Home Depot Lights

You can use a 120v switch for anything less. (Actually if you read them they're probably good to 600v).

I have a 41 cent wall toggle on my bike, looks goofy as anything.

Just make sure the amp-capacity is proper, you need at least 5 amps. Cutting it close will burn the switch up with arcing contacts.
 
Thanks for the info about the switches. I never thought about that. I will play it on the safe side and go to the auto parts place and get my switch from there. I did not know there was a difference. What a wealth of information you guys are. I think you just saved me from burning something up, lol. Anyway, thanks!
 
Thanks for the info about the switches. I never thought about that. I will play it on the safe side and go to the auto parts place and get my switch from there. I did not know there was a difference. What a wealth of information you guys are. I think you just saved me from burning something up, lol. Anyway, thanks!


Eljefino is right. A switch is basically two pieces of metal. Think of touching two wires together. As long as those wires are big enough to handle the voltage and more importantly (as he mentioned) the amperage. You don't need any special switches for 12v, unless you wanted ones that lit up or something....then the little bulbs in them would have to be 12v.

Good luck,

Warner
 
Thanks Warner... I'm learning so much about this stuff... that's 'cause I know so little, lol. So I will remember that any switch is ok but if I want one with lights it needs to be a switch for 12v. I think I have that right. Let me know if I'm wrong.

Thanks for the help... I'm a bit of a dummy about this stuff and every bit of info I get is a great help to me. Now I know a lot more about switches than I did before.

thanks
 
Thanks Warner... I'm learning so much about this stuff... that's 'cause I know so little, lol. So I will remember that any switch is ok but if I want one with lights it needs to be a switch for 12v. I think I have that right. Let me know if I'm wrong.

Thanks for the help... I'm a bit of a dummy about this stuff and every bit of info I get is a great help to me. Now I know a lot more about switches than I did before.

thanks

What I meant was that if you want the SWITCH to light up (which you probably don't, but I mentioned it for accuracy) you would have to go with one that had a 12v light built into it. Otherwise, any switch that was rated for AT LEAST the proper voltage and amperage will work. Make sense?

Warner
 
I understand Warner. You are talking about little lights on the switch itself. If I have those I will have to go with one that had a 12v light in it. I got ya. Makes sense. I really appreciate the help. I will really have to watch the fine print on the switch to make sure I'm getting the right stuff, lol.
 
........I haven't figured out what to do about a switch yet. I will have to check that out when I go to Home Depot and see what they have and what will work. Do you have yours mounted already?

The first two are mounted. I got the package from the post office with what I hoped was the 2 for the directionals. Inside was a note saying they are back ordered.



Whatever switch you get, I get one that has male spade terminals. It probably will have those anyway. Below is pictured the female spade connector without the protective boot or cover (to show what they look like) that plugs right onto the switch terminals. The female connector crimps right onto the wire. I would use an inch or two of shrink tubing to join the female connectors and the wire for extra insulation.

Possibly your battery has the same male terminals. The insulated connectors and shrink tubing they should have at Home Depot.


Michael
 

Attachments

  • female crimp.jpg
    female crimp.jpg
    17.1 KB · Views: 246
  • female crimp insulated.jpg
    female crimp insulated.jpg
    14 KB · Views: 240
Last edited:
The first two are mounted. I got the package from the post office with what I hoped was the 2 for the directionals. Inside was a note saying they are back ordered.



Whatever switch you get, I get one that has male spade terminals. It probably will have those anyway. Below is pictured the female spade connector without the protective boot or cover (to show what they look like) that plugs right onto the switch terminals. The female connector crimps right onto the wire. I would use an inch or two of shrink tubing to join the female connectors and the wire for extra insulation.

Possibly your battery has the same male terminals. The insulated connectors and shrink tubing they should have at Home Depot.


Michael

Hi Michael.. Sorry about the note saying they were back ordered. That's no fun. Thanks for the info about the wires.. I will keep that in mind when I go shopping. Shopping will have to wait a bit though... my mad money is low and need to let it build back up again :). Thanks for all your help.
cd
 
Hi Crabdance.

Thanks for the excellent read and idea. I really like the concept, and I've already rigged-up the housings onto my handlebars. Wiring-up will come next.....as for a power source, can that battery pack you mentioned in your link be ordered online instead of gutting a UPS for one? Another question (2-parter), if you don't mind.....any idea yet how long the batt lasts, and are the 2 headlights the only lights running off of it?


Thanks in advance.


Rob.
 
Hi Crabdance.

Thanks for the excellent read and idea. I really like the concept, and I've already rigged-up the housings onto my handlebars. Wiring-up will come next.....as for a power source, can that battery pack you mentioned in your link be ordered online instead of gutting a UPS for one? Another question (2-parter), if you don't mind.....any idea yet how long the batt lasts, and are the 2 headlights the only lights running off of it?


Thanks in advance.


Rob.

Hey Bob, You might try amazon.com for the battery pack. I think they sell them. Just make sure you get a 12v 7ah battery. That should be what you need. The "ah" on the 7 means amp hour (I think). But if you get a rechargeable battery you only want to run it down no more than halfway which would give you a solid 3 1/2 hours of run time. After that you would want to recharge your battery.

For more reading, here's a great thread: mb lighting

Check that out. Lots of good stuff there that will help you learn. That's where I got most of my stuff. Really helpful thread.

Almost forgot... in the example that I put on there, it is only running headlights and no mention of tail lights.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top