Hooray! Got the Press-fit Bearing Off Cleanly!!

[Deleted Member 4613]

After struggling for days trying to remove the bearing from the friction drive
I finally did it with a $15 stearing wheeler puller from Harbor Freight. This tool does the job.
I used a large 9/16 inch socket wrench and applied tremendous force. I heard a snap
and then the bearing shaft or spindle moved out the bearing easily. No need to
go to a machinist. There are two 1/4 inch holes in the drive that I used to put
bolts through with nuts and pulled against them. The yoke fit perfectly over the
drive 1/4 inch holes already there. This is some tough tool. And no damage to the
bearing. Now, I'll sand the shaft so the bearing slips on. Now, I will be able to
install a 1.25 roller which was my objective.
I greased the puller threads to prevent them from shearing.

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[CrazyDan]

If you put the shaft in the freezer for a while the metal will shrink some and you might be able to slide the bearing right on.

 

[darwin]

Great post for Staton FD users!

 

[Cavity]

Having a hard time visualizing, any chance you can show pics?
Awesome job!!

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

OK, I'll try to grab some pics, but it's simple. The yoke is placed
over the bearing shaft and two bolts are inserted through the
yoke into predrilled holes in the channel drive. Nuts are threaded
on the bolts behind the channel to pull against. The puller is then
greased and then threaded in the yoke directly against the
bearing spindle. The puller has a socket end to which a socket
wrench can be placed on to turn the puller. Forcefully, turn the
socket wrench clockwise until the bearing gives, and complete
until the entire drive unit comes out the channel. Before this
the retaining clip and allen collar are removed, to allow the
entire unit roller, spindle and clutch to move out the channel.

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

Fabulous! In just one hour, I made the bearing into a
slip fit and already installed the 1.25 roller. Just some
light hand sanding, and a little Dremel and easy-does-it.
Now I can experiment with different rollers. Yeh!

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

I don't believe I have a Stanton drive; it's a dax drive shown here:

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Not sure if the Stanton drive has the two predrilled holes in the channel
for pulling out the bearing, but if not there, it should be easy enough
to drill two 1/4 holes for the bolts.

 

[darwin]

Dax has a steel channel folded by a brake press, Staton is 1/4in thick extruded aluminum channel. Dax's used to use a clip and a collar to hold the shaft in, maybe it's changed. Staton's is a pressed fit with the bearings holding the shaft in. Then there's the Chinese kits that are a poor copy of Dax's kits.

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

The way you describe the Staton kit, it would be difficult to change
out rollers. The puller could remove them but a new roller would also
have to be pressed in since, as you describe, nothing would hold the
shaft in. Not sure how to press in a bearing. I think the Dax concept
is better, since the rollers can be changed out easily once the bearing
is pulled out.

 

[Deleted Member 4613]

Saw a video where the bearing is heated to about 325F on a hot plate
and then dropped over the shaft. Maybe a heat technique would work,
but somebody would have to try it with a Stanton FD drive. Any
volunteers?