Huasheng 4 stroke shakes and wont take off

I don't know why they sell those with a 3:1 box, they're useless on an adult-size bike. You'd need a 16- or 20-inch wheel to make that work. You'd end up with one hell of a goofy bike. Better to swap the gearbox. If you want one that won't blow up, get a Grubee belt drive. You'll end up with a bike that accelerates from a stop, will climb hills and tops out around 30-35 mph.
 
so which grubee belt drive do I get for my motor tho
 

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They make a 1a and 1b

Another guy claimed that the 1a is for the flats and 1b for the hills
 
They make a 1a and 1b

Another guy claimed that the 1a is for the flats and 1b for the hills
I am the other guy. The 1a has a 20t to 80t driver and driven pulley. The 1b has a 20t to 100t driver to driven pulley. Both offer a 9 and 10 tooth output option.
The 1a with its 4:1 reduction, 9t output and a 44t sprocket gives a 19.556:1 reduction. The 1a with a 10t output on a 44t wheel sprocket gives a 17.6:1 gear ratio.
On the other hand, a 1:b with the same 44t rear sprocket gives the 20-100 1b with the 9-44 setup a 24.444:1 reduction and the 10t gives a 22:1 reduction.
Adjust the rear sprocket as needed.
 
Hay Dan, Ask him if he lives in the flat lands or the hills. Does he want to go fast or just cruise along. Then tell him what you would do. I'll bet their ain't a swingin dick on here that depends on their bike more than you do. If I didn't know which trans. to chose I'd get lost like a mother f***er in all that ratio talk. And yes I may have had a beer or two.
 
my s**ts a Chinese knockoff of a hs.....so I have a 4 shoe clutch that wint fit a grubee
 
The huasheng 142f is a chinese knockoff of the honda gxh-50. The best clutch for the tapered shaft hs 142f is the staton-inc clutch, fits 78mm bells just fine. Your clutch, if attached to the shaft, should be 76mm and fit most 78mm bell transfer cases no problem.
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The 1a is for flats and the 1b is for hills. The 10t output give higher speed and less pulling power over the 9t. With gear reduction: the higher the reduction, the higher the torque multiplier to the rear wheel. You get less speed, but take off quicker and yank hills better. Going below 20:1 makes takeoff slow imo, even if on flats. If you want to cruise slow, stay above your clutch lockup speed.
 
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I always peddle when starting off even if it's only a couple of revolutions. Less stress on the bike and with FD it keeps the roller moving on a moving tire instead of wearing a flat spot on the tire which is possible.
 
I find myself pedaling more if I'm at a stop light when it turns green with other cars next to me, it's a race across the intersection, and they don't know it.
 
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