How tight does the rear sprocket set up have to be?

Discussion in 'Frame Mounted Engines' started by PabstBlueRibbonrulz!, May 12, 2009.

  1. I am installing the rear sprocket and I want to know how tight it should be secured. i.e. How much (if any) space should be between the 2 black donuts and the spokes?

    Also, one of the spokes rests in the slit I had to make in the inner donut. Will this throw off the wheel alignment? Should I make it so no spoke rests in the slit.

    If I do this correctly is there a chance it will warp the spokes and force me to get it professionally trued?

    You fellas have been a tremendous help. Many thanks.

  2. HI,

    While definitely NOT scientific I would say "firmly smug".....Tighten in a star / criss cross fashion about equally and you should be good to go....It is nearly impossible to achieve a perfect sprocket mounting with the stock rubber mount setup.

    Hard mount is definitely the way go.

  3. BoltsMissing

    BoltsMissing Active Member

    Some "visual concept" may get some understanding.

    I smear the rubber with Catrol Rubber Grease. ( had heaps left over from cager front end repair days)
    With the grease you will be able to centre it as best as u can while just firming up.

    Hi-Tensile bolts and 2 sets of nuts, 3 sets of washers, 1 set of washers being larger than the other so to try and get as much even tension as possible, one set of nuts being "Nylex Lock Nuts".

    miss-1-do-1-miss-1-do-1, starting at the centre of those half moon shape plates with the normal type nuts
    Andy is right to, as long as you get a even progressive spread.

    Tighten around and around bit by bit, you'll find when you start at bolt 1, by the time you get to do the 9th and back to bolt 1, it's got more threads again.
    Do the same, go around again, probably a few times, eventually the rubber mounts will bottom out.
    You can "adjust" along the way and spin the wheel on it's axle, some bolts may have to be evenly spread a bit if the sprocket wobble is excessive.

    Once ya done all that, lock em all up with the "Nylex Lock Nuts", using a ratchet ring spanner make it easier.

    I don't know about anyone else, but I always get the wheel spokes trued and firmed up a bit first, then fit on the sprocket.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 18, 2009
  4. what has worked best for me is taking out the outer donut all together. its much easier to true up the sprocket because it sets itself on the hub. A beveled sproket works best for chain/tire clearance. try it out, im goin on 2000 km with no warped spokes
  5. I put mine on tight with a rubber gasket on outside and one on inside other wise spoke failure _WILL_ OCCUR in time. Learned this from experience, I use the stock bolts with a washer then thread them in and use the lock washer but buy nylocs for the final nut and havent had any losen up with over 380 miles and spokes that where being ground down by the sprocket being bolted to spoke without rubber gasket inbetween. I changed to a 36 tooth sprocket and found the damage that was hidden before it was to late. I center the sprocket on hub and snug all bolts then hold a magic marker in my hand as i spin the wheel and put marker on spinning sprocket barely. Then i can see high and low wobble points,tighten the side the hits ,wipe it off and spin again . Repeat till sprocket is no longer wobbley.
  6. Sowhatu

    Sowhatu New Member

    one section of my sprocket doesnt line up with chain, seems it was because a bolt was stripped of its threads thus making one section of sprocket loose...
    now i need to take wheel off and tighten all bolts. cuz too hard with wheel attached.
    guess i "should" buy locknuts eh?

    been meaning to get em for months now, always forget.