butre
Well-Known Member
not inspecting an engine before first operation is user error.
How much pedaling do you do?
- Thread starter Nanonevol
- Start date
Well your posts here have proven my point, CG's are notorious pieces or ****e.You said "a mechanic can keep these running", not everybody is, or wants to be a mechanic.If you have to "inspect" an engine you bought brand new, and haven't even run, it's a piece of ****e.When you buy a car, do you crack the case and mill the head, or do you gas it and go?When you buy a hair drier, do you take out the brushes to see that they're well seated?If you have to do further machining to something you are my version of "penny wise and pound foolish"
you think you're saving by buying cheap up front, but end up spending more than you would if you bought quality to begin with, not to mention all the time=money spent tinkering, when quality is flying.
butre
Well-Known Member
I like tinkering. not my issue that you don't. the first thing I do with literally anything I buy whether it's made by chicago electric or by fein is take it apart and learn everything I can and try to figure out why the engineers designed it the way they did.
and yes, I have bought cars and immediately tore down the engine before ever even running it. voiding warranties is what I live for
and yes, I have bought cars and immediately tore down the engine before ever even running it. voiding warranties is what I live for
Broad stroke statements make me wonder if you can appreciate something that was designed to, AND DOES work well.I like tinkering, but I'd rather make a smoked electronics board work, or get my guitars actions "just so".Yeah harbor freight, why not take it apart, but a dewalt, a makita, a ferrari, or in our circles, a RS EH035, no need to take them apart, only a fool would.They are perfected, work like a swiss clock, and (aside the ferrari) are cheaper in the long run.All I'm saying is, CG's are HF equal, japanese quality are Bosch/DeWalt equal.A new CG requires a breakdown before the first ride, a tanaka, after being ragged by children on a scooter, will run faithfully for another 1000 hrs before you need to replace the upper end.
I suppose I could've summed it like this: The fact that, you can hop up, and get a Yugo to run well,... doesn't make it a good choice.
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KCvale
In memory of KCvale 1959 - 2019
I don't know about you guys, but I like way more power than I typically use for those times when I actually need everything it can give!
With a drive train perfect for having some power to climb hills perfect for something like this...
Or the go-kart you got it from.
You know, I'd bet a simple 24V hub drive on the front would make that a pretty cool system on a bike, extra power with a thumb lever when you need it, or run out of gas, or just tired of pedaling.
Talking Price/cc for 4-stroke is another matter.
That 30cc Subaru is $16 a cc, will run forever, easy, but wimpy.
A 49cc Hausheng engine is $3 a cc, runs almost forever, easy, and over twice as powerful.
A 79cc Harbor Freight Predator is $3.75 a cc, not known for quality, far from easy, but really powerful.
And that is just engines.
They all need drive trains.
So just over $16 a cc for a wimpy stand alone 30cc engine that will run forever. Cool.
With a drive train perfect for having some power to climb hills perfect for something like this...
Or the go-kart you got it from.
You know, I'd bet a simple 24V hub drive on the front would make that a pretty cool system on a bike, extra power with a thumb lever when you need it, or run out of gas, or just tired of pedaling.
Talking Price/cc for 4-stroke is another matter.
That 30cc Subaru is $16 a cc, will run forever, easy, but wimpy.
A 49cc Hausheng engine is $3 a cc, runs almost forever, easy, and over twice as powerful.
A 79cc Harbor Freight Predator is $3.75 a cc, not known for quality, far from easy, but really powerful.
And that is just engines.
They all need drive trains.
butre
Well-Known Member
I don't know about you guys, but I like way more power than I typically use for those times when I actually need everything it can give!
So just over $16 a cc for a wimpy stand alone 30cc engine that will run forever. Cool.
With a drive train perfect for having some power to climb hills perfect for something like this...
Or the go-kart you got it from.
You know, I'd bet a simple 24V hub drive on the front would make that a pretty cool system on a bike, extra power with a thumb lever when you need it, or run out of gas, or just tired of pedaling.
Talking Price/cc for 4-stroke is another matter.
That 30cc Subaru is $16 a cc, will run forever, easy, but wimpy.
A 49cc Hausheng engine is $3 a cc, runs almost forever, easy, and over twice as powerful.
A 79cc Harbor Freight Predator is $3.75 a cc, not known for quality, far from easy, but really powerful.
And that is just engines.
They all need drive trains.
forget dollars per CC, China Girls have them all beat in dollars per smile.
Yes, but you buy pallets of engines at a time, and then must sell said engines, you have a "salesman agenda" which is fine.You did a cost per cc, now do a mileage comparison over a five year span.You say "go -cart you got it from" a not too subtile nod trying to say "you're using a toy, child", if it came off a concrete screed would that be manly enough for you??Who cares where it came from if it's a superior engine??For the record, they came in a box from Staton, the box wasn't pink if that matters.
What range does the 24V system you talked about have, what kind of weight?I look at a bike build like I would a aircraft build, the lighter the better everything else will work, you can make a brick fly, but it's still a flying brick.As to all the other reasons why electric is not a viable source of power I link this:https://www.electricbike.com/dangers/
until EL has the power/weight/range of an EH035 or Mitsubishi TLE 43 it's no good, OR show me one EL commercial production passenger airplane, then I'll look at EL again.
I guess you build for people going short 20 mile trips (on the long end), I sometimes do 100+ milers.My agenda has to do with what's:
1) Going to work
2) Going to last
3) Going to weigh next to nothing
4) Going to get the best mileage
5) Going to ASSIST me on my bicycle, not be an overpowered wannabe motorcycle.
but not all of us want to pop wheelies, nor are we all 250lbs+, and I would argue, if the bike can pop wheelies, some idiot who doesn't know how to ride will get hurt, and that will affect other riders in regards to laws.
