Wheels Hubs on your rear wheels

R

ROCKET_80

Guest
#1
Hey, has anyone been ahving problems with loosening hubs, and/or having to overhaul them? I have a real cheap-o wheel on right now, and the hub is almost destroyed after only 100K(approx.) Is it just because it's a low-cost steel wheel? does the added vibration and chain tension cause this?
 


N

nogoodnic42

Guest
#2
I also have this problem and I don't know why. The bike that I have the most problems with has a Shimano hub on it so I don't think its a cheap hub problem. I tighten mine on a regular basis and carry a 17mm with me for on the road ajustments. Any sugestions are very welcome...Kelly
 

Joined
Jan 29, 2008
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#3
I don't understand Shimano's popularity. They use an outdated caged bearing design in their hubs. I started using sealed cartridge bearing in the late 80's when I raced bmx and never use loose ball or "sealed" mech bearing on any of my bikes. Road racing bikes and mountain bikes guys are finally catching on that these bearing are waaaaay smoother and reliable and some of the guys are even racing on ceramic cartridge bearing for even more speed(myself included on my road bike). When I started my motored bike project sealed mech hubs that came on the bike was the first thing to go in the garbage. I laced my wheels with a stanton rear hub and a bmx front hub.
Unfortunately if you are using a coaster brake you are S O L . If you are using a freewheel or cassette type hub then you should have no problem finding something that will work. I have personally ridden thousands and thousands of miles on cartridge bearing hubs and have only seen one bearing ever fail and that was after a thousand miles and a thousand jumps.
 
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G

gone_fishin

Guest
#4
i have 1200+ miles on a shimano CB-E110...this hub on a 105g cheapo wheel is a great budget-upgrade, & it's a matter of maintenance. and preference, of course...i like rear-coaster/front-drum a lot!

that's not saying i wouldn't love to have a cartridge-bearin'd rear hub...maybe i can talk sturmey-archer into doing a coaster-drum...that would be really easy to make, actually :)
 


azbill

Active Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2006
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#6
hey louis,
I have the front of that style (XFD) I think Augi does too
I believe he is talking about a redundant brake (drum +coaster) on one hub
 

G

gone_fishin

Guest
#7
woof! doggone i wish i'd researched my rear hub a bit more...oh well, when it wears i know what i'll replace it with. however, it is still "only" a coaster hub, albeit of S-A quality.

and, what i was talking/babbling about was a drum rear same as x-fd, but internally activated by a coaster sprocket.
 

H

Hot Dog Piggy Tails

Guest
#8
Dude Id take 6 RIGHT NOW!!!

Well given they were affordable say 46 like the wholesaler hooks me up at. Oh we have 12 more available next day shipped guaranteed.I work with he Distributer/Wholesaler to keep real stopping power out front affordable as an upgrade with our springers and the back flanges are tempermental. Weld tehm then Cryogenic your lot before you install the press fit Flanged Coaster brakes if you can..Hardens the seat. Check each one for warpage after welding to the spool barrel so to save cryogenic freezing cost.
 

H

Hot Dog Piggy Tails

Guest
#9
tri-radial tack beads performed with low aMperage MIG or TIG.Your local exhaust shop will do a flange tack for the cost of lunch at mcdonalds and you can keep your wheel(s) together! Heh.
 

Esteban

Active Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2006
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#10
Shimano has a name that is always associated with " Quality." BUT,,, they make some cheap stuff too, that nobody talks about.
 

Joined
Jan 6, 2008
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#11
Hey, has anyone been ahving problems with loosening hubs, and/or having to overhaul them? I have a real cheap-o wheel on right now, and the hub is almost destroyed after only 100K(approx.) Is it just because it's a low-cost steel wheel? does the added vibration and chain tension cause this?
One hundred kilometers is only about 60 miles.
I do that in a couple of days.
cruising and enjoying.
Grease em good.
Balance em good, and zip tie your spokes.
I have no local bike shops any more.
Just wally world kmart and target.
I would like try a cartridge bearing.
where to buy them though?
 


H

HoughMade

Guest
#13
The original problem is due to not having the jam nut tightened against the cone correctly. Hard to do without a cone wrench. It is alost impossible to get the jam nut too tight, but without a cone rench, the cone will be over-tightened. Do it right and you will hardly be able to loosen it when you want to and it will not loosen on its own. Don't blame Shimano for improper tightening. Their product is fine when used correctly.

As for tying the spokes, it's supposed to allow the load to be spread to adjoinging spokes. I have not done it, but I have 11 ga spokes (.120).
 

Joined
Apr 24, 2009
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#14
out of curiousity...what does zip tieing the spokes do? i'm assuming you mean zip tieing spokes where two spokes cross each other.
Zip-tied spokes or even wired (wrapped with wire and soldered) wheels were thought to make a wheel more rigid, but in the quintessential wheel building book, The Bicycle Wheel by Jobst Brandt he tested this theory and found that wrapping with wire and solderng the spokes together had no effect. What does make a wheel strong is having spokes that are tensioned properly (high tension and evenly tensioned)
 
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