HuaSheng 142F vs Honda GXH50 vs Dax XC50s

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hey 2old, you might even want to check the valve clearances on that engine. That's an important part of keeping this engine type running well.

link: http://www.motoredbikes.com/showthread.php?38514-How-to-adjust-your-GXH50-Huasheng-Titan-valves
Very good idea, I was going to suggest the same thing, except I didn't know what the clearance was off the top of my head. The other thing I would have suggested is that you flush the crankcase out with some kerosene to get the sludge out before you put new oil in, that stuff tends to stick to everything so it doesn't just come out with the old oil. But that also largely would have depended on what the old oil looked and smelled like, as well. It's not that easy to know how cared for or neglected a used engine has been. I got a hot cam for mine, but I can't remember where I bought it from.
 
I'll take a look at the valve clearance. Being old school, I have feeler gauges and micrometers. Even have a timing light somewhere around here! The oil looked fairly clean as though it had been changed and not run much afterwords. Everything about the motor suggests that it has little use on it. I also have the Stanton friction drive assembly that was mounted on it and it also appears to have little use.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm learning as I go.
 
Make sure the engine is level when you check the oil and use the best you can find! Oil Changing Kit 142-f Engine.jpgLevel For Oil Change.jpgTip for oil change2.jpg


Spirit III rider!
 
There was another modification I made that I'll mention just in case it might be as useful to someone else as it was for me. On my project, mounting the fuel tank higher than the carb was not an option. There are two routes to go about mounting the tank low, your genuine Honda engine probably has a fuel pump mounted on the engine block, which is the cure-all for it (and if you mount the tank higher than the engine, like on the frame like a motorcycle, you should probably not use that at all, just take it off- the needle valves in those don't like pressure, they like gravity to feed them), but my Huasheng didn't come with such luxury options equipped. So I adapted a 15mm rotary valve ("squishy bulb") Walbro clone and it's manifold that originally came on a 50cc 2 stroke Shindaiwa clone, those red ones that come on the cheap gopeds, to my intake port. I made my own custom oversize gaskets, and I had to widen the bolt holes on the manifold, and connect the crankcase breather hose to the new airbox, that was easy enough, although the arrangement was such that the whole intake assembly went on sort of twisted 10 or 15 degrees off to one side, like it or not, which looked a bit strange, but didn't hurt anything. Interestingly enough, that worked just fine without any pulse from the crankcase connected to "pump" it. And it wasn't picky about where the tank was, I tested it with the tank unmounted and sitting on the ground with a long hose, and it sucked it right in. I loved that carb, it was easy to understand and work, and adjusted nicely from way too rich to way too lean, with lots of room to spare both ways. I put a velocity stack on it, and the nice, round airbox that came with that hid the crooked intake so it didn't show. I just had to have the velocity stack, it went with the project.
I bring this up, because you should be aware that you might have a lean mixture issue. Your engine wasn't intended for your use, the way Huashengs are (lets face it, the do it yourself motorized bicycle community is Huashengs only profitable market). I noticed another difference, GX50's need a $100 adapter to mount a centrifugal clutch to it like I did, my Huasheng had that integrated into the casing. It was pretty clear that Huasheng had you in mind, and made changes to make your life a lot easier if you chose one of their clones instead of a "real" Honda. Honda tuned the jetting on that carb with the expectation that it would be forever enslaved by an extremely predictable and undemanding centrifugal throttle governor, and those original Honda carbs are known to run lean once freed from their bondage. It was meant to be as fuel efficient as possible, and that governor never makes any sudden, or big changes to the throttle like you will when you use it. Others have replaced that one with a Huasheng carb, because they are, in fact, jetted richer than the Honda's, for this very reason. I gave mine to someone who had that issue with their Honda running too lean, and it cured it right up. I didn't need it anymore. The squishy bulb conversion, though, in my opinion, was the ultimate cure, it really, really, liked that carb.
And I replaced the cam with a reprofiled original Honda cam. I noticed that the Honda cam has a neat centrifugal compression release for easier starting (not that it was actually any easier to start with it, it always started with one pull as long as you close the choke first, and open it with your other hand as you run out of recoil cord- it liked that squishy bulb!) that the Huasheng cam had the hollowed out space to make room for, but only had a flat washer covering it up. It makes a ticking noise when you pull the recoil to let you know it's doing it's thing. Well if you actually read all the way through that, at least you won't be too surprised if it runs a bit lean for no seeable good reason. The Huasheng clone carbs go for about $25, and that is the best cure for that, if it's an issue for you. Except for the jets inside, they are identical to the Honda's in every other way (so be careful not to mix them up while you change them, if you do), no surprises, there.
 
