and longer bolts. I've added washers to raise and even fix the angle of some capliers, I dont see it being a big deal to make a bracket, working a saw blade down could be tricky without the right tools.
 
I think there's a limit to the diameter you want to go to with a single piece thin (2mm iirc) steel disc just due to their tendency to warp when heated around the edge. 203mm rotors can be quite cheap.
I am sure there's a limit, question is what is it, and how to make it not a single solid piece of steel if it is an issue. Water, drills, lasers and machining machinery are ideas. Not to mention larger disks heat up less, so the bigger the size the less likely to reach warp temperatures (sounds like that belongs in star trek.)

To be fair, the kit is only about 120 dollars, that's not entirely too bad being you don't have to actually make anything, and a really good set of just capliers can fetch double that, add rotors and everything else and it makes 120 seem pretty tiny, and a relatively cool fix for having a sprocket and your disk brake.

The other possible option is to get a different caliper, there's a big difference between the bb5 and bb7 as far as thickness goes, my friend as a cable actuated hydraulic brake, the profile is a bit smaller from what I recall, it may just be an issue like that. I've put spacer washers under the rotor to move it out, can you do that at all and just make the brake caliper move outboard too?
 
I am sure there's a limit, question is what is it, and how to make it not a single solid piece of steel if it is an issue. Water, drills, lasers and machining machinery are ideas. Not to mention larger disks heat up less, so the bigger the size the less likely to reach warp temperatures (sounds like that belongs in star trek.)

To be fair, the kit is only about 120 dollars, that's not entirely too bad being you don't have to actually make anything, and a really good set of just capliers can fetch double that, add rotors and everything else and it makes 120 seem pretty tiny, and a relatively cool fix for having a sprocket and your disk brake.

The other possible option is to get a different caliper, there's a big difference between the bb5 and bb7 as far as thickness goes, my friend as a cable actuated hydraulic brake, the profile is a bit smaller from what I recall, it may just be an issue like that. I've put spacer washers under the rotor to move it out, can you do that at all and just make the brake caliper move outboard too?
I first suggested spacers to the person working on the MB and he said that wouldn't work but I explained it over the phone so he may of not grasped the image I was trying to give em. I looked for pics or links to forward him (his shop is about an hour away) but I really didn't find anything to offer him much help. Later tonight I'll suggest he come on to the site to read all the comments and hopefully we figure something out cause it's finally nice weather here in Erie PA and days like these are rare.
 
It was nice in this part of Pennsylvania too, able to repair sils and doors today with the weather being just right for it! He probably does understand, it's as obvious as it could be what parts are going to interfere, just try to put it together! Lol I wouldn't stress too much, I used off the shelf washers that weren't exactly identical as real shims would be, but the world of modern technology gets them pretty damn close, anyway they worked just fine, I did use calipers and act selectively with quick measurements and just made sure I stacked each with the stamped side down and it made a really straight disk, and that disk served as my front brake with zero failure and a few accidental lock ups, again no failure. That was just to get the (large bb5 and 7) caliper away from the spokes, simple logic says the original caliper is a lot smaller than the ones I had upgraded through.

Smaller calipers exist, I know I have one right now amongst the other oddball parts, actually it's still in the plastic bag it came with. It's a mongoose terrex stock caliper. I'd send it to you but you should know it's a pretty low quality part, and the replacement pads don't exist from searching, but you can order them from mongoose. I had one spring out of the ramp while trying to adjust one, and as the pull gets shorter because you can't adjust pad depth the brakes don't work as good and then suddenly pop out and rolls the bearings into the next ramp ahead internally, then the brakes get loose as f*** and with the levered double brake lever the new slack in the one cable makes the other brake pull very lightly and so you suddenly have almost no brakes.

You still want it it's free? If you have the other type of brake lever you can use it safely since if it pops the cable slack doesn't affect the other cable.
 
It was nice in this part of Pennsylvania too, able to repair sils and doors today with the weather being just right for it! He probably does understand, it's as obvious as it could be what parts are going to interfere, just try to put it together! Lol I wouldn't stress too much, I used off the shelf washers that weren't exactly identical as real shims would be, but the world of modern technology gets them pretty damn close, anyway they worked just fine, I did use calipers and act selectively with quick measurements and just made sure I stacked each with the stamped side down and it made a really straight disk, and that disk served as my front brake with zero failure and a few accidental lock ups, again no failure. That was just to get the (large bb5 and 7) caliper away from the spokes, simple logic says the original caliper is a lot smaller than the ones I had upgraded through.

Smaller calipers exist, I know I have one right now amongst the other oddball parts, actually it's still in the plastic bag it came with. It's a mongoose terrex stock caliper. I'd send it to you but you should know it's a pretty low quality part, and the replacement pads don't exist from searching, but you can order them from mongoose. I had one spring out of the ramp while trying to adjust one, and as the pull gets shorter because you can't adjust pad depth the brakes don't work as good and then suddenly pop out and rolls the bearings into the next ramp ahead internally, then the brakes get loose as f**k and with the levered double brake lever the new slack in the one cable makes the other brake pull very lightly and so you suddenly have almost no brakes.

You still want it it's free? If you have the other type of brake lever you can use it safely since if it pops the cable slack doesn't affect the other cable.

So my plan is to ultimately have a rim & disc brake on the rear and if I do what I hoped to do is have a dual brake for them but at the moment I'll use individual brake levers. Good news is I'll have atleast 3 total brakes in the near future. Thanks for offering the mongoose terrex caliper!! If you think that'll work then please feel free to ship it. Let me know and I'll message you my address. Thx
 
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Do you by chance have any close ups of the engine mount front and back on this bike? I’m just trying to figure out how I’m going to mount mine... thanks! Following this thread to see how it all turns out!
 
Do you by chance have any close ups of the engine mount front and back on this bike? I’m just trying to figure out how I’m going to mount mine... thanks! Following this thread to see how it all turns out!
Well the bike is in the shop for the brake work so I'll post what I have later tonight and take more of the mounts close up asap.
 
Is this an app that uses photos and calculates measurements for you? I am just looking back at this thread and saw this again.., interests me a lot!?
Yes, but with some user input of course. It is called ON 2D Measure. What you do is pick a photo, or take a picture, and then use the calibration option to measure a known reference in the photo, then you can make measurements independently and the app simply scales off your calibration. It's super useful for measuring things you don't even physically have in front of you, just a picture off the internet with a known reference point you can calibrate against and you're golden.

Play store:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjADegQIABAB&usg=AOvVaw1Hi-rgQctzd6gmdAHW3xIV

They have a 3d measure as well, though I've not made any use of it yet, I tend to be in the 3 dimensional areas I plan to measure and my tape measure is pretty well calibrated from the factory.
 
Just to get back on the road again I'm going with the rim brake on the back and disc brake on the front. I plan on figuring out the back brake within the month but for now I'm just trying to put some miles on my bike.
 
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