horse power mods?

cheers fellas,
top speeds not my want, more pull and mid range is. need to source somone that can weld a pipe for me. andrew, ill be looking into a larger sprocket some time soon. can you tell me how to find thred on gear ratios, think im running a 44tooth about 40kmph comfortably. thanks again.
Here's something GM learned back in the 80's.
It seems mid range power can be built if you increase the length of the passage between the inlet (air filter) and the cylinder.
One way they did it, was to design an intake manifold in which the passages crossed from one side to another.
It was called "TPI", which stood for "Tuned Port Injection".
If you take both your hands and clasp them together, with your fingers interlocking, you'll have a pretty good illustration of what that manifold looked like.
Keeping with that train of thought, you might want to discard the stock intake pipe and build your own.
Saw the flanges off so you can reuse them, and weld them to a longer pipe (or cut the stock pipe in half and weld in a length of pipe that has the same inside diameter as your current one.

How much longer? I couldn't say. That's going to have to be a trial-and-error thing, unless you can find some kind of mathamatical formula that'll give you the answer (or at least get you in the ball park).

Also, an overbore kit will build power in the mid range and a little of the upper end.

I found that out, back when I was messing around with VW Beetles.

My dad had a european '67 1300 (that had the steering swapped over).

He found a '68 1500 for me, but the engine came in 3 boxes, so we rebuilt it over the winter.
Once it was done, he put it in his car (thanks dad! :rolleyes:), because it was time to rebuild his engine.

Now understand that the difference between the 1300, the 1500 and the 1600 is simply the bore size. Everything else is the same (VW did that on purpose).
With a 5mm larger bore, he noticed that the car could pass slower vehicles much more quickly.
When he rebuilt his 1300, he picked up a set of 1600 cylinders and pistons and used those and although it didn't seem to take off any quicker, it didn't lose as much power at highway speeds (90-100kmh) as it did with the smaller stock cylinders.

Same goes for any engine, even these little buzz bombs, so it might be something to keep in mind, should you ever find yourself with some time and a little extra cash.



Dean
 
New chrome exhaust

Just ordered a new chromed tuned expansion chamber exhaust pipe for my bike. Cant wait for it to arrive! Last pipe literally exploded, the header pipe was left behind so I'm going to weld on to that. This is a design I did on Photoshop with what it is going to look like. If any body has any ideas for a better place to mount the pipe I'd love to hear it. I'll keep you posted on how I did it. Its a pocket bike / mini moto racing pipe which I got off ebay for 99p! the bloke spelt it wrong in the title so nobody could find it!
 

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Hi,
That first bend out of the engine looks really tight....best to have a longer smoother radius bend or a pipe that flairs out (the flair out is hard to do without extensive fabbing....straight pipe is easier to use)...Maybe run the header pipe out a bit and wrap it around the the down tube instead of before the down tube.
Nice job on the photoshop....I need to get high tech like that!
Andrew
 
Another idea may be to hire the job out to a professional mechanic who has a hydraulic (or pneumatic) tubing bender.
In the states we have "muffler shops", where most of the work deals with the exhaust system.
Anyone who's done that for a while can take a tail pipe and bend it into anything they want.
I just don't know if they'll have the mandrels to work with pipe that small (diameter).
...OR...
Heat the pipe with a propane torch and bend it over the closed jaws of a vice.
Work in "baby steps" and constantly check for "fittage" (my own word ;) ).

As GhostO and Andyinchville1 pointed out, you want to stay away from tight bends.
Ideally, you'd want a big round circular bend coming from the flange, up as high as possible, before changing direction at the expansion pipe.
You also want that change in direction to be as smooth and seamless as possible.
In the end, the new pipe would be shaped like a question mark.

Just remember...Big Circles.
You always want to achieve that when you're shaping the pipe.




Dean
 
Brilliant thanks for the advice guys! smooth and seamless... this will be my first time doing anything like this so thanks for your input and I'll get some pics up soon.
 
i think you all should consider this...

this is a Keihin PC10c carb off of a XR80. the intake is handmade.
i wish i could say it was my idea and workmanship, but i have the imagination of a single-celled organism, and two left hands (long story. horrible accident:LOL:). anyway, this is how i got the motor, and like i said before, it screams!
AZvinnie rode it, Spooky's roland and fred both rode it. roland said "thats alot of torque. you could put on a 30tooth sprocket and get away with it."
and unscrew the baffle from your exhaust can and GET RID of it! the baffle robs power.
yeah, its not pretty, but who cares?

ps-notice how the intake doesnt have a sharp bend
pps-fastboy....its from an XR80.
 

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