Huasheng F142 Owner's Manual (get yours here)

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Max-M, Mar 28, 2012.

  1. Max-M

    Max-M Member

    I never got an engine owner's manual for my Huasheng F142 when I bought my bike motorizing kit, so I've used the Honda GXH50 manual (the F142 engine is a near-duplicate of the Honda engine). But I learned that there are some differences between the two engines, so I sought out Huasheng on the import-sourcing site, As it turns out, their full name is: Shandong Huasheng Zhongtian Engineering Machinery Co., Ltd. I requested a manual from them, and they quickly emailed one to me. It's not as detailed as the Honda manual, and it has no graphics, but I'm glad to have the proper manual for my engine.

    Here's the PDF of the Huasheng manual:

    Attached Files:

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Looks like something is missing, it's only 82.4 kb

    I see it's only a instruction manual.
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2012
  3. Max-M

    Max-M Member

    Yep, Ron: just an instruction manual. And it looks like a lot of its text was copied from the Honda manual.

    But I revisited the entry for the F142 again today, and it's actually more informative than the manual. Here's a link to the entry:
  4. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    HS 142F and HS 144F performance basics:

    Set your valve rockers to .04mm for the intake, and .06mm for the exhaust.
    Swap the stock plug for an NGK 7544 (CR7HIX) Iridium spark plug.
    Swap out the restrictive box exhaust for a freer flowing 4-stroke exhaust.

    Standard procedure here that really makes a difference.
  5. The_Aleman

    The_Aleman Active Member

    This is bad information! Setting the valves to these values will result in performance loss when engine is warmed up because the valves won't seal.

    0.004" (0.1MM) for the intake and 0.006" (0.15MM) exhaust are what I recommend. Valve adjustment procedure here:
  6. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    And once again we differ Ale Man.
    I like the valves as far open as they can get, for as long as they can, for a bigger transfer port when they do their job in the cycle.

    The wider the rocker arm gap, the less open the valves get, and the shorter time they are open.
    I run on the performance edge and found it.

    Better compression and spark with the longer NGK plug, and better valve timing and openings to move the intake and exhaust gasses in and out is awesome.
    I know this from actual hands on testing with dozens of HS 4-stroke build.

    "performance loss when engine is warmed up because the valves won't seal."
    Total crock of fact-less claim.

    You are really starting to look like the spiteful 'BAD ADVICE' **** here Aleman, maybe try not drinking so much Ale before you go on your spiteful 'kid like' attacks on others here just to help others?

    Or gee, maybe take the advice and try it yourself before you slam it?
    Maybe you'll even learn a couple things from someone that actually works with these things every day.
  7. darwin

    darwin Well-Known Member

    Yo KC, notice the date of the OP?
  8. The_Aleman

    The_Aleman Active Member

    0.0016" (0.04MM) for the intake? No. 0.0023" (0.06MM) for the exhaust? Definitely no. Setting the valves to the numbers you posted results in performance loss after warmup.

    The average sheet of paper is 0.0035" thick, you're adjusting valves cold to less than that? You bumped your head.

    Tell me how you adjusted "valve timing". Did you advance or retard the camshaft? Valve lash/adjustment ≠ valve timing. :rolleyes7:

    If the valves do not seal, maximum compression will not be attained. If valves are set to the numbers you posted, they won't seal when engine is at operating temperature.

    The same thing could be said about your claim. Before I wrote up a valve adjustment procedure, I tested everything between 0.001" and 0.010".
    0.003" on the exhaust starts to adversely affect performance - it's right on the borderline of too tight when engine is warmed up.

    You assume I was drinking because of my s/n? That's pretty shallow of you. I hear you're quite the boozer tho. That must be why you screw up a lot of small, easy details.
    a FYI: "Aleman" is a portmanteau of my first and last name. It's also Spanish for German. My first language was Spanish and my ancestors were Alemannic German.

    And I'm kid-like? Please. I remember countless posts of yours where you screwed up simple details, and you still do it. You're the most over-rated "builder" on this forum.

    You're a mediocre assembler at best, IMHO. I feel sorry for your customers. I wouldn't trust you to adjust brakes, let alone adjust an engine's valves.

    I've tried everything from 0.0015 to 0.010" on intake and exhaust. I've had my Huasheng for 5 years and am at ~9800 miles on my engine. I adjust valves every oil change.
    I've done a few dozen valve adjustments on car and truck engines, as well, over the last 25 years. My last 3 cars have had mechanical lifters, and I've owned aircooled VW.

