How do you start your Whizzer?

Discussion in 'Whizzer Motorized Bicycles' started by go-rebels, Dec 31, 2008.

  1. go-rebels

    go-rebels Member

    I picked up this bike on Ebay a little while ago|240:1318 but am somewhat confused as to the starting procedure when cold. I seem to be either starving the engine or flooding it trying to start it in 50F weather.

    What is your technique?

  2. Gentlemen, Start your engines!

    HI Go, well first, CLEAN gas!

    Then for giggles, since it is an unknown bike (to you and me) get a little jar or can, find the overflow/drain hose on bottom of carb. Directly to you and a little above is a brass screw (or it appears to be!) this is drain screw, open petcock and that screw, and drain a bit of fuel thru the carb.

    No fuel? Fix that first!

    Got Fuel, good on to next thing!

    Check the oil!

    Turn on kill switch right handle

    Turn on fuel petcock

    Lift gold choke handle (looks like heavy wire)

    Turn on keyswitch

    With bike on stand rotate left pedal to about 11:00 position

    Pull in little comp release lever under left control

    Kick down pedal, and as it moves release the comp release, stroke thru with foot

    Listen to engne roar to life, release choke as needed, pull in clutch, set off stand ride to store for beer to celebrate both New Years, and the official "First Firing of the Whizzer bike"

  3. KilroyCD

    KilroyCD Active Member

    When it's cold outside, you may need to try that procedure several times to get it started. I know I do with my 2005 NE-5, yet on warmer days it'll start first kick. You might need to fiddle with the choke, as it may take full or only partial choke to get it started.
  4. Hal the Elder

    Hal the Elder Member

    Starting Oscar, My 2005 NE-5 with 100 miles :


    I always start Oscar cold with the choke fully applied, and with the right-hand pedal up at the 1 or 2 o'clock position as viewed from the right side of the machine.

    A single firm thrust with my right leg starts him every time, but for a while after starting, the engine sounds like it's firing on the 4th revolution, instead of the normal 2nd, as though it had a miss.

    As the engine warms and I gradually open up the choke, it will will pick up its normal cadence of putt-putt-putt-putt, instead of the initial "cold start miss" of putt......putt......putt......putt.

    It takes a full minute of fast idle before I can release the throttle and allow Oscar to idle unattended, while I strap on my helmet and slip on my gloves.

    Then I release the choke completely, push off the stand, and go Four-Stroking down the curve of Eyota Road!

    Yep, today's short 4-mile ride was sweet! I was able to crest Wadena Hill at 26 MPH, where before I could make only 22-23 MPH! If I had the nerve, I'll bet I could make 35MPH if I scrunched down to minimize wind resistance, and tried it on a mile-long level stretch of road with no wind.

    But 45 MPH? Naaahh...I doubt if it would make 38, even with my intake and exhaust restrictions removed and my valve timing advanced by one tooth, as it is now.

    (here's the road in front of my house:)

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 5, 2009
  5. smitty

    smitty Guest

    On my classic Whizzer;
    On the first start of the day, after turning on the switches and choke, with the bike on the center stand, I like to get astride the bike and, while holding the compression release, turn several revolutions of the crank to splash the oil around before I let go of the compression release lever. It always fires up pretty quickly. I'll let it idle for a minute or so before I put the choke in the middle and ride off.
    After several more minutes, I switch the choke off.
    Once it's warm I generally start it with a push (holding, then let go of the compression release) and hop on.

    On the Board Track Style Whizzer;
    Because it lacks a center stand, and has a centrifugal clutch, I have to pedal it down the street with a full choke and the compression release etc., If it starts first time I move the choke to the middle after a minute. The BTR has a foible (idiosincrasy). If the engine "pops" but doesn't start, the auto clutch won't lock up to push the engine, unless I come to a complete stop, and start again. It doesn't seem to be a problem once the engine is warm. Once warm I use the push and hop method.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 8, 2009