How Do I Raise My Engine?

Discussion in 'Friction Drive' started by 5-7HEAVEN, Sep 13, 2008.

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  1. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Hi. I need to buy or fab a mechanism to raise my Staton friction drive roller off the tire at times, to reduce rolling resistance. Any help is appreciated greatly.

  2. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    there was a home build a month or so ago on a recumbent where the guy had used a simple brake cable to lift the setup of the back wheel from a pivot, sounds like you need to find out how the dm friction drives are set up as they have the handle mounted out front along with springs etc to help lift their roller mounts of the wheel
  3. seanhan

    seanhan Member

    I saw a video last night on you tube a guy built a device for the staton to do that and he had some drawings of it too !!!
    get on youtube and search staton friction drive. you might have to sift through a few but you will find it.
  4. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Thanks for the tip, seanhan and vegaspaddy. I'll look for those sites.

    I have twin engines on my bike that are being driven one at a time or together. When the rear engine drives alone, it has to overcome the front engine's spindle resistance. This is especially critical at top speed, when the bike is charging uphill. The front engine has 1.25" roller and has great low and mid end, so the resistance from the rear engine's 1.5" roller is basically a nuisance.

    I intend to replace the rear friction drive with Staton chain drive, which has freewheel capabilities and very little rolling resistance. So the front friction drive assembly needs to be raised. I've read about Dimension Edge's "On the fly" feature. I'll email them to see if they sell their products separately.
  5. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Hmmm, well that youtube video was on a recumbent which had a lot of working space to operate. I don't have that much area to work with up front, especially with my basket in the way. Cable or even solid, telescoping or cam over-locking rods would work. I just can't picture the final assembly in my head.
  6. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    I can see why you need to lift the mount, wow two engines must be a crazy ride.

    In its simplest form a cable pulls and drops from a lever, the biggest problem will be how to keep the tension right when the system is lowered, a self locking brake handle would help keep it disengaged. However thes parts might not be able to cope with the weight.

    yeap dm edge is were you need to do some major brain searching....

    These bikes are so much fun i have a gebe on a crusier/hybrid at the moment and i just bought a slighty used friction drive which will arrive sometime next week. I hope to try and fit it my my wifes trike, at first i was thinking rear wheel but they are cantered inwards at an angle so fabing some sort of mounting brackets would be a nightmare. So am going to try the front wheel should be easier, but this is a recumbent trike with 20in wheels so its not going to be easy....

    Anyhow surf like crazy your solution is out their somewhere, but it does drive us crazy in the meantime !!!!
  7. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Hey vegas, it's an awesome ride, especially low and midrange. I just saw two different examples of raising the assemblies on YouTube video, and am working on my own. I'm gonna use the Happy Time locking clutch lever and cable, because it's strong enough. Then I'll use a 90-degree L-bracket near the assembly, which would provide additional leverage.

    Yep, it does drive me bananas at times but it also keeps me sane. With the help of members here and at another forum the problem should be licked soon.

    Good luck on your wife's recumbent. Maybe a low-powered engine like the 1.25 hp Honda or Subaru powerplant would suffice.
  8. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    In my last venture into friction drive I used springs (bungee straps actually) to apply pressure and the Happy Time locking clutch lever to remove pressure. I just installed a right angle arm to the swivelling part of the mounting, and ran a longer cable attaching it to the frame, and pulling the friction wheel onto the tire. I used a hose clamp to attach the cable, so adjusting the distance was quick and easy.
  9. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    ibdennyak, so you connected the right angle arm to the pivoting mounting part near the seat and the bungee corda at the other end?

