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5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Hi. I need to buy or fab a mechanism to raise my Staton friction drive roller off the tire at times, to reduce rolling resistance. Any help is appreciated greatly.
vegaspaddy
Member
there was a home build a month or so ago on a recumbent where the guy had used a simple brake cable to lift the setup of the back wheel from a pivot, sounds like you need to find out how the dm friction drives are set up as they have the handle mounted out front along with springs etc to help lift their roller mounts of the wheel
M
Member 5549
Guest
I saw a video last night on you tube a guy built a device for the staton to do that and he had some drawings of it too !!!
get on youtube and search staton friction drive. you might have to sift through a few but you will find it.
It IS A HANDLEBAR MOUNTED ENGAGE AND DISENGAGE SYSTEM.
get on youtube and search staton friction drive. you might have to sift through a few but you will find it.
It IS A HANDLEBAR MOUNTED ENGAGE AND DISENGAGE SYSTEM.
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Thanks for the tip, seanhan and vegaspaddy. I'll look for those sites.
I have twin engines on my bike that are being driven one at a time or together. When the rear engine drives alone, it has to overcome the front engine's spindle resistance. This is especially critical at top speed, when the bike is charging uphill. The front engine has 1.25" roller and has great low and mid end, so the resistance from the rear engine's 1.5" roller is basically a nuisance.
I intend to replace the rear friction drive with Staton chain drive, which has freewheel capabilities and very little rolling resistance. So the front friction drive assembly needs to be raised. I've read about Dimension Edge's "On the fly" feature. I'll email them to see if they sell their products separately.
I have twin engines on my bike that are being driven one at a time or together. When the rear engine drives alone, it has to overcome the front engine's spindle resistance. This is especially critical at top speed, when the bike is charging uphill. The front engine has 1.25" roller and has great low and mid end, so the resistance from the rear engine's 1.5" roller is basically a nuisance.
I intend to replace the rear friction drive with Staton chain drive, which has freewheel capabilities and very little rolling resistance. So the front friction drive assembly needs to be raised. I've read about Dimension Edge's "On the fly" feature. I'll email them to see if they sell their products separately.
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Hmmm, well that youtube video was on a recumbent which had a lot of working space to operate. I don't have that much area to work with up front, especially with my basket in the way. Cable or even solid, telescoping or cam over-locking rods would work. I just can't picture the final assembly in my head.
vegaspaddy
Member
I can see why you need to lift the mount, wow two engines must be a crazy ride.
In its simplest form a cable pulls and drops from a lever, the biggest problem will be how to keep the tension right when the system is lowered, a self locking brake handle would help keep it disengaged. However thes parts might not be able to cope with the weight.
yeap dm edge is were you need to do some major brain searching....
These bikes are so much fun i have a gebe on a crusier/hybrid at the moment and i just bought a slighty used friction drive which will arrive sometime next week. I hope to try and fit it my my wifes trike, at first i was thinking rear wheel but they are cantered inwards at an angle so fabing some sort of mounting brackets would be a nightmare. So am going to try the front wheel should be easier, but this is a recumbent trike with 20in wheels so its not going to be easy....
Anyhow surf like crazy your solution is out their somewhere, but it does drive us crazy in the meantime !!!!
In its simplest form a cable pulls and drops from a lever, the biggest problem will be how to keep the tension right when the system is lowered, a self locking brake handle would help keep it disengaged. However thes parts might not be able to cope with the weight.
yeap dm edge is were you need to do some major brain searching....
These bikes are so much fun i have a gebe on a crusier/hybrid at the moment and i just bought a slighty used friction drive which will arrive sometime next week. I hope to try and fit it my my wifes trike, at first i was thinking rear wheel but they are cantered inwards at an angle so fabing some sort of mounting brackets would be a nightmare. So am going to try the front wheel should be easier, but this is a recumbent trike with 20in wheels so its not going to be easy....
Anyhow surf like crazy your solution is out their somewhere, but it does drive us crazy in the meantime !!!!
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
Hey vegas, it's an awesome ride, especially low and midrange. I just saw two different examples of raising the assemblies on YouTube video, and am working on my own. I'm gonna use the Happy Time locking clutch lever and cable, because it's strong enough. Then I'll use a 90-degree L-bracket near the assembly, which would provide additional leverage.
Yep, it does drive me bananas at times but it also keeps me sane. With the help of members here and at another forum the problem should be licked soon.
Good luck on your wife's recumbent. Maybe a low-powered engine like the 1.25 hp Honda or Subaru powerplant would suffice.
Yep, it does drive me bananas at times but it also keeps me sane. With the help of members here and at another forum the problem should be licked soon.
Good luck on your wife's recumbent. Maybe a low-powered engine like the 1.25 hp Honda or Subaru powerplant would suffice.
I
ibdennyak
Guest
In my last venture into friction drive I used springs (bungee straps actually) to apply pressure and the Happy Time locking clutch lever to remove pressure. I just installed a right angle arm to the swivelling part of the mounting, and ran a longer cable attaching it to the frame, and pulling the friction wheel onto the tire. I used a hose clamp to attach the cable, so adjusting the distance was quick and easy.
5
5-7HEAVEN
Guest
ibdennyak, so you connected the right angle arm to the pivoting mounting part near the seat and the bungee corda at the other end?
Then you used a hose clamp to attach the cable to the right angle arm?
Then you used a hose clamp to attach the cable to the right angle arm?
I
ibdennyak
Guest
Aaargh, computer must have a problem with Hawaii or something. Locked up twice so far. 
Anyway, yup, you pretty much have the idea. I hose clamped the clutch cable housing to the frame near the seat post. The actual cable went through a hole drilled in the arm coming from the pivoting mount. (Actually I drilled several holes to get the right leverage). The cable through the hole was secured with the happy Time clutch cable brass thingee. (split bolt works too......oh, wrong thread) The bungee straps went from the pivoting bracket down to the holes that are supposed to attach the fender brackets or something by the rear axle. I used one on each side. I also bought a varied selection to get the tension right. I remember riding in slush once where I had to double the bungees to get enough traction to get home. That made it too difficult to raise the spindle. I was using a snow thrower engine with a urethane caster, so that might have been part of the problem. I did havbe plenty of speed and power though. Actually that was the cause of its demise. It did take some fiddling to get the short throw of the clutch lever to move the spindle enough to disengage, but it was doable.
If this is for the front engine on your bike, it might work pretty well....it is right under your handle bar. Good luck, and don't crash like I did.
Denny
Anyway, yup, you pretty much have the idea. I hose clamped the clutch cable housing to the frame near the seat post. The actual cable went through a hole drilled in the arm coming from the pivoting mount. (Actually I drilled several holes to get the right leverage). The cable through the hole was secured with the happy Time clutch cable brass thingee. (split bolt works too......oh, wrong thread) The bungee straps went from the pivoting bracket down to the holes that are supposed to attach the fender brackets or something by the rear axle. I used one on each side. I also bought a varied selection to get the tension right. I remember riding in slush once where I had to double the bungees to get enough traction to get home. That made it too difficult to raise the spindle. I was using a snow thrower engine with a urethane caster, so that might have been part of the problem. I did havbe plenty of speed and power though. Actually that was the cause of its demise. It did take some fiddling to get the short throw of the clutch lever to move the spindle enough to disengage, but it was doable. If this is for the front engine on your bike, it might work pretty well....it is right under your handle bar. Good luck, and don't crash like I did.
Denny
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