Hub vs mid drive?

750 watt motor is enough, 1hp. Anything bigger is a waste and eats up your battery too fast. You want to race then go for it. Most users will be a happy camper at 750 watts. Anything under 500 is too weak for hills in my opinion so there's the sweet spot. Especially if you weigh over 200lbs.
 
750 watt motor is enough, 1hp. Anything bigger is a waste and eats up your battery too fast. You want to race then go for it. Most users will be a happy camper at 750 watts. Anything under 500 is too weak for hills in my opinion so there's the sweet spot. Especially if you weigh over 200lbs.
Does it really? Wattage ratings are kinda fuzzy, nominal should be continuous output wattage but you can push 750 watts into a lower rated motor but not for long.
The watts used should have more to do with the work done not just the rated wattage.
I get the extra mass and hysteresis losses of a bigger motor but if you over work a small motor it heats up and resistance increases leading to more electricity going to heat waste.
I don't doubt that 750 is a sweet spot for normal loads I just don't agree that a1500 watt motor will burn more battery than a 750 watt if they are doing the same work.
 
An electric motor is most efficient when operating at the upper end of its capacity. If running 600W, a 750W motor will be more efficient at 70-80% of its max, than a 1500 running below 50% of its max.

If you really wanna go 45mph some day, maybe. I have yet to find my top speed on my 3x7 geared etrike, 33mph at 4” off pavement is already white-knuckling for me. I am fearful to set it above speed mode 3.
(I need a 3x7 hub on my motorbike, that thing rocks).
 
An electric motor is most efficient when operating at the upper end of its capacity. If running 600W, a 750W motor will be more efficient at 70-80% of its max, than a 1500 running below 50% of its max.

If you really wanna go 45mph some day, maybe. I have yet to find my top speed on my 3x7 geared etrike, 33mph at 4” off pavement is already white-knuckling for me. I am fearful to set it above speed mode 3.
(I need a 3x7 hub on my motorbike, that thing rocks).
You mean like what's on my bike?

20210704_204623.jpg


20210704_205017.jpg


A Staton Inc kit. It gets shifted like this:

Steep hill climbing and heavy load pulling
1(1-3)

Around town general use
2(3-5)

Open road use
3(5-7).
 
You mean like what's on my bike?

View attachment 172522

View attachment 172523

A Staton Inc kit. It gets shifted like this:

Steep hill climbing and heavy load pulling
1(1-3)

Around town general use
2(3-5)

Open road use
3(5-7).
Yeah actually, I hit a wall with a 7speed cluster, and chain line is angled too much for the small cog. A 3x7 hub won’t fix the chainline.

My other option is building a wheel with a SA dual drive, hacking up the cassette, using spacers to make it 6-speed.
I can find the hub, but not a wheel with it.
And no such animal exists for 170mm OLD for fatbike.
 
Yeah actually, I hit a wall with a 7speed cluster, and chain line is angled too much for the small cog. A 3x7 hub won’t fix the chainline.

My other option is building a wheel with a SA dual drive, hacking up the cassette, using spacers to make it 6-speed.
I can find the hub, but not a wheel with it.
And no such animal exists for 170mm OLD for fatbike.
Which I solved the cross chaining issue with my sequential non redundant ratio shifting system. The only time a front chainring is shifted is when in either rear cogs (3) or (5). All shifting is done with the left hand. I also use a color guide

Red_____1(1-3)
Yellow__2(3-5)
Green___3(5-7)

20210704_204946.jpg
 
God created trigger shifters, then there's all the rest. Love trigger shifters. When adjusted to the at rest cog they work flawlessly.
 
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