How do you Improve the Grip of a Drive Roller?

[2stroker]

Ok here is what I did with good success. I cleaned my drive roller with acetone, and a cloth. I then applied anti slip tape to the friction roller. You can buy it at home depot. Peel and stick on one side and carborundum on the other side. This will make your base to accept epoxy. I used jb weld. After applying jb weld I installed a cut out piece of a bicycle tire tread long enough to meet each other on the spindle. I wire tied the bicycle tire to the epoxy and waited 12 hours. Now I have a tire turning a tire. Your welcome.

I cant believe you gotta do that to get good traction. I just tighten my bungee cable and it takes me 30secs and im off. I hope that works out for ya.
Neoprene 90 is a excellent drive roller. If you can find. If you do let me know.

 

[Happy Valley]

I cant believe you gotta do that to get good traction. I just tighten my bungee cable

I believe the poster was discussing traction surface, most friction drives (his probably as well) have some form of mechanical fixture to adjust and lock down pressure on the tire. To each their own but know some might also be of the opinion that relying on a bungee cord for this purpose could seem tenuous at best.

Delrin..... after about 200miles it literaly molds to the shape of the tire

Delrin may be a fantastic material but molding to the shape of the tire creates a concave surface. Concave shaped friction spindles is an old topic oft discussed until practical physics enters the discussion, IE:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=262503&postcount=7
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=150801&postcount=10

 

[Pdetke]

I started with a 3/4 long socket which is just over 1 inch before buildup. I put a 3/4 case hardened nut on the motor drive shaft the case hardened nut turns the socket.

 

[rawly old]

Pdetke,
Buy a scooter and quit now before you throw away yur money and yur life
building these dat blamed contraptions.

 

[Pdetke]

To Rawly Old, thank you for the advice. Respectfully - Paul

 

[2stroker]

I believe the poster was discussing traction surface, most friction drives (his probably as well) have some form of mechanical fixture to adjust and lock down pressure on the tire. To each their own but know some might also be of the opinion that relying on a bungee cord for this purpose could seem tenuous at best.



Delrin may be a fantastic material but molding to the shape of the tire creates a concave surface. Concave shaped friction spindles is an old topic oft discussed until practical physics enters the discussion, IE:
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=262503&postcount=7
http://www.motoredbikes.com/showpost.php?p=150801&postcount=10

If you have to improve your kit to get it to perform to standards then you didn't get a good kit. You should install it and ride. Not Install it realize you need to add something to it to get performance. Just doesn't seem right. Thats like buying a brand new car and take it for a ride and realize you need to install new better brakes that actually work.

I rarely have to adjust my bungee (every 800 miles). When i do its simple. People always wanna make things complicated they can't just deal with something being simple and dependable.

My bike tires last about 2,000miles. I have a speedometer now and i get the torque going up the hills and the top end speed with the drive wheel wearing the shape of the tire. I use it every day and know it works good.

People always see it and say wow thats stupid simple. You feel stupid when ya realize the simplicity of the design.

But to each his own opinion. Some people like fixing stuff while they could be riding.

 

[Happy Valley]

No lectures needed here son. The guy up thread was forwarding an idea about traction surfaces on drive spindles. Half the fun is tinkering and tweaking stuff. It's okay to let people own their ideas without having to vindicate yours. Just keep that bungee out of the spokes though!

 

[2stroker]

No lectures needed here son. The guy up thread was forwarding an idea about traction surfaces on drive spindles. Half the fun is tinkering and tweaking stuff. It's okay to let people own their ideas without having to vindicate yours. Just keep that bungee out of the spokes though!

#1. Im not your son. #2Why would it go in the spokes? It connects to the engine frame goes under the bike frame and back up and connects to the engine frame again. Watch the installation video. Theres no slack in it. It holds the drive wheel to the tire. The bungee isn't going to go into the spokes. Just keep that kit running.

 

[Happy Valley]

#1 Relax, just a common euphemism dude, lol.
#2 Bungees around bicycles, any bicycle, make me skittish. If for any reason they come unhooked while underway, they snap around and the potential for the loose hook to find spinning spokes is uncanny. A couple of weeks ago I dug a bungee out of a customers rear wheel on a pedal bicycle that had wound tight and lodged between the frame and the hub. They were lucky, it didn't get into the spokes but it stopped them real quick anyway. I always advise folks against using them on rear racks and such. Just a heads up is all.

 

[2stroker]

#1 Relax, just a common euphemism dude, lol.
#2 Bungees around bicycles, any bicycle, make me skittish. If for any reason they come unhooked while underway, they snap around and the potential for the loose hook to find spinning spokes is uncanny. A couple of weeks ago I dug a bungee out of a customers rear wheel on a pedal bicycle that had wound tight and lodged between the frame and the hub. They were lucky, it didn't get into the spokes but it stopped them real quick anyway. I always advise folks against using them on rear racks and such. Just a heads up is all.

lol..i didnt take anything to heart..hehe..That would suck getting a bungee stuck in your wheel. But i haven't had it happen to me.