Good post! It may be one I'll have to revisit after I get my motor mounted and see what I've got. My motor has its gas tank at the top of the motor so it appears to me that it is a gravity feed system. I checked out the tank real good while I had it off to check and adjust the valves as suggested in an earlier post. Turns out the valves were a little tight so I opened them up back to spec. Got my bike back from the bike shop and still have a little play in the pedal axle assembly I'll need to deal with. My free time for the next few days will be spent setting up the motor mount. Still need to order a twist grip throttle with matching handle for left side. Came with a lever style but don't think I'll like it. Rode to many motorcycles. Need to get a mirror too. I've got a helmet mount mirror but I've driven too many miles with traditional motorcycle mirrors to want to use a helmet mount. Wouldn't mind a Bluetooth wireless camera transmitting to my IPhone 6+ sitting on top of my steering stem. Might look into that. Thanks for the info.
 
If your fuel lines route through that round thing I tried to color green, that's the fuel pump, I think. I don't have one (and it's not the best picture), but I'm pretty sure that's it.

GXH50_zpspvdxnuju.jpg
 
Fuel line comes right out of bottom left front corner of top mounted gas tank straight above the carburetor and has a small 3 to 4 inch gas line connected straight to the carburetor. Wish it did have an electro/mechanical fuel pump so I could mount a tank somewhere else lower.
 
It's not elctro-mechanical, it's a diaphragm pump driven by a hose that connects to the crankcase vent so it gets a pressure pulse from the crankcase. It doubles as the crankcase vent and filter. Without it, like mine, the crankcase vent hose is probably connected to the airbox to use that filter. There are filters you can just stick on the end of the hose, too. Without the pump, that hose has to go somewhere. The crankcase vent hole should have a hose stuck in it, it's just below the carb. The fuel pump would be bolted to the case just below the vent hole, near the bottom of the case. In the picture, I have my stupid ****ty (that died, and is not replaceable so I have to buy another engine because of it- I have the Huasheng 144F 53cc engine with the 14v, 7A stator, the only one with a CDI box, instead of a magneto type coil) CDI box is attached where the fuel pump would have been, so you can't see it. I had a bad feeling that CDI box wss going to be trouble.

And again, your other option to mount a tank elsewhere (you can buy that pump from Honda) would be to adapt one of those rotary valve diaphragm Walbro (or a clone thereof- use the 15mm, the 10 and 12 are too small) "squishy bulb" carbs, like I did. I got mine from another engine, so I had the manifold, too. Those are either plastic or aluminum. This is what mine looked like before I put the velocity stack and it's airbox on.

DSCN2432_zpsb42b063d.jpg


It shows that crankcase ventilation hose, that I had to do something creative with. I drilled a hole into the airbox, past the air filter, and put in a hose fitting that I could stick the hose on. It just has to be open to a clean air source, with some kind of filter to keep grit out of the crankcase. On original GXH50's, that is done by the fuel pump. That pump, btw will have 3 hose connections, inlet, outlet, and crankcase pulse to drive the diaphragm.

maybe if I get bored (it's not there is anything worth watching on tv anymore these days) I'll elaborate on the story of this engine, and it's charging system, since I am the only person who ever got it to work, which was an ordeal of it's own, which has me hopelessly locked into this engine, now. What a huge pain in the ass.

The so called charging system on this engine, which is the only feature that makes this engine unique (as well as $100 more expensive) is extremely unusual. It's a 14vac, 7A stator (or "half a stator", as I refer to it), as opposed to a conventional stator which produces 28vac, and uses a half wave, single diode rectifier circuit like a voltage divider, to create pulsed 14vdc at 50% duty cycle. That means that it needs a very special full wave regulator-rectifier (that it didn't come with for reasons that are obvious, now, in hindsight, they didn't know where to get one, either, I think) that was very hard to find. There are only 2 different kinds of them made, anywhere, and only one of them will work on this engine. And wouldn't you know it, it had to be the $50, 150 watt one, I burned up 2 of the $8, 100 watt ones, and even tried to use a separate charge controller and full wave bridge rectifier, before I gave in and bought the $50 one, which worked wonderfully until my CDI box took a **** on me one morning for no diagnosable reason. But I really liked that charging system, that didn't need a battery to run the lights. And it was soooo much ******** to get working, I just can't bring myself to take that many steps backwards, you know? And thank goodness I got me degree in automechanics, so I actually have the book knowledge that to took to figure out wtf was up with this engine in the first place. Like I said, as far as I know, nobody else ever got it to work, at least not before I did, and posted the way to do it so that hopefully, nobody else would have to go through what I had to to do it. A wise friend of mine once told me "to go only 9 10ths of all the way, is to suffer at each of those 9 steps, utter madness", so true. And here is what I say:

"If you set a man a fire, you'll keep him warm for a night, but if you set a man ON fire, you'll keep him warm for the rest of his life!" and that is also very true. But then again, I'm as crazy as they come, so what do I know, anyway?
 
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How do you like that 144F-D1 engine Mantis?

The 142FA-2 back rack mount version has a special carb with a primer button for a tank lower than the carb.

014.jpg


That should do the trick.
 
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