Huasheng F142 Owner's Manual (get yours here)

Max-M

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Sep 22, 2011
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I never got an engine owner's manual for my Huasheng F142 when I bought my bike motorizing kit, so I've used the Honda GXH50 manual (the F142 engine is a near-duplicate of the Honda engine). But I learned that there are some differences between the two engines, so I sought out Huasheng on the import-sourcing site, Alibaba.com. As it turns out, their full name is: Shandong Huasheng Zhongtian Engineering Machinery Co., Ltd. I requested a manual from them, and they quickly emailed one to me. It's not as detailed as the Honda manual, and it has no graphics, but I'm glad to have the proper manual for my engine.

Here's the PDF of the Huasheng manual:
 

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Al.Fisherman

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Looks like something is missing, it's only 82.4 kb

I see it's only a instruction manual.
 
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Max-M

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Yep, Ron: just an instruction manual. And it looks like a lot of its text was copied from the Honda manual.

But I revisited the Alibaba.com entry for the F142 again today, and it's actually more informative than the manual. Here's a link to the entry: http://tinyurl.com/huasheng
 

KCvale

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HS 142F and HS 144F performance basics:

Set your valve rockers to .04mm for the intake, and .06mm for the exhaust.
Swap the stock plug for an NGK 7544 (CR7HIX) Iridium spark plug.
Swap out the restrictive box exhaust for a freer flowing 4-stroke exhaust.

Standard procedure here that really makes a difference.
 

The_Aleman

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KCvale

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This is bad information! Setting the valves to these values will result in performance loss when engine is warmed up because the valves won't seal.

0.004" (0.1MM) for the intake and 0.006" (0.15MM) exhaust are what I recommend. Valve adjustment procedure here:
link: https://motoredbikes.com/threads/how-to-adjust-your-gxh50-huasheng-titan-valves.38514/
And once again we differ Ale Man.
I like the valves as far open as they can get, for as long as they can, for a bigger transfer port when they do their job in the cycle.

The wider the rocker arm gap, the less open the valves get, and the shorter time they are open.
I run on the performance edge and found it.

Better compression and spark with the longer NGK plug, and better valve timing and openings to move the intake and exhaust gasses in and out is awesome.
I know this from actual hands on testing with dozens of HS 4-stroke build.

"performance loss when engine is warmed up because the valves won't seal."
Total crock of fact-less claim.

You are really starting to look like the spiteful 'BAD ADVICE' **** here Aleman, maybe try not drinking so much Ale before you go on your spiteful 'kid like' attacks on others here just to help others?

Or gee, maybe take the advice and try it yourself before you slam it?
Maybe you'll even learn a couple things from someone that actually works with these things every day.
 

The_Aleman

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The wider the rocker arm gap, the less open the valves get, and the shorter time they are open.
I run on the performance edge and found it.
0.0016" (0.04MM) for the intake? No. 0.0023" (0.06MM) for the exhaust? Definitely no. Setting the valves to the numbers you posted results in performance loss after warmup.

The average sheet of paper is 0.0035" thick, you're adjusting valves cold to less than that? You bumped your head.

Better compression and spark with the longer NGK plug, and better valve timing and openings to move the intake and exhaust gasses in and out is awesome.
I know this from actual hands on testing with dozens of HS 4-stroke build.
Tell me how you adjusted "valve timing". Did you advance or retard the camshaft? Valve lash/adjustment ≠ valve timing. :rolleyes:

If the valves do not seal, maximum compression will not be attained. If valves are set to the numbers you posted, they won't seal when engine is at operating temperature.

"performance loss when engine is warmed up because the valves won't seal."
Total crock of fact-less claim.
The same thing could be said about your claim. Before I wrote up a valve adjustment procedure, I tested everything between 0.001" and 0.010".
0.003" on the exhaust starts to adversely affect performance - it's right on the borderline of too tight when engine is warmed up.

You are really starting to look like the spiteful 'BAD ADVICE' **** here Aleman, maybe try not drinking so much Ale before you go on your spiteful 'kid like' attacks on others here just to help others?
You assume I was drinking because of my s/n? That's pretty shallow of you. I hear you're quite the boozer tho. That must be why you screw up a lot of small, easy details.
a FYI: "Aleman" is a portmanteau of my first and last name. It's also Spanish for German. My first language was Spanish and my ancestors were Alemannic German.

And I'm kid-like? Please. I remember countless posts of yours where you screwed up simple details, and you still do it. You're the most over-rated "builder" on this forum.

You're a mediocre assembler at best, IMHO. I feel sorry for your customers. I wouldn't trust you to adjust brakes, let alone adjust an engine's valves.

Or gee, maybe take the advice and try it yourself before you slam it?
Maybe you'll even learn a couple things from someone that actually works with these things every day.
I've tried everything from 0.0015 to 0.010" on intake and exhaust. I've had my Huasheng for 5 years and am at ~9800 miles on my engine. I adjust valves every oil change.
I've done a few dozen valve adjustments on car and truck engines, as well, over the last 25 years. My last 3 cars have had mechanical lifters, and I've owned aircooled VW.

You think because you've assembled a bunch of motorized bicycles that it excludes you from being an ultracrepidarian? You amuse me.
 

MotorBicycleRacing

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This is bad information! Setting the valves to these values will result in performance loss when engine is warmed up because the valves won't seal.

0.004" (0.1MM) for the intake and
0.006" (0.15MM) exhaust are what I recommend.
Honda GHX 50 recommends:

IN: 0.08 +- 0.02 mm = 0.06 to 0.1 mm
EX: 0.11 +- 0.02 mm = 0.09 to 0.13 mm

KCvale said:
0.04mm for the intake,
0.06mm for the exhaust
.
I'll go with the Honda specs over yours.

http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/engines/pdf/manuals/37Z4C603.pdf
 
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