How tight must cylinder head be?

[dontworryaboutmyusername]

When clutch is NOT engaged, the rear tire should NOT drag and the wheel should rotate freely. otherwise you will totally burn out and destroy your clutch.

Here below is how to adjust the clutch properly.

When adjusting the flower nut on the clutch, make sure that you have the clutch lever pulled in and locked in place. (Disengaged)

Tighten the flower nut until you can't turn the back wheel at all, from there, turn the nut counter clockwise a "notch" at a time until you get the rear wheel to turn freely by hand and stop right there and put the lock screw back in place at that notch where the wheel just starts to turn freely.

When you release the clutch lever, (clutch fully engaged), it should of course be totally locked up and at this point you should have it right.

Im confused - the rear wheel should rotate freely when I engage the clutch, ie: I pull the clutch handle and I can ride and peddle the bike like normal - when the clutch is NOT engaged, ie: I am not pulling the clutch then the rear tire should not rotate freely (or possibly a weebit as chainlube mentioned).

Otherwise I dont see any isues with the clutch, its firm and disengages / engages smoothly and the bike rides smooth - I was thinking the tire movement when pushing the bike forward with the clutch NOT engaged would indicate a compression / leak issue. The clutch may not be 100% perfect, but even when firmly tugging on the clutch arm on the actual engine itself to confirm its not engaged what so ever I still have have the tire rotating a weebit when pushing the bike forward like in the video.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Im confused - the rear wheel should rotate freely when I engage the clutch

Clutch is DISENGAGED when handle lever is pulled in and locked in place.

Clutch is ENGAGED when handle lever is totally released and the wheel should be locked, not moving forward at all when pushing the bike.

when I engage the clutch, ie: I pull the clutch handle

Pulling the handle in is NOT engaging the clutch, It is disengageing the clutch allowing you to pedal...If a clutch is engaged, you would NOT be able to pedal

Releasing the handle all the way out is ENGAGING the clutch.

Just like with a car...pushing the clutch pedal to the floor is DISENGAGEING the clutch.

And talking your foot off the clutch pedal is allowing the clutch to ENGAGE.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

I still have have the tire rotating a weebit when pushing the bike forward

It should not be ANY drag in the tire rotating, Not even a weebit, when the clutch handle is pulled in and locked, (disengaged), That would mean that the clutch is still lightly engaged if this is whats happening and when under power it is going to burn out the clutch eventually.

 

[dontworryaboutmyusername]

It should not be ANY drag in the tire rotating, Not even a weebit, when the clutch handle is pulled in and locked, (disengaged), That would mean that the clutch is still lightly engaged if this is whats happening and when under power it is going to burn out the clutch eventually.

Sorry - my misunderstanding caused some confusion. When the clutch is disengaged, there is no drag, tire rotates freely. When the clutch is engaged the tire drags but rotates a weebit including the piston when pushing bike forward - my concern was this may indicate not a perfect seal or compression - another member posted a weebit of movement like this is fine.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

weebit of movement like this is fine.

Yep...lol.

 

[weefek]

I mean no offense, but, use your common sense man.... when the clutch in engaged with the motor running you're driving the bike with the engine, aren't you? So why would you think with the motor off it's any different? Of course it's gonna move the engine. There is no such thing as a perfect seal. If there's no oil/gas coming out from around your head gasket than there is no leak. Spark plugs can leak a bit occasionally but nothing to really worry about. Head gasket / base gasket is the real culprit usually. Maybe a crank seal.