Hi guys! I just got a phantom v3.

[ReadyBetty]

Hi guys! I just got a phantom v3. I plan on using a ngk spark plug and a 52 mm Stihl-brand piston and rings instead of the z-series spark plug and windowed piston and rings I hear keeps failing. I plan on making a single window in the Stihl ..Is this a good idea? Good swap?

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Hi guys! I just got a phantom v3. I plan on using a ngk spark plug and a 52 mm Stihl-brand piston and rings instead of the z-series spark plug and windowed piston and rings I hear keeps failing. I plan on making a single window in the Stihl ..Is this a good idea? Good swap?

I have the V-2 and a V-3 stock motors...I have thousands of miles on both motors, neither of them have failed, the V-3 seems to have worked out all of the original problems with the Phantom motor series, I'm quite happy with my two motors and here is a recent pic of the bike I'm running the V-3 on right now.

 

[Gordy]

Hi guys! I just got a phantom v3. I plan on using a ngk spark plug and a 52 mm Stihl-brand piston and rings instead of the z-series spark plug and windowed piston and rings I hear keeps failing. I plan on making a single window in the Stihl ..Is this a good idea? Good swap?

You might have to adjust squish. And if I were you I'd just run it piston port. Avenger manifold works great, or upgrade to the PE19 (my recommendation). For the plug, I don't suggest a BR6HS, instead get the BPMR7A (MS460 stick plug. I run the E3 equivalent).

I'm in the middle of building an absolute beast of a phantom 85. I'm using the lil red barn pop top piston and genuine Caber rings in it

 

[ReadyBetty]

I have the V-2 and a V-3 stock motors...I have thousands of miles on both motors, neither of them have failed, the V-3 seems to have worked out all of the original problems with the Phantom motor series, I'm quite happy with my two motors and here is a recent pic of the bike I'm running the V-3 on right now.

View attachment 230128

This is refreshing to know. I think the failures may be due to people not using the 20:1 break-in ratio and trying to go fast and full-tilt-boogie (wide open throttle) before break-in is complete. BTW, I'm a complete and utter noobie, so I'm just going off what I've heard and videos and speculation. BTW..nice bike.

 

[ReadyBetty]

You might have to adjust squish. And if I were you I'd just run it piston port. Avenger manifold works great, or upgrade to the PE19 (my recommendation). For the plug, I don't suggest a BR6HS, instead get the BPMR7A (MS460 stick plug. I run the E3 equivalent).

I'm in the middle of building an absolute beast of a phantom 85. I'm using the lil red barn pop top piston and genuine Caber rings in it

Dang..that plug is the exact one I got. Will it bang the top of the piston or something? And what is "run it piston port"? And do it adjust squish by using a thicker gasket? I'm a noob. i Don't know much. Lol.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

I think the failures may be due to people not using the 20:1 break-in ratio and trying to go fast and full-tilt-boogie (wide open throttle) before break-in is complete.

Agreed...They also do NOT do as the manufacturer instructs during breakin as well such as use only CONVENTIONAL 2 cycle oil during breakin of which they recommend Valvoline 2 cycle multi-purpose conventional oil, available at any Autozone or online at Amazon, etc., they also tend not to breakin for the full 310 miles also stipulated by the manufacturer as well.

Only go to full synthetic 2 cycle oil after breakin is over, I use Amsoil Dominator 2 cycle full synthetic racing oil when breakin is over and since I live in a high heat desert, I still run it at 20:1 since that keeps things cooler and well lubed.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Dang..that plug is the exact one I got.

I run the NGK-BR8HS myself which is the same physical size as the one you have, as long as your running things stock and using both bottom gaskets etc, it will NOT get hit by the piston.

Engine with NGK-BR8HS plug sticking in it...lol.

 

[ReadyBetty]

Agreed...They also do NOT do as the manufacturer instructs during breakin as well such as use only COVENTIONAL 2 cycle oil during breakin of which they recommend Valvoline 2 cycle multi-purpose conventional oil, they also tend not to breakin for the full 310 miles also stipulated by the manufacturer as well.

Only go to full synthetic 2 cycle oil after breakin is over, I use Amsoil Dominator 2 cycle full synthetic racing oil when breakin is over and since I live in a high heat desert, I still run it at 20:1 since that keeps things cooler and well lubed.

Wow thank you. I'll buy some Valvoline instead of my Husqvarna brand stuff. And thanks for the Amsoil Dominator reference. Sometimes, in the hills where I'm at, we will get 100 degree 85 % humidity days. Thanks for the tip.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Gordy is a young high school grad to be this month who is quite a decent mechanic with great skill levels and is even an accredited welder already, he tends to like modifying his motors to make monsters outta them...lol...lol.

I'm on the other end of the spectrum, in another life, before my second retirement, I was an ASE certified master tech/mechanic who always lived by the motto Keep It Simple Stupid, KISS,...lol...lol.
I try to keep things a stock as possible but always making sure that all the ports are chamfered down if necessary to avoid ring snag, etc.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Wow thank you. I'll buy some Valvoline instead of my Husqvarna brand stuff. And thanks for the Amsoil Dominator reference. Sometimes, in the hills where I'm at, we will get 100 degree 85 % humidity days. Thanks for the tip.

Be sure to also mix your gas and oil in a one gallon gas jug so once the 6.4 ounces of oil is added to one gallon of gasoline, you can then shake it vigorously before pouring it into the gas tank for uniform mixing...NEVER mix in the gas tank, it will never mix consistently.