Huasheng 142F crankcase oil seal #?

[Gordy]

Look around for a spring kit that comes with different strength springs.

 

[Darwin]

My 142F takes 8.5 fluid ounces of oil. Make sure the engine is level and the oil level will be at the bottom of the threads. If you take the springs out the clutch it will engage and lock up sooner. In your case, too soon! You'll probably have a hard time getting started because the engine will be trying to get you going before it reaches it's max torq rpms. New clutches for the straight shaft motor are kinda hard to find. Here's a pic of mine and a place to get 'em on E-bay. Get all the oil washed out of your drum before installing the new clutch and you'll be OK.

Pardon Our Interruption...

View attachment 215103

Above is correct, 8.5oz. I was incorrect at 4oz in earlier post. I might have been mixed up thinking about a GX 35cc.

 

[michael whiteman]

In the last 3 years I have been on this forum I have not read about the problem you're having with springs. The 142F is pretty solid. I have never seen a Spring Kit offered for a clutch like ours. Now that you have extra springs you could cut them down some or use washers to make them stronger. I assume nothing has changed on your bike to make the engine work harder to make it go. I'm out of ideas. Let us know what you're doing next and maybe someone will get one.

 

[Wrench]

That would make more sense... I had to travel 17 miles one way yesterday and a couple miles before my destination the clutch was smoked. Absolutely no clutch pad left on a brand new clutch I installed the day before with 0 miles on it. Also with a new clutch drum. I'm guessing the spring strength was incorrect and caused it to slip and not fully engage which just tore it apart? Bought it off Amazon and even said it was for the 142f and it looked almost identical to OEM clutch. I did check the oil level as well on level ground this time and it was overfilled. Decided to just change to oil and add the correct amount. There was very little oil from the crankcase seal this time behind the clutch so definitely not oil getting on the clutch. That makes 2 new clutches that have burnt up in less than 20 miles. One that was a bit different than the OEM looking one with orange pads (supposedly better) and the OEM lookalike. I ended up having to take the springs off of the first one I installed with very little pad left and swapping that one in to make it back home. Which then it started to get back to the speed it was getting before (30-32mph) and took off alot better with no clutch slippage but also went back to vibrating alot more. I'm at a loss of what to do. Just get a new clutch and remove the springs and run it? Or find a clutch with lower spring strength and try that? I mean I'd obviously want to get it correct with finding a lower spring strength one id assume but the hunting for a clutch with those specs seems like it's going to be difficult. This is my daily to and from everywhere so having it reliable is definitely my first and foremost priority...

If the clutch pads are getting chewed up within 20 miles then the organic pad material is defective and the resin used wasn't mixed right

I suggest buying a clutch from a different vendor or buying a different clutch

Weak springs wouldn't cause the pads to get chewed up or slip
Weak springs cause the clutch to engage at low RPMs
I think the clutch you have now engages at 1k or 1500 rpm

I'm pretty sure you need to find a clutch that engages @ 2200 rpm - 3k rpm
Sometimes the shoes need a burn in period They will burn, glaze over and slip, not get chewed up
Sand the glaze off and the shoes are good again and usually don't slip again after they're broken in

There is an Upgraded Clutch for your 142f that engages over 2200 rpm but I don't have a link.
Maybe another member will chime in shortly with that info