    You think because you've assembled a bunch of motorized bicycles that it excludes you from being an ultracrepidarian? You amuse me.
    MotorBicycleRacing likes this.
  9. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    Honda GHX 50 recommends:

    IN: 0.08 +- 0.02 mm = 0.06 to 0.1 mm
    EX: 0.11 +- 0.02 mm = 0.09 to 0.13 mm

    I'll go with the Honda specs over yours.
  10. skyash

    skyash Active Member

    I just got one but it will not fit eny bike I have what's the go???
  11. KCvale

    KCvale Motorized Bicycle Vendor

    Yes, I clicked the link from the sticky 4-stroke Manuals Topic

    For this HS 142 manual their was nothing about the valves for the 142 in the manual or the topic so I added to it.

    Ya, maybe a little wider gap would be better, .08mm in and .10mm out sounds nice, but always adjusted once it's warmed up ~5 minuets to seat the seat the valves, rockers and push rods.

    All I know is I haven't seen 'slow valve closure' from these settings, but I live live where it's hot and things move easy.

    Thanks for the tip though.
    The Bottom Line goal however remains the same:

    Both valves need to close tight for the Compression/Fire cycle.

    Then, each valve opens as wide and for as long as it can for the Exhaust/Intake cycle from a different lobe on the cam shaft.
    The 2 rocker arms open space size (gap) determine when, for how long, and how wide the ports open.

    The logic for delaying the intake and exhaust ports actual size and duration buy a bigger gap because the valves won't close fast enough, which would be the only purpose, is just, well, let's just say silly.

    With regular oil changes and using good oil you should never see 'slow valves' but if you do just give the intake rocker arm gap another .01mm to the gap to give the exhaust a bit longer before the intake cycle starts, and then close earlier to seat before the compression cycle.

    Regardless, the bigger the rocker arm gap, the less effect the engine is, period.
    Like in a 2-stroke where the bigger the port and timing makes a difference that is important, it's the same thing you do here but with with actual port valves with adjustments that are easy to do with a little open end and alen wrenchs.

    To Ale Man...
    Follow me around and slam me all you want, I only come around to help where I can and brag about any cool builds I have done, not take your 'king of the forum' or whatever your childish status goal is.

    Really man, maybe try just building a bunch of cool bikes and coming up with new parts and ways to do things with your time?
    I know who I am and what I bring to share when I have time.

    Maybe it's just me, but all I see lately from you is a vindictive bully.
    Bully on Ale Man, hope it makes you feel more manly in your own eyes here.
  12. skyash

    skyash Active Member

    I got it on a beach cruise but the pedals hit so iam cuting them down and wider. And to line up with back sprocket is a pain the Mount is so bad to work with enyone have same problem??
  13. The_Aleman

    The_Aleman Active Member

    Then you're doing it wrong. Aircooled engine operating temperature is related to ambient air temperature, this is why their valves are adjusted COLD with proper gap.
    If you adjust them tight when they are at a certain temperature, they will be too tight when it's hotter. Operating temperature varies quite a bit on aircooled engines.

    You're doing logic wrong. No surprise.

    I'm just correcting your bad information. I don't like BS, it puts me in a highly pedantic mood. Keep up your rank speculation regarding my "goals" tho, it's really funny.

    Now you're trying to give me life advice? Heh. I created parts for these before you even joined the forum, and you have no say whatsoever in what I do with my time - get real.

    I know who you are, too, and when you share, you open yourself up to criticism. DEAL WITH IT.

    Open your eyes wider, perhaps. Or don't, I don't care. I'm not a "vindictive bully", I'm just a stickler for details. If you don't know the difference, now you know.

    Calling me names because you don't have a proper retort doesn't make me the bad guy, but it sure gets me feeling like one :evilgrin:
    MotorBicycleRacing likes this.
  14. MotorBicycleRacing

    MotorBicycleRacing Well-Known Member

    Like the Aleman says, ADJUST VALVES COLD just like the Honda manual says.
  15. skyash

    skyash Active Member

    What sprocket are you people running on a 26inc wheel I got my kit all together but it takes off slow once I get up to 40 kmh I can feel the power kick in and it takes off but it's new so don't want to push it I got a 44 tooth on a 26inc wheel I think it needs a 52 or 56 what ever it is???