    Then you used a hose clamp to attach the cable to the right angle arm?
  10. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    Aaargh, computer must have a problem with Hawaii or something. Locked up twice so far. :grin: Anyway, yup, you pretty much have the idea. I hose clamped the clutch cable housing to the frame near the seat post. The actual cable went through a hole drilled in the arm coming from the pivoting mount. (Actually I drilled several holes to get the right leverage). The cable through the hole was secured with the happy Time clutch cable brass thingee. (split bolt works too......oh, wrong thread):grin: The bungee straps went from the pivoting bracket down to the holes that are supposed to attach the fender brackets or something by the rear axle. I used one on each side. I also bought a varied selection to get the tension right. I remember riding in slush once where I had to double the bungees to get enough traction to get home. That made it too difficult to raise the spindle. I was using a snow thrower engine with a urethane caster, so that might have been part of the problem. I did havbe plenty of speed and power though. Actually that was the cause of its demise. It did take some fiddling to get the short throw of the clutch lever to move the spindle enough to disengage, but it was doable.

    If this is for the front engine on your bike, it might work pretty is right under your handle bar. Good luck, and don't crash like I did. :shock:

  11. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Denny, I'm surprised you had enough leverage from the pivot. I would've presumed you attached the cable at the tail end near the rear supports.

    Yep, it's for the front drive assembly. If I dilly-dally with the rear chain drive, it'll also be for the rear drive assembly.
  12. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    you see sooner or later someone always shows up and helps you out,

    this is what i am going to try and add the friction roller too. DE edge has one mounted to a simular bike,rear wheel, although its a tadpole and not a delta, i just hope theirs enough room up front otherwise its going to take some crazy rear fabbing. the engine will be the mits 43 probably too powerful.....
  13. ibdennyak

    ibdennyak Guest

    yeah, my ange bracket started at almost 6 inches long.....pulled easily, but didn't move far enough, should have taken some pics before I wrecked it I guess.
  14. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Good luck, Vegas. Instead of fabricating, you can always use Staton's front friction drive kit, which will bolt on. I have dual Mits 43cc engines. Everyone has different power requirements. Maybe a Honda or Subaru engine might suit your liking.

    That bike has front disc brake, which clears the Staton motor mount. A v-brake would pose clearancing issues.

    Denny, I'm gonna place the lever near the rear support struts.
  15. hill climber

    hill climber Member

    how does that thing pull up hill. i just did a duel friction, both home built, and WOW is all i got to say. i have a ht"80cc" ported, port timing change,expansion chamber, shifter kit and this thing has way more power. have fun with it. HEY!! DO A WHEELIE! hill climber
  16. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Dual engines pull hardest in low and midrange, depending on which roller used. I have 1.25" spindle up front. If you start off with the powerful front engine, the rear engine kicks in like the secondaries of a four-barrel carburetor. If you start off with the rear engine and 1.5" roller, it feels like a supercharger kicked in the moment you throttle the front engine.

    Whether flying down the flats or charging uphill, the front engine accelerates the bike quickly, then redlines. By this time the rear engine with 1.5" roller is higher than normal up its rpm range and flying. Driving uphill, you can hear the rear engine's rpm drop, so you just throttle the front engine to its peak, then drop it to idle until it needs to assist again. The major problem is the substantial drag from the idling front engine that the rear engine has to overcome. When I rig the lever to raise the front engine, it'll reduce a LOT of rolling resistance at the top end. When the rear drive gets retrofitted with Staton or Titan chain drive, it should eliminate most of the drag.
  17. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

    hows the mod. coming along get some photos up, nothing speaks better than pics.
    That will be a neat setup once you get the rear chain drive on the back and friction on front, thats going to be be one insane ride.
  18. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    I'm transferring the Staton hub and 7-gear from my Dahon rim to a HD 26" rim with Wheelsmith 12g spokes. A visit to Home Depot should locate the lever, bracket and springs/bungee cords to raise the engine. Work and school interferes with play, so maybe next week I'll have it done.
  19. vegaspaddy

    vegaspaddy Member

  20. 5-7HEAVEN

    5-7HEAVEN Guest

    Thanks, vegas. I saw that early on this website or another, and on youtube. It looks complicated to me, and that recumbent has more space to work with. I'm leaning towards a simple clutch cable/lever. I have the cable and lever mounted, just need to figure out the final connection.