How do i check for leaks if i cant idle

Two things, unless if it wasn't the ball bearing then I don't know what to do, and how do you like your exhaust? I was looking at getting one like that since it was cheaper but cheaper in my book isn't always better, if it works then I might try it, I can't find anyone with that exhaust to compare too
 
Two things, unless if it wasn't the ball bearing then I don't know what to do, and how do you like your exhaust? I was looking at getting one like that since it was cheaper but cheaper in my book isn't always better, if it works then I might try it, I can't find anyone with that exhaust to compare too
I dont know. If i can get it running again ill let you know. I think after buying a new master link i could get it running but not easily. even without the clutch there is still a spark and compression and a piston that goes up and down.
 
The first thing I see from your video is the left side cover has to have all 3 bolts and they have to be tight, the clutch shaft has a large spring on it that you are trying to compress. Get the cover on the left side and watch the right side for movement. Don't worry about replacing one clutch pad, it'll run fine without it. The illustrations below should help.
 
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I don't know who the person is that created those drawings but he has been a great help to a lot of people, thanks Manic Mechanic!
 
wow, thanks fer the laffs.
ok leak checking, 2stroke? seal off 2 of the 3 holes,intake , exhaust then build or buy a device to add air pressure (5lbs more will produce leaks you dont want this) through the spark plug hole. with piston at bottom dead center it should hold pressure thus no leak to outside. THEN find a way to create a vaccum to -5lbs, again no more or bad things may happen. if these both hold pressure , not for ever but a while, you probably have no air leak. this does not rule out carb, intake, exhaust pipe. i use a medical device thats for atomizing a liquid an its inhaled. it pumps air and when something pumps air it must suck air, opened it up attached hose to the sucking end, waalaa vaccum pump, 2 in 1. YES an 0 ring tween carb an intake is GOOD. also anaerobic gasket maker , check orielys "may be behind counter" this does not harden unless hardener is added, DONT ADD, spread this on intake,oring, carb mating surfaces assemble. it will wipe off months later. it seals well. i paid 15$, worth it.

WATER?? to leak check? um water ever so slowly introduced into a reved up motor will remove carbon. to much will remove crank. that would be bad,
leak checking a running motor can be done with carb cleaner, braklean, wd40 and best choice is propane using a hose attached to torch nozzle. overspray around aircleaner and youll think you found it!! an replace gasket for nothing. beware overspray into air cleaner. oh, sprays may create fire on hot motors, fire is bad, dont burn your parents house down.

now go create your very own leak checker you little monsters.
 
I don't know who the person is that created those drawings but he has been a great help to a lot of people, thanks Manic Mechanic!
there is no ball bering in my shaft i dont think ive ever seen one. what size ball bering would i need to use to replace it? could i just use a marble? or a roller ball mouse ball stripped of rubber? because its metal under the rubber.
 
I don't know who the person is that created those drawings but he has been a great help to a lot of people, thanks Manic Mechanic!
Iwent out just now and got a new ball bearing the diameter of the pin. Its a bit bigger than its supposed to be so when i tried to screw it show i stripped out the threads on the lower corner bolt. I will need to rethread it, but it works without that bolt there well. I might just get a smaller ball bearing. thanks for your help in this matter. I will be getting a new masterlink as soon as i can find a salesmen. i dont suppose anyone on here could send me a spare. then i can start back with the idle problems.
 
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