High Idle after hose intake

[Blamb]

I cut my intake in half and added 4 inches of black heater hose so the carb would fit under the seat with the seat at its lowest position. It lost some power but runs very smooth. I am ok with this but When i pull the clutch in, it revs wide open now. I have added gasket maker to the hose to make sure any leaks where delt with. Is this a known problem or what am i doing wrong?

 

[Karl Snarl]

Test for an air leak with carb cleaner. The long intake should have you running slightly richer and with a slight delay on the throttle input. Meaning the throttle will lag a bit when you twist it or let it go. Check the base gasket too. Not just the intake and carb seals. I fought what i thought was a leaky intake for a week. Turns out it was a blown base gasket. An i had just changed carbs, why i thought carb/intake leak.

 

[Blamb]

One last piece of info. I have my throttle cable adjusted all the way out and the carb side of the cable sleeve could be pulling out of the carb causing it to race. Just thought of that. Will check later.

 

[Chainlube]

If there is a sharp turn in the throttle cable, the cable will be slow to return.

 

[Karl Snarl]

One last piece of info. I have my throttle cable adjusted all the way out and the carb side of the cable sleeve could be pulling out of the carb causing it to race. Just thought of that. Will check later.

Sounds like the slide is sticking. Should have 3 to 5 mm play in the cable for proper throttle action and return.

 

[Blamb]

Update. Its not the throttle cable itself. I placed the c ring thing on the highest notch on the needle. Runs with less throttle response so i am starting over in the morning. Taking the carb apart and cleaning. Putting old intake back on to see if i have the same problem then i will know i have a problem with air leak around the heater hose.

 

[Karl Snarl]

Update. Its not the throttle cable itself. I placed the c ring thing on the highest notch on the needle. Runs with less throttle response so i am starting over in the morning. Taking the carb apart and cleaning. Putting old intake back on to see if i have the same problem then i will know i have a problem with air leak around the heater

With a long intake, you will get a long drawn out down spin to idle. It also takes longer to respond to the throttle when you pull it. now if the idle hangs and never winds down, you got air getting in somewhere or you are to lean on your jetting( barring anything mechanical). long intakes help torque and low end, short intakes help high rpm power. shorties will work on a low end machine, but long intakes don't work well on a high spinner.

 

[Blamb]

I dont have torque or high rpm. At idle, the revs get higher quickly with no throttle. So this is a air leak then i guess.

 

[Karl Snarl]

I dont have torque or high rpm. At idle, the revs get higher quickly with no throttle. So this is a air leak then i guess.

Air leak, idle scew set to far in, way lean jet... Usually a warped intake manifold or bad gasket. Do you use studs or the m6 socket head cap screws( shcs) to attach the intake? Highly recommend going to the hardware store and get some m6 all thread rod ( atr) and use that for exhaust and intake if you haven't already. Solves a lot of problems and you can torque tighter. Use the regular zinc rod. Soft aluminum will shred if you abuse it with b7 hardened rod. Best to use a softer rod, its replaceable easier and cheaper than a jug. Let the stud strip over the case stripping out.

 

[Blamb]

I am using the stock kit. Whatever came with it. I had a perfectly good set up before i replaced the intake so i can lower the seat. Im sure the problem is somewhere between the intake gasket and the carb. It was hastily put together.