If tanakas and RS EHO35's were wimpy, they wouldn't be on the best auger diggers and concrete screeds.You have nice builds KC, but if you can't admit chinese is of considerable lower quality in every regard, down to the cast AL used in the cases, well,... you're not fooling me.
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Here's a little cost comparison, you suggested a 24V front hub system would replace an EHO.
An EHO new costs, say $500 (though they can easily be had used for less and still a better buy than a new CG)
They will run perfectly for 4-5 years before you have to adjust the valves
Then you have anothe 3-4 years of perfect running.
GEBE all up weight 14lbs
Run in the dead of 100+ temp summers, no sweat
On the high end, I get 185MPG.I often do 80 mile trips no fills, no problems/adjustments.
A 24V system (on quick research) goes for $200-$300
Range, is a meger 20-30 miles
The hub motor has a 1-2 year lifespan (another $200 every 2 years)
The batteries the same lifespan (another ??$$ every 2 years)
EL get sketchy when it gets hot out
Weight 25-30lbs
Not even coming close to a possibility for an EH035 replacement.
I've bought, by design two each of the following.
Robin Subaru EH035
Mitsubishi TLE 43
Tanaka PF4000
These are miser "MINE" (bought before the fukishima cost rise), not bought to build and sell off in a motorized bicycle buisness.Bought because I researched for years, here and elsewhere, because they are the best.
I read the 2stroke section, and wonder why anyone would consider a CG, but I suppose it a bit of lack of $$, common sense, and a lot of monkey see monkey do.
An EHO new costs, say $500 (though they can easily be had used for less and still a better buy than a new CG)
They will run perfectly for 4-5 years before you have to adjust the valves
Then you have anothe 3-4 years of perfect running.
GEBE all up weight 14lbs
Run in the dead of 100+ temp summers, no sweat
On the high end, I get 185MPG.I often do 80 mile trips no fills, no problems/adjustments.
A 24V system (on quick research) goes for $200-$300
Range, is a meger 20-30 miles
The hub motor has a 1-2 year lifespan (another $200 every 2 years)
The batteries the same lifespan (another ??$$ every 2 years)
EL get sketchy when it gets hot out
Weight 25-30lbs
Not even coming close to a possibility for an EH035 replacement.
I've bought, by design two each of the following.
Robin Subaru EH035
Mitsubishi TLE 43
Tanaka PF4000
These are miser "MINE" (bought before the fukishima cost rise), not bought to build and sell off in a motorized bicycle buisness.Bought because I researched for years, here and elsewhere, because they are the best.
I read the 2stroke section, and wonder why anyone would consider a CG, but I suppose it a bit of lack of $$, common sense, and a lot of monkey see monkey do.
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Are you sure, check the FIRST page of the 2stroke section, I saw at least two "it won't start" posts, then one about a plug shooting out of the head, I doubt they were smiling, and can assure they are getting NO mileage.These are off the opening page of the 2stroke section, no smiles or miles, maybe a bit of buyers remorse.My personal favs are, gas and oil coming out the exhaust, piston stuck inside cylinder, and the spark plug bullet.
1.
Post Rear tire and motor locked up
Started by ayo2001, 1 Day Ago
2.
[Engine Trouble] spark plug shot out of head
Started by nishikidrift, 4 Days Ago
2 Pages •
1 2
problems, spark plug, troubleshoot wont start
3.
[Carby] need more throttle cable
Started by daveet66, 1 Week Ago
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crassius
crassius
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[Carby] Idleing problems
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[Engine Trouble] Idling problems after taking engine apart
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The_Aleman
Well-Known Member
2008 called, it wants it's motorized bicycle forum arguments back.
Been there, done that, got the t-shirt, used the t-shirt as a rag, threw out the rag because it had too many holes in it.
Bringing this thread back to it's point, rather than continuing the same old tired "chinagirl vs 4-stroke vs rack-mount vs frame-mount" arguments.
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Having pedaled well into the 6 digit miles in my life, I still feel naturally inclined to pedal. I can't pedal as long as I used to, which is why I originally got into this thing.
I pedal when I take off, pedal when I want to accelerate, ghost pedal when cruising 25+. My bike is a shifter 4G setup, and I've been through 5 or 6 different gear combinations.
My current combination allows for 15RPM cadence per 1000RPM engine. I'm hoping to drop the cadence a little closer to 12 per 1K to get even more usefulness from Chevrolegs.
There's really something special about a setup that allows pedal cadence "redline" and engine redline to be matched.
You'll end up with a quite powerful MaB regardless of displacement.
Been there, done that, got the t-shirt, used the t-shirt as a rag, threw out the rag because it had too many holes in it.
Bringing this thread back to it's point, rather than continuing the same old tired "chinagirl vs 4-stroke vs rack-mount vs frame-mount" arguments.
-----------
Having pedaled well into the 6 digit miles in my life, I still feel naturally inclined to pedal. I can't pedal as long as I used to, which is why I originally got into this thing.
I pedal when I take off, pedal when I want to accelerate, ghost pedal when cruising 25+. My bike is a shifter 4G setup, and I've been through 5 or 6 different gear combinations.
My current combination allows for 15RPM cadence per 1000RPM engine. I'm hoping to drop the cadence a little closer to 12 per 1K to get even more usefulness from Chevrolegs.
There's really something special about a setup that allows pedal cadence "redline" and engine redline to be matched.
You'll end up with a quite powerful MaB regardless of displacement.
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