Huasheng 142F crankcase oil seal #?

RedDevil

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So I recently realized my clutch was metal to metal (first time having a motorized bike) and also noticed a little oil behind the clutch when replacing said clutch. I put it all back together and it seemed a bit slower than before but not horribly (person who sold it to me also removed all the clutch springs for whatever reason prior to selling me this bike and didn't tell me) and so I kept driving it. Well it's now slower than before right after I installed the new clutch. Mutch slower (like 20mph compared to the 32 I was getting) and seems like the rpms are very high so im thinking slipping clutch due to oil? Anyways, does anybody have a part number for the crankcase oil seal that's around the shaft by chance? And also does anybody know why the springs on the clutch might have been removed in the first place? Thank you!
 
If you can get some measurements off it you could probably find one from a Honda that will fit.
I believe that's what I'm going to do tomorrow after work while inspecting the new clutch. Was curious if anyone knew any part numbers or had any links off the top of their head so I could possibly order one on amazon tonight and get it here tomorrow to install while in the process of inspecting the clutch. What would your best guess be as to why the previous owner had the clutch springs removed? I'm guessing they're called retention springs or something similar? I've worked on cars a while but only really a parts replacer lol. When it comes down to measurements and such i usually try to stay away from that type of stuff. Can swap and engine and transmission but when it comes to understanding the how's and why's of things and measurements count me out 😅
 
I believe that's what I'm going to do tomorrow after work while inspecting the new clutch. Was curious if anyone knew any part numbers or had any links off the top of their head so I could possibly order one on amazon tonight and get it here tomorrow to install while in the process of inspecting the clutch. What would your best guess be as to why the previous owner had the clutch springs removed? I'm guessing they're called retention springs or something similar? I've worked on cars a while but only really a parts replacer lol. When it comes down to measurements and such i usually try to stay away from that type of stuff. Can swap and engine and transmission but when it comes to understanding the how's and why's of things and measurements count me out 😅
There's not a lot of four stroke guys in here and those that are I doubt would know the size or part #. Sorry mate. I have no clue as to why the springs would have been pulled from the clutch. That's a very stupid thing IMO
 
Centrifugal clutch
Dude removed the clutch springs because he didn't know what the heck he was doing

Clutch engagement springs come in different strengths for different RPM clutch engagement
 
So I recently realized my clutch was metal to metal (first time having a motorized bike) and also noticed a little oil behind the clutch when replacing said clutch. I put it all back together and it seemed a bit slower than before but not horribly (person who sold it to me also removed all the clutch springs for whatever reason prior to selling me this bike and didn't tell me) and so I kept driving it. Well it's now slower than before right after I installed the new clutch. Mutch slower (like 20mph compared to the 32 I was getting) and seems like the rpms are very high so im thinking slipping clutch due to oil? Anyways, does anybody have a part number for the crankcase oil seal that's around the shaft by chance? And also does anybody know why the springs on the clutch might have been removed in the first place? Thank you!
Are you sure you didn't overfill it with oil? Is the inside of your breather box all oily? That happened to me and I thought the crank seal was leaking, clutch side was all wet from the flywheel fan blowing oil all over. If overfilled it will leak from the airbox recirculating tube/airbox that goes into the crank case.
 
How does a person overfill the 142F? Just when the dipstick shows full, the oil level in the crankcase will begin to flow out from the lowest part of the dipstick hole. Am I right about that?
 
Not having the engine perfectly flat while filling. Filling it to the top of the threads etc. My best guess on my error is the motor wasn't perfectly level when changing the oil. They only hold 4oz or so, a few more ounces will pour out through the recirculate tube going to the air breather. Mist mostly but oil gets everywhere with the fan blowing on it.
 
My 142F takes 8.5 fluid ounces of oil. Make sure the engine is level and the oil level will be at the bottom of the threads. If you take the springs out the clutch it will engage and lock up sooner. In your case, too soon! You'll probably have a hard time getting started because the engine will be trying to get you going before it reaches it's max torq rpms. New clutches for the straight shaft motor are kinda hard to find. Here's a pic of mine and a place to get 'em on E-bay. Get all the oil washed out of your drum before installing the new clutch and you'll be OK.


my 142f Clutch .JPG
 
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Centrifugal clutch
Dude removed the clutch springs because he didn't know what the heck he was doing

Clutch engagement springs come in different strengths for different RPM clutch engagement
That would make more sense... I had to travel 17 miles one way yesterday and a couple miles before my destination the clutch was smoked. Absolutely no clutch pad left on a brand new clutch I installed the day before with 0 miles on it. Also with a new clutch drum. I'm guessing the spring strength was incorrect and caused it to slip and not fully engage which just tore it apart? Bought it off Amazon and even said it was for the 142f and it looked almost identical to OEM clutch. I did check the oil level as well on level ground this time and it was overfilled. Decided to just change to oil and add the correct amount. There was very little oil from the crankcase seal this time behind the clutch so definitely not oil getting on the clutch. That makes 2 new clutches that have burnt up in less than 20 miles. One that was a bit different than the OEM looking one with orange pads (supposedly better) and the OEM lookalike. I ended up having to take the springs off of the first one I installed with very little pad left and swapping that one in to make it back home. Which then it started to get back to the speed it was getting before (30-32mph) and took off alot better with no clutch slippage but also went back to vibrating alot more. I'm at a loss of what to do. Just get a new clutch and remove the springs and run it? Or find a clutch with lower spring strength and try that? I mean I'd obviously want to get it correct with finding a lower spring strength one id assume but the hunting for a clutch with those specs seems like it's going to be difficult. This is my daily to and from everywhere so having it reliable is definitely my first and foremost priority...
 
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