HT 80cc Clutch question

atomicmiata

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The clutch seems stiff and cheesy.
Anyone have a clue how long the clutch should last?
(it seems fragile...)
(HT 80cc 2 stroke engine from boygofast)

thanks
steve in frederick, md
 

spunout

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The clutch seems stiff and cheesy.
Anyone have a clue how long the clutch should last?
(it seems fragile...)
(HT 80cc 2 stroke engine from boygofast)

hmm....what, exactly, do you mean? the clutch operation itself, or the clutch lever, or....? engine running, or not running when it feels stiff and cheesed?

perhaps, you could try and be a little more specific about what you mean.;)
 

atomicmiata

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HT 80cc clutch

hmm....what, exactly, do you mean? the clutch operation itself, or the clutch lever, or....? engine running, or not running when it feels stiff and cheesed?

perhaps, you could try and be a little more specific about what you mean.;)


the clutch operation itself. perhaps an unfair comparison, but compared to a motorcycle clutch, the engagement window is narrow and not that smooth and the level of effort to work the clutch lever is a bit on the high side. my bike only has 50 or so miles on it so far, and I pulled the clutch cover to take a peek, and there was already a lot of clutch material fluffed around the inside of the clutch area. just wondering if the clutch will last a while or not. how far do folks get on a clutch?

thanks!
-s.
 
G

Ghost0

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Here is my $.02, these clutches are not designed to be used as a means of initiating forward motion from a stand still unless you are geared extremely low, which unless you have multiple gears is not recommended. It is basically nothing more than an on/off switch allowing you to disengage when stopping and to bump start the motor.

With a little tweaking you can get it to function smoothly however, here are a couple of tips.
1. Remove the extra spring that runs from the adjuster to the clutch arm on the engine. It is completely unnecessary and only adds extra resistance to pulling your clutch lever.
2. Lube your cable, the cable and housing are of low quality but with a lot of lube can work fine.
3. Lube the actuating pin and ball inside the output sprocket on the engine. This will also make the clutch smoother.
Hope this helps.
 

spunout

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With a little tweaking you can get it to function smoothly however, here are a couple of tips.
1. Remove the extra spring that runs from the adjuster to the clutch arm on the engine. It is completely unnecessary and only adds extra resistance to pulling your clutch lever.
2. Lube your cable, the cable and housing are of low quality but with a lot of lube can work fine.
3. Lube the actuating pin and ball inside the output sprocket on the engine. This will also make the clutch smoother.
Hope this helps.

good advice, ghosto.
the 'fluff' you see, is ground-up asbestos and brass fibers. thats what the clutch pads are made of, so wash your hands after touching that stuff :yuck:
as far as how long the clutch pads last, i haven't had to replace any of mine yet, and i have 12,000miles and 14,000miles on my personal bikes.
I 'cheat' a little, once they start slipping, by tightening the pressure-plate nut some, and roughing the pads up with sandpaper. but, when they completely wear out, MBc member motorbikemike (simpsonmotorbikes) has them uber-cheap. cheaper to replace the pads than a whole new disc.
 

atomicmiata

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Thanks Ghost0, your tips helped a lot!

spunout, your clutch mileage is impressive.
sounds like they are durable!
thanks...

-steve
 
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