arkives1
Member
How to remove drive sprocket
Hi Steve, I've tried all the above tactics and that thing still refused to come off, a friend of mine came over and he applied pressure on the wrench as I slipped a thick flat screwdriver behind the sprocket at the hub and tapped in inward with a hammer, still no good. We then used an air driven die grinder and a small carbide burr running as slow as we could get it to go. We ground a bit of the aluminum casing behind the gear away, just a tiny bit. We couldn't get all the way around the sprocket but apparently we hit the right spots, a bit of polishing there and on the nub where the engine mounting screws are along with a generous dab of high viscosity grease and now it's quiet and smooth. Not sure if it will last or not but for now it seems to have worked. One word of advice to any one else using that last method, be sure to use plenty of cutting oil or grease on the carbide burr. The metal is soft and will gum up the burr quickly and is nearly impossible to remove. I learned that lesson long ago in my pattern making work. I still have another engine that has a small gear that needs to come out, we had the same problem with it, it wouldn't budge. We decided that after our weather warms up in late spring we will strip both engines down to parts and re-work what ever needs attention. Thanks Steve, the pipe helped, it didn't get the sprocket off but it did get his big hands out of the way. Woody
Hi Woody. I'll assume that you have a puller as supplied with most kits.
Generally, when using that type of puller, tighten the 14mm bolt as far as you can, then tap the head with a steel, (not rubber, as suggested), hammer. Tighten more, tap more, etc.
Don't give up. Like dropping a ball joint in a car, it'll loosen eventually. Usually just when you think it'll never come loose and aren't expecting it.
Don't hit too hard, either.
I also used water-pipe on the 14mm socket's wrench handle, when removing the clutch using the supplied tool, to increase leverage.
... Steve
Hi Steve, I've tried all the above tactics and that thing still refused to come off, a friend of mine came over and he applied pressure on the wrench as I slipped a thick flat screwdriver behind the sprocket at the hub and tapped in inward with a hammer, still no good. We then used an air driven die grinder and a small carbide burr running as slow as we could get it to go. We ground a bit of the aluminum casing behind the gear away, just a tiny bit. We couldn't get all the way around the sprocket but apparently we hit the right spots, a bit of polishing there and on the nub where the engine mounting screws are along with a generous dab of high viscosity grease and now it's quiet and smooth. Not sure if it will last or not but for now it seems to have worked. One word of advice to any one else using that last method, be sure to use plenty of cutting oil or grease on the carbide burr. The metal is soft and will gum up the burr quickly and is nearly impossible to remove. I learned that lesson long ago in my pattern making work. I still have another engine that has a small gear that needs to come out, we had the same problem with it, it wouldn't budge. We decided that after our weather warms up in late spring we will strip both engines down to parts and re-work what ever needs attention. Thanks Steve, the pipe helped, it didn't get the sprocket off but it did get his big hands out of the way. Woody