lowracer
Member
I have now made 2 V-belt drive sheaves for 2 different MB's that I run using direct drive without the need for a jackshaft to get the correct reduction.
One of them is a 26" Mtb wheel & just today I did a 700c (29'er wheel).
- Start with a spoked wheel that you want to add the sheave onto.
- Take another wheel of the same size & remove all the spokes & hub leaving just a hoop.
- Use a hand file & file the non-drive side (left) sidewall of the spoked wheel & one side of the hoop. (rough surfaces are better for the bonding)
- Clean both filed sidewalls with rubbing alcohol & a clean rag.
- Mix up some JB Weld & apply to both cleaned up sidewalls.
- Make sure NOT to line up the spoked wheel spoke holes to the hoop spoke holes. Offset these... (you'll need to drill 4 holes later after its all dry in the spoked wheel between spokes to mount braces).
- Put the hoop on top of the spoked wheel & line up perfectly
- Allow to dry at least a full day or longer to insure a good bond.
- Remove all rim tape before drilling (will need to replace rim tape)
- Drill 4 small holes on opposing sides of the rim (for balance when spinning) between spokes, to mount 4 small pieces of aluminum stock to brace the inside of the two sandwiched rims at 4 points. I use the existing spoke holes in the hoop so I dont need to drill the hoop. Make sure to remove all aluminum drilling burrs
- Run nylock nuts & bolts thru the holes & aluminum stock pieces at the 4 points bracing the wheel/pulley from the inside. This will also allow you to still use rim brakes but wiould need to set them up wider. Disc wheels are better since the braking is done elsewhere on the wheels.
- Depending on rear triangle clearances & hoop width, Tire choices may be limited to narrower tires. I run a 1.25 on the front of my DH MTB Beast. Will probably run a 700x35 on the rear of the other MB.
Take a look at the pics. I haven't done the bracing yet. Just waiting for everything to dry.
The Matrix singlewall rim I found worked out real well as a pulley due to the spoke channel being V shaped to match the V-belt exactly.
If you use 2 deep V rims, you can bolt straight thru the V portion after gluing & avoid the aluminum stock bracing.
-Lowracer-
One of them is a 26" Mtb wheel & just today I did a 700c (29'er wheel).
- Start with a spoked wheel that you want to add the sheave onto.
- Take another wheel of the same size & remove all the spokes & hub leaving just a hoop.
- Use a hand file & file the non-drive side (left) sidewall of the spoked wheel & one side of the hoop. (rough surfaces are better for the bonding)
- Clean both filed sidewalls with rubbing alcohol & a clean rag.
- Mix up some JB Weld & apply to both cleaned up sidewalls.
- Make sure NOT to line up the spoked wheel spoke holes to the hoop spoke holes. Offset these... (you'll need to drill 4 holes later after its all dry in the spoked wheel between spokes to mount braces).
- Put the hoop on top of the spoked wheel & line up perfectly
- Allow to dry at least a full day or longer to insure a good bond.
- Remove all rim tape before drilling (will need to replace rim tape)
- Drill 4 small holes on opposing sides of the rim (for balance when spinning) between spokes, to mount 4 small pieces of aluminum stock to brace the inside of the two sandwiched rims at 4 points. I use the existing spoke holes in the hoop so I dont need to drill the hoop. Make sure to remove all aluminum drilling burrs
- Run nylock nuts & bolts thru the holes & aluminum stock pieces at the 4 points bracing the wheel/pulley from the inside. This will also allow you to still use rim brakes but wiould need to set them up wider. Disc wheels are better since the braking is done elsewhere on the wheels.
- Depending on rear triangle clearances & hoop width, Tire choices may be limited to narrower tires. I run a 1.25 on the front of my DH MTB Beast. Will probably run a 700x35 on the rear of the other MB.
Take a look at the pics. I haven't done the bracing yet. Just waiting for everything to dry.
The Matrix singlewall rim I found worked out real well as a pulley due to the spoke channel being V shaped to match the V-belt exactly.
If you use 2 deep V rims, you can bolt straight thru the V portion after gluing & avoid the aluminum stock bracing.
-Lowracer-
Attachments
Last edited: