Huasheng F142 Owner's Manual (get yours here)

[KCvale]

Yo KC, notice the date of the OP?

Yes, I clicked the link from the sticky 4-stroke Manuals Topic
https://motoredbikes.com/threads/engine-manuals.27040/

For this HS 142 manual their was nothing about the valves for the 142 in the manual or the topic so I added to it.

Honda GHX 50 recommends:

IN: 0.08 +- 0.02 mm = 0.06 to 0.1 mm
EX: 0.11 +- 0.02 mm = 0.09 to 0.13 mm

I'll go with the Honda specs over yours.

Ya, maybe a little wider gap would be better, .08mm in and .10mm out sounds nice, but always adjusted once it's warmed up ~5 minuets to seat the seat the valves, rockers and push rods.

All I know is I haven't seen 'slow valve closure' from these settings, but I live live where it's hot and things move easy.

Thanks for the tip though.
The Bottom Line goal however remains the same:

Both valves need to close tight for the Compression/Fire cycle.

Then, each valve opens as wide and for as long as it can for the Exhaust/Intake cycle from a different lobe on the cam shaft.
The 2 rocker arms open space size (gap) determine when, for how long, and how wide the ports open.

The logic for delaying the intake and exhaust ports actual size and duration buy a bigger gap because the valves won't close fast enough, which would be the only purpose, is just, well, let's just say silly.

With regular oil changes and using good oil you should never see 'slow valves' but if you do just give the intake rocker arm gap another .01mm to the gap to give the exhaust a bit longer before the intake cycle starts, and then close earlier to seat before the compression cycle.

Regardless, the bigger the rocker arm gap, the less effect the engine is, period.
Like in a 2-stroke where the bigger the port and timing makes a difference that is important, it's the same thing you do here but with with actual port valves with adjustments that are easy to do with a little open end and alen wrenchs.

To Ale Man...
Follow me around and slam me all you want, I only come around to help where I can and brag about any cool builds I have done, not take your 'king of the forum' or whatever your childish status goal is.

Really man, maybe try just building a bunch of cool bikes and coming up with new parts and ways to do things with your time?
I know who I am and what I bring to share when I have time.

Maybe it's just me, but all I see lately from you is a vindictive bully.
Bully on Ale Man, hope it makes you feel more manly in your own eyes here.

 

[skyash]

I got it on a beach cruise but the pedals hit so iam cuting them down and wider. And to line up with back sprocket is a pain the Mount is so bad to work with enyone have same problem??

 

[The_Aleman]

Ya, maybe a little wider gap would be better, .08mm in and .10mm out sounds nice, but always adjusted once it's warmed up ~5 minuets to seat the seat the valves, rockers and push rods.

Then you're doing it wrong. Aircooled engine operating temperature is related to ambient air temperature, this is why their valves are adjusted COLD with proper gap.
If you adjust them tight when they are at a certain temperature, they will be too tight when it's hotter. Operating temperature varies quite a bit on aircooled engines.

The logic

You're doing logic wrong. No surprise.

To Ale Man...
Follow me around and slam me all you want, I only come around to help where I can and brag about any cool builds I have done, not take your 'king of the forum' or whatever your childish status goal is.

I'm just correcting your bad information. I don't like BS, it puts me in a highly pedantic mood. Keep up your rank speculation regarding my "goals" tho, it's really funny.

Really man, maybe try just building a bunch of cool bikes and coming up with new parts and ways to do things with your time?

Now you're trying to give me life advice? Heh. I created parts for these before you even joined the forum, and you have no say whatsoever in what I do with my time - get real.

I know who I am and what I bring to share when I have time.

I know who you are, too, and when you share, you open yourself up to criticism. DEAL WITH IT.

Maybe it's just me, but all I see lately from you is a vindictive bully.
Bully on Ale Man, hope it makes you feel more manly in your own eyes here.

Open your eyes wider, perhaps. Or don't, I don't care. I'm not a "vindictive bully", I'm just a stickler for details. If you don't know the difference, now you know.

Calling me names because you don't have a proper retort doesn't make me the bad guy, but it sure gets me feeling like one

 

[MotorBicycleRacing]

Ya, maybe a little wider gap would be better, .08mm in and .10mm out sounds nice, but always adjusted once it's warmed up ~5 minuets to seat the seat the valves, rockers and push rods.

Like the Aleman says, ADJUST VALVES COLD just like the Honda manual says.

 

[skyash]

What sprocket are you people running on a 26inc wheel I got my kit all together but it takes off slow once I get up to 40 kmh I can feel the power kick in and it takes off but it's new so don't want to push it I got a 44 tooth on a 26inc wheel I think it needs a 52 or 56 what ever it is???

 

[Scruffythejanitor]

my pushrod came loose the other day and the intake got stuck open a bit. i fixed it and adjusted the valves and it still doesnt want to run. these wouldnt happen to be interference motors would they? im hoping the intake valve isnt bent

 

[Acid1054]

Yes, I clicked the link from the sticky 4-stroke Manuals Topic
https://motoredbikes.com/threads/engine-manuals.27040/

For this HS 142 manual their was nothing about the valves for the 142 in the manual or the topic so I added to it.


Ya, maybe a little wider gap would be better, .08mm in and .10mm out sounds nice, but always adjusted once it's warmed up ~5 minuets to seat the seat the valves, rockers and push rods.

All I know is I haven't seen 'slow valve closure' from these settings, but I live live where it's hot and things move easy.

Thanks for the tip though.
The Bottom Line goal however remains the same:

Both valves need to close tight for the Compression/Fire cycle.

Then, each valve opens as wide and for as long as it can for the Exhaust/Intake cycle from a different lobe on the cam shaft.
The 2 rocker arms open space size (gap) determine when, for how long, and how wide the ports open.

The logic for delaying the intake and exhaust ports actual size and duration buy a bigger gap because the valves won't close fast enough, which would be the only purpose, is just, well, let's just say silly.

With regular oil changes and using good oil you should never see 'slow valves' but if you do just give the intake rocker arm gap another .01mm to the gap to give the exhaust a bit longer before the intake cycle starts, and then close earlier to seat before the compression cycle.

Regardless, the bigger the rocker arm gap, the less effect the engine is, period.
Like in a 2-stroke where the bigger the port and timing makes a difference that is important, it's the same thing you do here but with with actual port valves with adjustments that are easy to do with a little open end and alen wrenchs.

To Ale Man...
Follow me around and slam me all you want, I only come around to help where I can and brag about any cool builds I have done, not take your 'king of the forum' or whatever your childish status goal is.

Really man, maybe try just building a bunch of cool bikes and coming up with new parts and ways to do things with your time?
I know who I am and what I bring to share when I have time.

Maybe it's just me, but all I see lately from you is a vindictive bully.
Bully on Ale Man, hope it makes you feel more manly in your own eyes here.

I have the belt drive 49cc engine I spun the timing gear and have a replacement but I'm not sure where the spacer goes and the new gear is a tight fit to the crank gear any help please ! thanks. .
drvspce1

 

[darwin]

I always adjusted my 142fs at .04 and .06 and they ran fine. It seemed that was the recommended spacing by a lot of folks on here over the years. I wonder how much better they would have run at the honda specs, .08 and .11. That's definitely a difference in valve timing, it's either going to be better or worse in the way it runs. Damn shame I might never know now that I have no gas bikes. People let US know the difference in performance please.