Huasheng Upgrade Clutch.

So this is a case of the clutch changing the whole feel/function of the bike. After about a 6mi test ride I have a choice
to make.
The clutch has made the engine so smooth that it revs higher with out vibes. It used to buzz the tank just below 6000.
Thats gone, you are not really aware you are revving it close to redline. With the 4000 engagement it gets the bike moving quicker because its in the torque zone and on to revving to its hp peak. In short its quicker. Realize this is a start from still pedal less shifter bike. Its pretty quick off the line with this clutch. The ratios are so nicely spaced it hits the next gear at the right point. I was speed shifting and redlining all the shifts. Being a real 50cc hoodlum. Not what I think i need to do to make this bike last. Other negative is clutch drop out when cruising.

So in conclusion this is a great clutch, especially on a single speed where you are cruising well above drop out. It is well made, but not serviceable. However it looks like it will last a good while. Will run it awhile any way, and just may stay with. The smoothness would be hard to give up!
I was thinking a weaker spring would get the engagement point down to a lower rpm, but running it for awhile will weaken the spring anyway.

If a guy had a spare spring to stretch out, might be a good experiment. I wouldn't us OE one until you knew for sure it would lower the rpm on take off.
 
Im thinking I will do a similar spreading of the springs coils in places around the spring trying to keep it even. If It would come down a few hundred rpms it would be perfect.

I have lost or thrown out my r/c prop balancer. Think I will get another. The original clutch shows to be out of balance with a crude rig I made to check it. Balancing it may help greatly with the vibes in case the 4 shoe doesnt respond the the spring mod.
 
Im thinking I will do a similar spreading of the springs coils in places around the spring trying to keep it even. If It would come down a few hundred rpms it would be perfect.

I have lost or thrown out my r/c prop balancer. Think I will get another. The original clutch shows to be out of balance with a crude rig I made to check it. Balancing it may help greatly with the vibes in case the 4 shoe doesnt respond the the spring mod.
How close would a comet 30 series garter spring be, to working on your 4 shoe clutch?
 
I dont think the clutch can be disassembled for something like a spring change. Looks to me like its assembled then the outer plates are riveted together. Gapping the spring seems the only option.

I found a balancer and balanced the clutch. It was way heavy on one shoe and a bit on another. Stays in any position now. Will try the gapping on the 4shoe, then running the balanced stock clutch.

Stay tuned.
 

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Wow! The balanced HS clutch is now super smooth, revs to redline with no tank buzzing, about 95% smoother than it was! And was so easy to do. The 4 shoe might be a tad smoother, just due to the damping effect of the increased weight, but it might not be either. Its that close.

Will try to gap the coil spring on the 4 shoe to see if it will engage earlier, but as of now Im favoring the stock balanced clutch.

Now that I have seen how much a simple static balance with a prop balancer can make, think I will buy a bike/ MC
wheel balancer for $45 and balance anything I have that rolls or turns!
 
Gapped the the spring, was easy to do with the small screwdriver. That has to make some difference, more can be added as long as the pattern is symmetrical or close to it.

Will try tommorrow.
 

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Just ran the sprung 4 shoe. I come from the school of “if some is good, more is better”. So I added slightly smaller tweaks about every 5 coils so as to lessen the load on the original 4 wider tweaks, spreads the load among them all theoretically.
Results were excellent, at least for my tastes. Begins to engage around 27-2800 all in by33-3400. Its nice to have some
engine braking now at a lower speed by keeping the revs in the low 3ks.

If you want a performance oriented ride, leave the clutch alone, the 4k engagement makes a quicker bike. Also if one goes this route, proceed more slowly with the tweaks and you can tune it as you want it.

Im pleased, and think the clutch is a great upgrade. BGF on ebay has the best price.
 
IDK if anyone is still following this thread, but I sheared the rivets that cannonball mentioned. I never figured out what caused that. If it was mfr defect or OOE (owner/operator error). Just wanted to put it out there that this can happen.
And how is it that everybody is having so much success with the belt drive? It's given me nothing but trouble. Snapped the first one I had in half. Had a casting flaw in the chinesium. And the replacement I bought wore out the rear bearing seats in a couple hundred miles. Not to mention the oilite (not oilite) bushing. I rebuilt my old tapered shaft with a dbl roller chain. Noisy, but reliable.
 
IDK if anyone is still following this thread, but I sheared the rivets that cannonball mentioned. I never figured out what caused that. If it was mfr defect or OOE (owner/operator error). Just wanted to put it out there that this can happen.
And how is it that everybody is having so much success with the belt drive? It's given me nothing but trouble. Snapped the first one I had in half. Had a casting flaw in the chinesium. And the replacement I bought wore out the rear bearing seats in a couple hundred miles. Not to mention the oilite (not oilite) bushing. I rebuilt my old tapered shaft with a dbl roller chain. Noisy, but reliable.
The Grubee belt drive is the best I've found for the huasheng. It's got bearings in it.
 
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